Filters for the aquarium: description, types, selection and application

Keeping aquarium fish only at first glance seems to be an extremely simple task - pets, indeed, do not need to walk or play with them, but they require special conditions. A modern aquarium is a complex technological structure, every detail of which is of fundamental importance, and neglect of any of them is fraught with negative consequences for its inhabitants. The aquarium filter is one of the most important parts of the entire aquarium, and before starting fry, you need to figure out what it is and why.

Dirty water is a real scourge of our time, and if you have heard a little about such science as ecology, then you probably know that moisture flowing from a tap is potentially hazardous to health. Today it is extremely difficult to find good clean water. If some 100 years ago it was still possible to risk drinking water from a river or lake, today it is a real poison that provokes serious disorders of the gastrointestinal tract in humans and the extinction of fish. You could argue that in some way there are inhabitants in our rivers, but it must be borne in mind that in the aquarium you are unlikely to breed typical river perches and crucians, and the overseas beauty is used to completely different conditions. Filling a container with tap water taken from a polluted reservoir and passed through rusty pipes, you risk killing your fish in the very first days.

In a closed and rather tight space, the waste of their own vital activity poses a threat to fish, and the filter successfully copes with the removal of this waste as well.

Among other things, for the inhabitants of the tank, the abundant presence of oxygen in the water is also important, but if in flowing reservoirs moisture is rather easily saturated with it upon direct contact, then in a closed aquarium, and even indoors, this does not happen naturally. Most aquarium filters also solve this problem by aerating and adjusting the water to a condition that allows your pets to live in maximum comfort.

There are several main varieties of aquarium filters, and each of them works in a different way.

Airlift filters are based on the action of the so-called jet pumpwhen the compressor blows pressurized air into the bottom of the vertically installed water tube. Due to this, aeration of the liquid occurs, which, being mixed with air, becomes lighter than ordinary water pressing from below, and due to this it rises through the tube. From there, it flows back into the aquarium, but at any of the ends of the tube, lower or upper, you can put filters that will filter out all that is superfluous. Some folk craftsmen experiment with creating a filter of this type even on their own - they use either foam rubber or a layer of expanded clay or pumice with plants planted on top of them as a filtering material.

The pump filter generally works on the same principle., only water is supplied to the filtering layer not by blowing air, but by means of a pump, that is, a pump that pumps directly the liquid itself. Such devices are divided into internal and external, but the difference between them lies only in where exactly the block with the filtering material is located - in the water column or not. Structurally, such a mechanism is designed so that the pumped substance passes directly through the insides of the engine, at the same time cooling it and protecting it from possible overheating. Unlike the airlift mechanism described above, this filter option works productively with almost any volume of water, therefore it can be used even in the largest aquarium.

The above options for organizing the filter device indicate only the general principle of operation of the mechanism, while in fact the constructive variety of aquarium mechanisms is much greater. The types are so numerous that it can be difficult for a beginner to choose the optimal one - therefore, let's try to at least roughly figure out what such devices are.

The internal filter is a submersible mechanism that is completely submerged. Such devices are the most common, since they are considered the cheapest both in terms of purchase price and in terms of ongoing maintenance costs. They are divided into the above-described varieties - pump and airlift, with already provided aeration. Despite the demand, the obvious disadvantages should be recognized - for example, the fact that the submersible structure takes up part of the volume of the aquarium, reducing its usable area.

The external filter is of the pump type, since the liquid from the main tank must be supplied outside the aquarium. Water is supplied with a relatively weak flow and passes through several layers of filtration, while the materials are usually used in a variety of ways - foam rubber, synthetic winterizer, coal, peat and much more. This mechanism is very quiet, and the fillers rarely need to be replaced., however, there are some peculiarities - for example, cleaning the filters is possible only in the water drained from the aquarium, and replacement is done only gradually. Such precautions are due to the fact that filtration is largely provided by bacteria living in the layers, and the immediate replacement of all at once will lead to a violation of the biological balance in the existing system. This type of device is usually in demand by avid and experienced aquarists.

It has no own advantages and disadvantages in comparison with the "simple" external filter.

The bottom filter today can be considered a rarity, although it was previously used quite often. In fact, this is the same internal mechanism, only with a twist - it is disguised as a false bottom, which makes it seem that there is no filter at all in the aquarium. The soil itself, through which the pumped water passes, can be used as a filtering material. Today this option is considered relatively ineffective.

A relatively recent invention is the so-called Hamburg filter. In fact, it is a huge sponge that divides the water area of ​​the aquarium from bottom to surface into two parts, separating a small area from the main part.

In this regard, the pressure in the smaller zone is always lower than in the larger one, therefore water from the latter begins to rush into the first, passing through the filter sponge. The device's creators advertise it as very effective., since the laws of physics are largely used to pump large volumes of water, and dirt from the liquid does not clog narrow tubes - almost the entire section of the aquarium is accessible for its passage. The latter reason also determines that such a filter does not require special cleaning - it is included in the concept of general cleaning of the aquarium, and the large area of ​​the filtering zone leads to the fact that replacement is rarely needed.

By purchasing a filter, every aquarist expects that the device will effectively cope with the tasks assigned to him and will allow him to purify the water as efficiently as possible. It is most reasonable to use mechanisms with several different filtering layers, but even in this case, you should understand what the fillers are and what kind of result they give.

The unambiguous top of our time is foam rubber, which allows water to pass through well, but retains dirt. Unlike competing padding polyester, this material requires less frequent replacement, and it is also good because it is friendly to bacteria that can neutralize fish waste.

It should be washed in water from the aquarium, otherwise all beneficial bacteria will be washed down the drain.

Ceramics are sharpened for biological filtration, and only for it - the fact is that the porous structure of the material is very convenient for the settlement of nitrifying bacteria there, and they help to break down the poisonous waste of fish vital activity. As in the case of foam rubber, ceramics are not washed under running water, preserving biological balance. Such an element is more often found in external filters, but if it is possible to place it in an internal structure, it is worth doing it.

It was already mentioned above that this material clogs up rather quickly, but this is its peculiarity - it is very viscous and does an excellent job of mechanical cleaning.

For everyday filtration, "cotton wool" is poorly suited, because in a maximum of a week it turns into a dirty lump, and although it can be washed under running water, it is more often used to eliminate strong turbidity of water.

This ion-exchange resin is ideal for chemical cleaning of a container, since it literally attracts various poisons and harmful substances, acting in a similar way to the sorbent acting in the human body. At the same time, sometimes the potentially beneficial effect of such a substance also touches the necessary elements - the resin also absorbs phosphates, and it also lowers the pH level. It is possible and necessary to use such a filter element; you just need to take care to balance its slight negative effect.

Another variant of the filter material that promotes biological water purification. A big advantage of expanded clay balls is that they not only are not contaminated by extraneous mechanical suspensions, but, in general, practically do not clog. The potential danger of using such a filter is that excess phosphates and silicates may be present in the composition of the substance, not to mention heavy metals, therefore, the filler must be thoroughly washed before use.

For the production of such a substance, they take not simple coal, but activated - the very sorbent capable of collecting a lot of foreign impurities, which certainly do not contribute to the health of the inhabitants of the aquarium.

For this reason coal is never used as a permanent or just the main filter material - it only complements other filters when it is necessary to effectively purify the water from excessive turbidity or after treating pets for any disease with the help of medicines added to the aquarium.

This natural element is often found in aquariums, but only comparatively rarely is it used as a filter filler. It provides optimal conditions for those pets and plantswho like soft water, but remember that not all fish like these living conditions.

A filter for an aquarium is a device that needs to be selected individually for each aquarium, taking into account, among other things, the specifics of the fish living in it. Nevertheless there are certain models that are in stable demand by a large number of consumers, and for beginners who do not yet have a huge knowledge base on choosing a device, this can be a great tip. In addition, this is a certain guarantee that the purchased unit will be of high quality.

Please note that our list can be subjective - the majority's choice does not always indicate that a particular model is best for your conditions.

Recently, several models have been classified as top-end internal filters.

This is a vivid example of how one body can contain everything that only underwater inhabitants need - there is both a built-in diffuser and a spherical head that evenly distributes the flow of returned water throughout the tank. For the convenience of the owner, a water flow regulator is also provided. The unit provides for the use of several filters at once, and is especially practical in that it allows the detachment of some compartments for cleaning while all the others are working.

The unit is designed specifically for medium-sized aquariums in the range of 50-150 liters, but at the same time it drives water at a speed of 600 liters per hour, that is, it has the ability to very effectively remove even the most difficult contaminants from the water. This device provides cleaning in all three parameters - mechanical, chemical and biologicaland it can also be combined with a thermostat, providing an ideal microclimate in the aquarium.

The Chinese mechanism has proven itself excellent in working with large-capacity aquariums. - it is suitable for artificial reservoirs with a volume of 300-500 liters. It filters water with a huge capacity of 1000 liters per hour, and at the same time itself has an internal volume of 7 liters, which is not much different from outdoor units.

For external filters, we have created a separate list, taking into account a somewhat different principle of operation.

Such a unit does not give the impression of a typical "bucket", because its body is made of stainless steel and is distinguished by its unique style of design. The mechanism implements all the main types of liquid purification, and the efficient pump is supplemented with design features that further increase the efficiency of the device.

One of the most versatile filters for aquariums - it practically does not put forward any requirements for the volume of the vessel, working with containers from 20 to 300 liters. Consumers emphasize the extremely simple installation and start-up of the unit.they also like the ability to independently define fillers, for which there are 8 modules.

This model is somewhat inferior in versatility to its higher counterpart, but it also gives room for maneuver - from 60 to 200 liters. When running water at a speed of up to 700 liters per hour, it consumes only 9 watts of electricity for the same time. It is also highly appreciated by consumers for its almost silent operation.

As you can see, each type of filter has its own advantages and disadvantages. Nevertheless, an inexperienced person does not always manage to choose the right unit correctly, because a beginner often focuses only on the type of device, forgetting that it is necessary to evaluate other characteristics as well. Here's what it is recommended to pay attention to.

The efficiency of each mechanism is designed for a certain displacement - it is naive to think that a unit oriented to a volume of 50 liters will cope with a 200 liter aquarium. When purchasing a mechanism, ask what volume it is suitable for, and be sure to make a stock of at least 10 liters.

It's one thing - how much water the filter can handle, another - how long it will take. The most powerful and expensive models are capable of pumping 400-600 liters through the filtration layers every hour, which means that in a 100 liter aquarium, the entire volume of liquid will be cleaned several times in a row within just one hour.

Above, we have already indirectly touched on this topic. Filtration can be different - mechanical filters out dirt and sand, biological one breaks down poisonous waste products of fish, chemical one removes various impurities from the water that will not benefit the inhabitants of an artificial reservoir.

A whole section was devoted to this issue above, but just in case it is worth clarifying that some filters do not allow a variety of fillers - certain types of filtering material cannot be used due to the design features of the unit. This answers the question of why you need to know what types of filtering the selected mechanism supports.

A typical home filter for a small aquarium is powered from an outlet and consumes very little - at the level of 5-7 watts per hour.Such an indicator is completely uncritical for any household, but you need to make sure that the powerful model you choose is also economical, otherwise the electricity bill can be shocking.

There are no maintenance-free filters, but in this situation, aquarists want maintenance as little as possible without affecting the efficiency of the device. It is considered optimal to choose a unit that needs to be cleaned about as often as the entire aquarium. - it is easier to endure all procedures for one day.

The water that has passed through the filter returns to the container under pressure, which not all inhabitants will like - some of them like a calm atmosphere without flow. For a mini aquarium up to 30 liters, this could be a real problem., because the jet cannot be hidden anywhere, and it turns out that it takes away the useful space of the vessel. That is why the designers came up with a fan-like mode of water injection, when it is evenly distributed throughout the entire aquarium.

In the apartment where you yourself and your household members live, silence can be fundamental, because the noise of a working filter interferes with sleep, especially if there is a small child in the house. For this reason, it is worth asking how noisy the operation of the device is, and you should pay special attention to silent external units.

Manufacturers usually provide their products with installation instructions, but it can be difficult for a beginner to immediately understand them. To avoid mistakes, consider what and how to do.

Remember that the filter is never installed in an empty aquarium - even during the installation process you are guided by the water level... If you purchased a disassembled unit, be sure to dry it thoroughly before assembling - it is reliably isolated from moisture, but if it is inside, an electrical device can teach you a good physics lesson.

At the same time, it is unacceptable for the device to touch the bottom - in no case does it lie on the ground, but is attached with suction cups to the wall of the vessel. Try to get a device that fits well into the dimensions of your artificial reservoir, otherwise you will have to add more water or deepen the bottom.

Remember to check the length of the power cord when deciding where to place the appliance inside the aquarium. The cable must be sufficient to hang freely from the power source to the case itself, otherwise pulling it increases the likelihood that the cable will wear out or be accidentally pulled out of the outlet. A filter that does not work for a long time can become a huge problem for fish, which will experience a sharp deterioration in habitat conditions.

If the filter has a separate air intake pipe, it must be routed out and in some way given it a secure and stable position to ensure that it does not fall into the water. For this reason, it is worth initially choosing filters where some kind of attachment device is provided on the aerator tube that is convenient for the conditions of your apartment.

Immediately, we note that the above actions are average recommendations for most submersible devices, however, some models may have slightly different recommendations. This means that our prompt does not relieve you of the need to check the instructions. Other types of mechanisms may have a different installation pattern, and although it is always simpler, the instructions should also be read before anything goes wrong.

Using a water filter involves following rules that seem simple to most experienced aquarists, but can be a real revelation for beginners. For this reason, we will consider what is worth doing and what is unacceptable during operation.

• Regular cleaning of the filters is imperative as none of them are permanent. The frequency of this procedure depends on which filler you have chosen, and what type of your device belongs to. But the terms prescribed in the instructions must be strictly observed, otherwise the water in the aquarium will not be purified.
• Water filtration must be continuous. If you suddenly need to disconnect the mechanism from the power supply, immediately remove it from the aquarium. Remember that the dirt accumulated by the filtering materials does not return to the water, largely because the filter does not let it forward, and the current does not let it back. Leaving the switched-off appliance in the water will allow the accumulated waste over time to enter the liquid at once.
• Safety precautions do not allow you to lower your hands into the water while the filter is on. You cannot expect that if everything is in order with the fish, then nothing will happen to you either. By the same logic, the extraction of the mechanism, for which you will definitely have to put your hands in the water and fiddle with the suction cups, is prohibited at a time when any other electrical life-support devices of the aquarium are not turned off.
• The submersible unit is turned on only after it is completely submerged in the water column. Otherwise, air may enter the system, which will not contribute to the correct operation of the device.

Which is better - an internal or external filter for the aquarium, see below.