Types of weaving of gold chains

The chain is one of the most versatile pieces of jewelry. However, when purchasing it, difficulties may arise with the choice, since the assortment of goods, the variety of models are very large. To find the right thing, you need to take into account a number of points, namely: the type of weaving and lock, the method of making this jewelry - and a few more details.

Chains are highly demanded jewelry that is in demand among both men and women. There are several ways to create this jewelry. The oldest is manual work that requires a lot of time and highly skilled craftsmen.

Chains are also woven by machine, which requires the use of high-precision and expensive equipment. This method allows you to make delicate, almost weightless jewelry. The minimum wire thickness is only 0.15 mm!

However, not all types of weaving are available for industrial production, so the work of a jeweler in some cases remains indispensable. Hand-made jewelry is much heavier and more durable (when done by a qualified technician).

The cheapest manufacturing method is stamping. Chain elements are created by punching sheet metal using special punching dies.In this case, the links are not soldered, they are simply assembled, which affects the strength of the finished product.

There are many varieties of weaving, some of which are considered masculine, others are feminine, and still others are classified as "unisex".

In terms of the complexity of manufacturing, these jewelry can also be different. Some can only be done by hand, others are available for industrial, machine production. Complicated and time-consuming work requires, for example, such a type of knitting as "rope" - twisted weaving from many small elements.

Jewelry of different types of knitting has different weights. Distinguish between massive, dense and delicate, light chains. The former includes, among other things, the weaving "spike", the elements of which are twisted so that they form a V-shaped pattern typical of spikes.

There are three main types of weaving: anchor, armor and Bismarck. They differ in the type of elements and the nature of their arrangement relative to each other.

The main features of different types of knitting chains:

• With the anchor type of weaving, adjacent links are located perpendicular to each other. With classical anchor weaving, they are the same and have an oblong shape. However, there are a number of varieties of this type of weaving, in which the shape of the links may be different. The arrangement of adjacent links at right angles to each other, even with their small thickness, visually imparts bulkiness to the chain with a relatively low weight.

• Weaving of the "Bismarck" type (aka "Kaiser") is no less popular, which also has a lot of varieties and variations. The chain is formed by spiral-shaped links, which are enclosed in one another, as a result of which a bizarre and beautiful pattern is obtained. Links for this type of connection are made of wire twisted into a spiral; the ends of the elements are sealed after connecting the links to each other.

• Armored weaving assumes the arrangement of links on the same plane, as on chain mail.

The most versatile type of weaving is considered to be anchor. It goes well with various types of pendant ornaments, you just need to take care that the weight of the pendant or cross matches the thickness of the chain.

Anchor weaving subspecies:

• "Sea chain", if the links have a reinforcing bulkhead;
• Double if the links are double;
• "Double roll", or "Garibaldi" (in honor of the Garibaldi spouses), if double round links are connected;

• "Venetian" if the shape of the links is square / rectangular;

• 1 + 1, if all links in the chain have the same highly elongated shape;
• 1 + 2, if there is an alternation: one standard link - two elements of a highly elongated shape;

• "Moscow bit". In addition to the standard elongated ones, it contains additional curved links that give the chain extra density. Suitable for men's jewelry;

• "Rollo", or French weaving, it is also "Belzer", or "Chopard" (from the name of the Chopard jewelry house, which used this variant of chains in its works), if the links of the chain are perfectly round. Chopard is also a very versatile variety of anchor weaving. In some cases, massive chains are an independent aesthetic detail, in others they can be combined with men's jewelry, and thin, with small links, are ideal for a women's pendant / pendant;

• Cordless, when each link is connected not only with the two nearest, but also with a large number of links, forming a wavy or stepped chain pattern;

• "Aurora". It is considered a fancy subspecies of anchor weaving;
• "Hawaiian". Another fancy weaving.

This type of knitting has many varieties. Among the most famous are:

• Double bismarck;
• Triple Bismarck;
• "Python" (or "Pharaoh", "Italian", "American", "whim"). This option is perfect for both women and men;

• Moscow (classical) bismarck;

• "Stream";

• Arabic bismarck. More airy and openwork version compared to the classic;

• Glamor. The links are decorated with small metal balls on both sides;

• "The Rose". Each link is a spiral, welded in such a way that this element resembles a flower;

• "Fox tail" ("Byzantium", "royal weaving"). This subtype has several varieties: circle, semicircle, square, "fox tail";

• "Abinatha".

Bismarck weave is considered to be suitable mainly for men's jewelry, although some of its subspecies, such as “rose” or “glamor”, are categorized as “for women”. There are also varieties of the universal plan: it is a "trickle", "python", "arabic".

There are different subspecies of armored knitting, including:

• Love. The links are heart-shaped;
• Figaro (Cartier). Elements of different shapes are connected in a certain order. The most common connection is 3 + 1 (three round and one oblong), but other options are also possible (1 plus 1; 2 plus 1, etc.);
• "Rhombus". Diamond-shaped elements are connected. "Rhombus" can be single, double or triple. A very graceful variety of carapace weaving;

• "Snail" ("paper clip"). Chain elements with a curl in the center and resemble a paper clip;
• "Singapore". The decoration is twisted in a spiral thanks to the links, which are slightly curved, so it shines and shimmers;

• "Nonna" ("nona"). The name comes from the Italian language, it is an abbreviation of the phrase "grandmother's weaving". The chain consists of large and small links, the second are placed in the first;

• "Cobra". Weaving is two-link, strong and durable, it can be made of gold of the same color, or in a two-color version, with alternating elements from different types of alloys. This chain can be worn over clothing;

• Serpentine. The decoration elements create a wavy pattern and are located in the same plane.

Popular weaves include:

Ball and cylinder shaped elements are connected with a thread. A chain can only consist of “ball” elements or of two types of elements, it can have several rows, that is, it can be double or triple. It is difficult to call the method of making such an ornament actually weaving. The piece of jewelry looks more like a bead than a chain. It looks very impressive, however, it requires a very careful attitude, since it is easily deformed, for the same reason it is not worn with pendants.

Such decorations can be of different types of section (circle, square), the chain is hollow and looks like a snake. The flat "snake" is called "Cleopatra".

It is a weave of several ribbons of carapace-type knitting. The adornment is voluminous, impresses with its brilliance and acts as an independent piece like a necklace that does not require any additions in the form of pendants. The ribbons of such jewelry can be made of gold of different colors.

There are also unusual combined weaves, when different types of knitting are combined in one decoration, for example, "fox tail" and anchor. Elements of different types can be made from different gold alloys.

The links of the chains can be combined with a variety of decorative inserts, for example, a Bismarck jewelry can be decorated with precious stones. Links come in non-standard shapes and unusual designs, for example, in the shape of the letter "A" (weaving "admiral") or in the shape of an eight, the variety of options is very great.

The most durable types of weaving are considered "Bismarck" and carapace in the varieties "rhombus" and "Nonna".The service life of high-quality jewelry made using the Bismarck technique is very long (tens of years). In addition, such chains can be repaired, if necessary.

The strength of the chain depends not only on the type of knitting, but also on the type of alloy from which it is made. The ideal option for a gold chain, for example, is 585-carat gold.

Depending on the type of wire, a distinction is made between solid chains and hollow ones. Hollow ones are lighter in weight and much less durable, however, they look no less impressive than solid ones, at a relatively low cost. They require a very careful attitude towards themselves.

The following types of locks are used for jewelry chains:

Ring with spring latch. It is installed on fairly light jewelry, weighing up to 5 g. In case of breakage, it is not repairable.

Installed on jewelry weighing from 5 g, also has a spring. A reliable lock, if its size corresponds to the weight of the product. In the event of a breakdown, it must be repaired. It can be in the form of an oval or a drop.

A very reliable lock, especially if it is equipped with additional securing hinges. Installed on heavy jewelry weighing from 20 g. It consists of two parts: a box with a hole and an element that goes into it, which is fixed inside.

It is quite rare. It has a hinged lid, due to the hinge it folds in half and is fixed. It is convenient to use, but requires care: it is necessary to control whether the lock is fully closed.

It is considered relatively reliable, but not very convenient: in order to quickly close it, a certain skill is required, otherwise it will take a certain time.

Consists of a T-shaped element and a ring into which it is threaded. Reliable lock and easy to manufacture. Fastens easily.

It clings to a special loop. Used on chains with heavy pendants, otherwise it may be unreliable.

When choosing, you should pay attention not only to the type of weaving and the type of lock, but also to the length of the decoration. A universal option for women is considered to be a chain length of 40-50 cm. A length of 50-60 cm is chosen if you want to visually lengthen the neck.

Short chains (up to 40 cm) are only suitable for women with a long neck. Women of mature age should not choose such chains; medium-length jewelry, complemented by a pendant or pendant, is more suitable for them.

It should be borne in mind that the bottom edge of the chain should not be covered by clothes, you need to select a dress or blouse with a cutout corresponding to the length of the jewelry, or take into account when buying which wardrobe you plan to combine it with.

If you are going to combine a chain with a pendant or pendant, choose the jewelry designed for this. Not all types of weaving allow this use. There are chains intended for pendants, as well as decorative and universal.

Very long chains, especially with large pendants, visually slim the figure, but it is better to choose them for tall or medium height girls, short ones should refrain from such jewelry so as not to visually shorten the height.

It is better if the bracelet matches the chain according to the type of weaving and color of the metal. If the jewelry does not make up one set, then they should have a similar color and approximately the same thickness, match in density or delicacy, harmonize in style.

A ready-made set of pendant and earrings, bracelet and chain is the simplest, but completely optional option. You can match jewelry that was not bought in pairs to each other, combine in one image, including several types of chains with different pendants - the main thing is to combine them correctly, taking into account the length, color, texture, achieving harmony. Layered and multi-layered jewelry is now in trend.

The thickness of the chain should correspond to the weight and size of the pendant or pendant. It is believed that the weight of the chain should be twice the weight of the pendant decoration. A massive pendant can break a thin chain, and a medium-sized or openwork jewelry will look inharmonious on a voluminous one.

The more intricate the pendant is, the easier it should be to weave the chain. The color of the metal of both jewelry must match. Choosing a chain of a certain length and combining it with a pendant, you can place the necessary accents in your image, emphasize the necessary details, since a large pendant or a voluminous chain invariably attracts attention.