What are acoustic guitars and how to choose them?

Friendly gatherings, campfire evenings, concerts of musicians of various genres. Acoustic guitar sounds almost everywhere. Having appeared in its current form relatively recently, it managed to become one of those instruments that we hear most often. It is not surprising that even those people who used to be far from music often dare to master the game on it. How to choose your first acoustics, what is the structure of the instrument, what kind of guitars are, how to start playing - we will tell you below.

Let's start by describing the structure of the guitar. It consists of a body, neck and head.

The body is a key component of the guitar, the sound of which directly depends on the design and material. The body itself is structured as follows:

• bottom (back) deck - the reverse side of the instrument;
• the top (top) - the most important part of the body, the element that transmits sound from the strings to the environment;
• bridge (stand) - a plate, usually a wooden one, which stiffens the body;
• shell - the part connecting the decks, the resonator and the conductor that adds volume to the sound;
• voice pick (resonator hole) - a hole in the body, thanks to which the guitar resonates and releases sound from its depths.

The neck is the part of the guitar on which the strings are pulled, the tuning is adjusted and played with the left hand. Combines in itself:

• neck attachment - wooden covering of the working part;
• frets - plates used to separate frets;
• fret markers - markers that make it easier to orientate between the main frets;
• heel - a part connecting the neck to the body, usually located between 12 and 14 frets;
• nut - a plate made of bone or plastic, used to install and fix the strings.

The head is the top of the neck, on which the tuning mechanism is located - a system of gears, fixed on 2 sides of the neck with metal plates, and intended for fastening and tensioning the strings.

The roots of the acoustic guitar stretch back to the 13th century, and already at the beginning of the 14th century, its ancestors became the most popular musical instruments.

The guitar has undergone a lot of changes and began to look familiar to us relatively recently - somewhere in the 19th century.

Let's start our conversation about the acoustic guitar by understanding how it creates sound.

It's all about resonance. The strings of the guitar begin to vibrate when played, the vibrations are transmitted to the body of the instrument, and a sound appears coming out of the hole in the top deck.

It is worth noting that not everything that we used to call an acoustic guitar is one. An acoustic guitar (western guitar, pop guitar) is very similar to a classical (concert) guitar. No wonder. Despite the significant differences, in the eyes of a beginner, the classics and acoustics look almost identical, there is no such noticeable visual difference as with an electric guitar.

The classical guitar appeared first. Its neck is wider than that of the "acoustics", the nut width is about 52 mm. At the same time, the body of the "classics" is smaller. This guitar is used exclusively with nylon strings, its body is not designed to withstand the stress that occurs when playing metal strings. In this regard, the classical guitar requires tuning more often than the "acoustics".

The sound of a classical guitar is softer, more velvety and, importantly, weaker. It was in connection with the latter feature that the acoustic variation appeared - the "classics" were not heard at jazz and blues performances for brass, pianos, etc. The sound of acoustics is brighter, richer. If the "classic" is designed for playing with your fingers, then the "acoustics" is suitable for working with a pick, which opens up scope for a combination of different playing techniques.

If you are choosing your first guitar or instrument for teaching a child, then it is worth looking at classical guitars. - it is physically easier to play on them, it is easier to develop fit and grip. But don't forget the difference in sound. Need tight rhythm and powerful sound - start right away with the acoustic option.

Acoustic and electric guitars differ in almost everything. But the main difference is the principle of sound extraction. If in acoustics the sound of a pinch is amplified by the body of a guitar, in an electric guitar the sound is amplified by a pickup. The body of an electric guitar itself, which does not have a cavity, usually made from a single piece of wood, is not intended to create resonance. When an electric guitar string is struck, the pickup coil catches the vibration. They are converted into an electrical signal and passed first to the amplifier, and then to the speakers.

The instruments are designed for different playing techniques. The aesthetics of their sound differ.

There are several classifications of guitars based on different attributes. Let's go through the main ones.

Body shape is extremely important for a guitar, since it is the body that acts as a resonator that influences the tone of the sound. There are 7 main types worth mentioning:

• dreadnought - one of the most popular formats of the body of acoustic guitars, large, heavy - it gives the guitar a loud, rich, bright sound, with active low frequencies;

• jumbo - the largest of the described bodies, has a rounded shape and a thin "waist", because of its size, it is not suitable for young musicians and people with a miniature physique, has a strong, loud sound;

• concert and grand concert - significantly less jumbo and dreadnought, sounds softer, in the grand concert version - with a shortened scale, sometimes - with a body-neck connection at the 12th fret, suitable for concerts and studio work;

• auditorium (orchestra) and grand auditorium - a little less and quieter dreadnought, grand auditorium a little more than usual, with a brighter sound, both variants have a balanced frequency, universal formats for both solo and group parts;

• parlor - rather miniature guitars with a wide neck, soft timbre, the middle frequencies prevail, and the lows fade into the background;

• folk - small guitars with a narrow neck, comfortable, but quiet, an excellent option for the period of study;

• travel - guitars for travel, the smallest, due to the size of the body, the sound is quite quiet, but this format copes with its intended purpose perfectly.

Separately, it is worth noting that most of these bodies can actually be found in cutaway format - with a neck that has a cutout. This housing facilitates access to the top positions.

No less than the body format, the sound is influenced by the material from which the guitar is made. The best option, of course, is an array guitar - it gives the guitar its deepest, surround sound. Another thing is that such models are more difficult to manufacture and, accordingly, more expensive. Therefore, many acoustic guitars are made from musical plywood, veneer, or laminate. Models with laminated elements are also not without their advantages. They are cheaper, have better resistance to temperature changes.

Returning to the array, it is important to distinguish between hard and soft tools. The first (maple, mahogany, rosewood, koa) are denser and heavier. They are usually used when creating a shell and backboard. Soft species (spruce, cedar) are lighter, more elastic.

Let's go through the main types of wood used in the manufacture of guitars:

• maple - conveys a clean, uncolored sound;
• mahogany (it is also mahogany), from which guitar necks, sides, backs, and sometimes whole guitars are made;
• Rosewood is another popular material for necks, it gives a clear sound, rich overtones;
• koa - a rather rare variant, which gives the guitar a balanced sound with beautiful mids;
• spruce - the most common material for the top, lightweight, durable, perfectly resonant, with a bright sound;
• cedar - brings warmth, depth to the guitar sound, the middle prevails in the timbre.

It is important to pay attention to the neck width, which differs depending on the body format. The average value for this indicator is 43 mm at the nut, the range can vary between 41-48 mm. For playing without a pick, it's best to choose a guitar with a wide neck.

The neck deflection can be adjusted if the model is equipped with a truss rod. This option is indispensable when the guitar is frequently affected by fluctuations in moisture, leading to neck deformation.

And, of course, guitars differ in the number of strings.

• The twelve-string guitar has six pairs of strings. They are most often tuned in octaves, in classical tuning or in unison. Usually the top 2 pairs are in unison, the rest are in an octave. Twelve strings are good for rock, folk or bard song. It's better to play with a pick. Not suitable for beginners.
• The seven-string guitar is a Russian invention that appeared at the end of the 18th century. In the 19th century, thanks to the nomadic gypsies, it came to Brazil, where it took root well. Now the seven-string guitar is rarely used, mainly when playing Russian and Soviet music of the 18th century - the first half of the 20th century.
• The 6-string guitar is the most popular option right now. For the most part, this article will focus on the 6-string variants.
• Bass guitars, tenor guitars are most often equipped with four strings. Also, the ukulele has four strings - a miniature "relative" of the guitar, which has now gained unexpected popularity.

The number of strings on the guitar is not limited by these options. Strings can be added to expand the range, doubled or tripled.

You may be used to seeing simple acoustic guitars, natural wood colors, most often light. So - this is just one of the many options for acoustics design. Guitar can be of almost any color: white (Fender Malibu Player ARG), black (Fender FA-125 Black), purple (Adams W-4101 EP), blue (Fender Redondo Player BLB), red (Flight F-230C WR) and so on. And the appearance of models that retain the color of natural wood may vary significantly due to the types of wood.

The tool can be matte or have a light lacquer sheen. All kinds of stickers, of which there are a great many, will help to add personality to the tool.

When choosing a guitar, the question always arises - which brand to choose. Ibanez, Yamaha, Fender - these names are familiar to music lovers, but when choosing their own first guitar, there is a slight stupor.

Here are some popular models to look at first.

• Epiphone DR-100, Price range - 12-17 thousand rubles, body - dreadnought, neck made of mahogany (mahogany) with rosewood fingerboards, top - spruce, body - mahogany. A quality entry-level instrument, comfortable, reliable, with a well-balanced sound.

• Fender FA-125. Price range - 15-17 thousand rubles, body - dreadnought, neck - mahogany (NATO) with rosewood overlays, top - spruce, body - linden. A six-string guitar that combines beautiful tone and recognizable Fender sophisticated design. Suitable for playing music of almost all genres.

• Yamaha FG800. Price range - 18-22 thousand rubles, body - dreadnought, neck - mahogany (NATO) with rosewood or walnut overlays, top - spruce, back, sides - NATO. Feast and Peace is a best-selling guitar with a rich bass range, suitable for both the studio and live performances. However, the absence of a pickup can play against the performer on the latter.

• Gibson J-200 Standard. Price range - about 300 thousand rubles, body: - dreadnought / jumbo, neck - 2 layers of maple, rosewood fingerboard, top - Sitka spruce, back, sides - maple, electronics - pickup and L. R. Baggs Anthem pre-amplification system. Let's take this model as an example of an elite instrument.

The guitarist's arsenal is not limited to the instrument itself. It also includes a significant number of various accessories, additional parts and necessary spare parts - from spare strings and pads to microphones, stands, timbre blocks and all kinds of cables.

If the case did not come with the guitar, then it should be your second purchase after it. A case is not only a way to protect your guitar from dust and make it easier to carry. This is its protection from the dangerous effects of humidity and temperature changes. Covers are:

• rigid - provide maximum protection against external influences, but have a lot of weight, the best option for transporting a tool;
• semi-rigid - soft cases with a protective lining, lighter than hard ones, good for protecting the guitar in winter;
• soft - the lightest and cheapest cases, protect from dust and direct exposure to sunlight, suitable for storing a guitar at home.

A trifle that protects the guitar from falling and provides the ability to play while standing. When choosing, you should pay attention to the length (the belt should be suitable for your height), width (belts that are too narrow can chafe) and the material. The ideal option is a leather belt, but for the first time a regular synthetic one will do.

Here you need to be as careful and attentive as possible when choosing. And do not be shy when buying picks one at a time - they are lost so often that there should always be a supply.

Picks differ in thickness, material and shape.

Manufacturing materials:

• metal - has a recognizable sound, is rarely used on an ongoing basis;
• tortex - the most common option, the optimal balance between smoothness and roughness, they serve for a long time;
• Darlin - slightly smoother than tortex, flexible, good for fast play;
• nylon is a popular option for playing on acoustics, it is pleasant tactilely, but has one significant drawback - fragility;
• celluloid - the cheapest material of mediators, is quite versatile, but does not last long;
• wood - gives a very interesting sound, but does not last long.

Pick shape:

• standard shape is the most versatile, basic shape to start with;
• triangle - triangular picks, convenient because you can play with either side;
• pointy, jazz, teardrop - variations of teardrop picks that help add brightness and dynamics to the game.

If the prefix sharp is added to the name, it means that the pick has a pointed tip. This option adds brightness, but is not suitable for beginners.

As for the thickness, the optimal value for acoustics will be 0.4-0.5 mm.

Essential for electrically amplified guitars. Installed in the instrument socket and isolates the pickup from extraneous sounds.

An essential instrument for tuning an acoustic guitar.

It will help develop a sense of rhythm and improve hand coordination.

Helps to output the sound from the guitar to a computer, speakers or amplifier. There are two options.

• With a magnetoelectric sensor. These pickups work in a similar way to electric guitar pickups. The difference is in the frequency range. It is important to remember that an electric guitar pickup is not suitable for acoustics, and such models will only work on an instrument with metal strings. They are attached simply - in the resonator hole of the top deck. The trouble is, these pickups change the sound a lot.
• With piezo sensor. They appeared in the 70s of the last century. The piezo transducer converts the vibrations of the string into an electrical signal thanks to a piezo crystal. The sound remains deep, clear and natural. They can be mortise (it is better to entrust the installation of such to a professional) or overhead.

Another instrument for guitar sound. It is rarely used separately, since it does not give a uniform sound, but it works great together with piezoelectronics.

So, we have gone through the main types, characteristics and brands of acoustic guitars. It remains to make the final choice correctly.

• Decide what you want to play and how - solo or in a group. Yes, that may change, but it's best to start learning right away on an instrument that suits you in terms of timbre and style. See what your favorite musicians are playing, explore their favorite models. It is quite possible that this will turn out to be an affordable option. And if not, then it will be easier for you to find something close in an affordable price range with the desired characteristics.
• Do not try to save money or buy an elite instrument right away. Take a closer look at the samples of the middle price segment, there are enough high-quality models.
• Pay attention to how big the tool is and how much it weighs. Playing a guitar that you can barely hold will be problematic.
• Decide if you want a model with a pickup and connectivity right from the start. Perhaps in the first couple of these options will be superfluous.
• If you're left-handed, it might be worth looking for the left-handed option. After all, playing on an inverted normal will be much more difficult due to the reverse order of the strings. Moreover, this is not possible in models with an asymmetric case.

The first question you need to answer when you are going to connect acoustics to an amplifier, computer or speakers is whether there is a pickup on the guitar. If it is absent - alas and ah, you must first purchase it. Or use an external microphone to pick up sound and transmit it to your computer. But be prepared for the overall sound quality to suffer.

If a pickup is present, then everything becomes much easier. The connection manual may differ slightly for different models, but if you have ever connected a new audio device to a computer, there should be no problems, unless you need an adapter and a short fiddling with the equalizer settings.

As for the amplifier, acoustic guitar amplifiers differ from their counterparts used with electric guitars, although they work according to the same principle. It's all about the sound. A good amplifier will have a well thought out equalizer and speaker connection function, which will make your life a lot easier. Pay attention to this.

Whether to study yourself or turn to a professional - it depends on what goals you set for yourself. If you are not aiming at the professional scene, but just want to please yourself and your friends with the game, you can try to master the instrument using master classes from the Internet. If it is important for you to understand the intricacies of sound, to understand how the sound changes depending on the instrument, the pick, even the shape of the nails, it is better to find yourself a teacher or go to courses. Yes, you can develop this knowledge on your own, but it will take you much more time and effort.

It is best to start learning to play nylon or the thinnest metal strings. Do not try to tackle complex compositions right away or master the melodies at a glance. Phasing, thoughtfulness is what you can't do without in the learning process. Better to do short but frequent sets. This will make it easier for the brain to digest the information. And don't play through pain at first!