Cave city Chufut-Kale in Crimea: history, features and location

Cave city ... Mysticism, phantasmagoria, close interweaving of fiction and reality, immersion in the atmosphere of time frozen in stone. These are just a few of the associations that this word evokes. But the cave city is not an invention of science fiction writers, but a reality that has come down to us in a form that sweeps aside doubts. There is such a city in the Crimea, and it is called Chufut-Kale.

Speaking dryly and in monosyllables, Chufut-Kale is a medieval fortress city located on a mountain plateau. It is a cultural heritage site. The highest point above sea level is 581 m. The ancient city at an altitude, which nevertheless left more questions than answers, is visited by hundreds of tourists every year.

Chufut-Kale translated from Tatar means “Jewish fortress”. This name has been used in Soviet historical literature, as well as in Russian-language works by Karaite authors for more than a century and a half. But they called the ancient city in a different way, namely:

• Kyrk-Er or Kyrk-Or, Chifut-Kalesi - these are the Crimean Tatar names of the cave city that existed during the times of the Crimean Khanate;
• Kale or Kale - it is an authentic name referring to the Karaite-Crimean dialect, which was used by the Karaites themselves;
• Sela Yukhudim - translated from Hebrew as “rock of the Jews”, this phrase could be found in Karaite literature until the middle of the 19th century, and already in the second half of the next century it was replaced by Sela ha-Karaim;
• Chuft-Kale and Dzhuft-Kale - these are late names, which from the Turkic can be interpreted as a pair or double fortress.

This area was perfect for habitation and settlement of people: a picturesque valley itself, a good supply of fresh water, a rock from a plateau. The city has become a reliable hideout from enemies and invaders. And yet there is no exact, convincing information about when the city was formed. Excavations a little clarified the situation: people lived here in the Neolithic era, later the Taurus tribe settled here. But with urban planning, there is no accuracy.

One of the historical theories says that around the 6th century, the Byzantines built a fortress on a mountain peak for the Alans, their allies. The settlement was named Fulla. And in the X century there was a Goto-Alan principality, a partner of the Byzantine Empire. Qualitative information about this state has not survived, but there is mention of the Tatars' raid in the third century and the plundering of the city by the horde of Nagai in 1299.

After some time, the city briefly became the capital of the Crimean Khanate - and such a milestone was in its history. Here was the residence of Khan Naji Geray. After some time, the capital was moved to Bakhchisarai, the Tatars began to leave the city. When the Tatars ruled here, high-status captives were held in the city fortress by prisoners. There was also a mint here.

The loss of the capital's power and the outflow of the local population led to the fact that only Karaites remained in the city. Their movement was regulated by Tatar laws. And from that very time the city became Chufut-Kale. This is not just a "Jewish rock", it is a "Jewish rock", to be precise - such an offensive connotation is not accidental.

In 1774, the Russians came here, and this was marked by another outflow of local residents. Krymchaks and Karaites began to leave the settlement; in the 19th century, only the caretaker's family remained here. The bitter fame of the place for keeping special prisoners of war brought wide popularity to the city.

Historians suggest that the prison was located in a cave complex in the New Town quarter, which was located almost next to the Middle Fortress Line, at the abyss. So, the oprichnik Vasily Gryaznoy was taken on the Crimean border. While in captivity, he corresponded with the ruler - with Ivan the Terrible. The Tatars were talking about the exchange of Gryaznoy for Diveya-Murza, the Crimean commander. And although Gryaznoy tearfully prayed for release, the tsar saved him only in 1577.

Nikolai Pototsky was also in captivity, his prison life ended in release after the battle of Korsun. Boyarin Vasily Sheremetev also visited the fortress in Chufut-Kale. The prisoner spent 21 years in prison, during his imprisonment four rulers were replaced. In 1681, the Bakhchisarai Peace Treaty was signed between the Crimean Khanate and Russia, the prisoners, including Sheremetev, were ransomed. But the boyar lived in freedom for only a year - the health eaten by the prison made itself felt.

One of the historical mysteries is whether Catherine the Great was in Chufut-Kale. Many experts are inclined to think that the information about her arrival is erroneous, this is nothing more than a legend. But it is known for certain that these places were visited by prominent writers - Mitskevich, Griboyedov, Zhukovsky, Lesya Ukrainka, Gorky, Tolstoy. Both James Aldridge and Andrey Bitov have also been here.

The artists Repin, Serov, Kramskoy also saw the cave city with their own eyes. Today, most of the territory is in ruins.But many of the most interesting, extremely valuable objects have been preserved well - the skeleton of the mosque, the Dzhanyke-khanym mausoleum, Karaite temples, a residential estate, and some household ones. If you are coming here as a tourist, rest assured that the excursion will not be speculation on the burnt ashes of the once legendary place. There is something to see and something to be impressed with.

The first destination is Bakhchisarai. From here you can get to Staroselie station by car or minibus. There is a car park here. From here, the hiking trail begins, the length of which is 1.5 km. Just 10-15 minutes walk and you will come to the Holy Dormition Monastery, one of the famous shrines of the Crimea. Later, through Maryam-Dere, you will come to the notorious cave city.

The coordinates of the city on the map are 44 ° 44 ′ 25.44 ′ ′ N 33 ° 55 ′ 19.85 ′ ′ E. If you have concerns about whether it is worth traveling this far just for the sake of the cave city, mark them. The Bakhchisarai region is interesting in itself.

The path leading the tourist to Chufut-Kale is winding, naughty, steep. Travelers who decide to visit this amazing city in slates or, even worse, in heels, risk not getting to their destination. Only sneakers or sneakers will not make the excursion an execution. The trail will lead to the southern entrance to the settlement - these are real oak gates, double-winged, upholstered with iron strips. The gate is called Kuchuk-Kapu and is located in the southern wall of the fortress.

The very appearance of this wall speaks: a real fortress, not subject to the invader, ready to defend the possessions with all the fierceness.

A narrow and long corridor resembling a sack (only stone) is waiting outside the gate. The enemy who got here was fired upon by the defenders. For lovers of ancient history, such a structure of the fortress is familiar - it is the classic defensive system of ancient cities (and medieval ones too). The road that starts outside the gate is paved with stone. She goes upstairs from the gloomy tunnel. There, in the bright light, rises a primeval rock with ruts of caves.

And now, a tourist who comes out to the site finds himself in a real cave world. Today, 28 premises are called the definition of "Christian monastery". But it is not known what such was here for sure. Even if we assume that there was no church, not a single religious place here, each of the 28 caves is interesting in itself. But you will see the courtyard with Karaite temples further, and these are definitely temples - kenases. Karaites honor the Torah, but their temples are different from synagogues.

This place definitely deserves a detailed description. The valley that goes southeast of Chufut-Kale is called Jehoshaphat (the analogy with Jerusalem is not accidental). In its upper reaches there is a large Karaite cemetery. Not a small churchyard, but hundreds of ancient gravestones. They are different in size and shape, they are shifted and even inverted, they are chained in their tight embrace by the roots of trees. And all this is disorderly, but imperious, occupies a huge territory.

Historians believe that funeral rites for different segments of the population did not differ significantly, but the shape and size of the tombstones varied. On many monuments, you can even make out epitaphs. Is it scary that some tourists come here as a place of power? Could this be the place of last refuge? But if you do not cling to words, then the Karaite cemetery is really energetically strong.

It was not razed to the ground, it did not disappear in the whirlwind of history, but stands here and in our high-tech time as a living reminder that we are not the first on this earth, and that we are not the last. And there is some kind of simple, subtle wisdom in this.

There are many mysteries that tourists have described more than once.And about the evil fate towards those who tried to desecrate the cemetery, and about the amazing sites on its territory, which remained incomprehensibly clean when everything outside was strewn with foliage. But there were no cases that someone came here with peace and respect, and the cemetery had a negative impact on him, were not found anywhere.

This is another interesting place. At the edge of the eastern cliff is this artifact, created in parallel with the city and related to its defensive structure. In pithos and cesterns, the water reserves were very modest, for a long time they, of course, did not know how to give the city water. In times of peace, the townspeople took water that was suitable for the ceramic plumbing system to the foot of the plateau.

Craftsmen have made a hole with four corners in the rocky massif. Down there was a staircase of six flights, each with a platform. And so on them water bearers successfully diverged. And in the middle of the first march they cut down a rather big cave with, so to speak, a door. It is assumed that this was the place of the guards guarding the strategic facility. And one more window was cut through in the middle part of the descent to the cliff.

A thoughtful tourist is tormented by the question - how was water delivered here. And this is almost the greatest secret of the Foothills. Although many researchers are sure that even in the 30s of the last century, the scientist Repnikov was able to explain the phenomenon. And the specialist suggested that there could only be atmospheric moisture, which on the rock was represented by ordinary night dew. Since the sea is close, the daytime temperatures are high, and the air remained damp at night.

It is not known exactly when the well ceased to function. But, most likely, this happened at a time when the invaders managed to break through the outer wall of the fortress. She has ceased to be unapproachable. A separate source of water has been lost. Although water is still supplied here, but in much more modest quantities. Experts advise against trying it - the siege well is very dirty.

An Orthodox monastery in this area will also arouse considerable interest. The accuracy of information about the history of its origin is not guaranteed, but there is an opinion that the temple was founded on the border of the 8th and 9th centuries, and that it was actually the center of Christian culture on the peninsula.

Crimea, as you know, was then pro-Tatar, Christians, to put it mildly, were oppressed. The taxes they were forced to pay were virtually unaffordable. They had no choice but to hide in the mountain crevices from this injustice. Then for some time the monastery ceased to exist. But in the XIV century, a new stage of its existence began.

During the Turkish invasion The Assumption Monastery was listed as the residence of the Metropolitans of the Goths... There is an opinion that the monastery was born only in the 15th century. He did not survive the Russian-Turkish wars. In some years of war, a hospital was located here, the dead were buried in the monastery cemetery.

But what crippled the life of the monastery was the arrival of Soviet power. And the bitter fate that befell many churches throughout the Soviet territory could be even more sad for the monastery. During the Great Patriotic War, a military hospital functioned here, and after the war a real psychiatric hospital was opened here.

Inside the temple is very small, there are a lot of tourists... One group goes up, the other goes down. The church has a very interesting ceiling - stone, it is obvious that it was diligently hewn, that it is dotted with a special chisel. There is also a small room where the icon of the Mother of God of Bakhchisarai (Panagia) is kept. The exterior view of the monastery is no less impressive. Stone cornices hang majestically, icons - right on the rocks.

This is the name of the 15th century mausoleum, which is actually completely preserved. It is considered an architectural monument, located in the southeast of the city. This is the historical heritage of the Golden Horde. The territory adjacent to it is empty today, but once upon a time there was a cemetery on this place. In 1437 Khan Tokhtamysh ordered to build a mausoleum in memory of his daughter Janik-khanim.

Someone compares the fate of this girl with the Maid of Orleans, but no specialist will be able to tell you exactly the story of her life.

True, one interesting line is known and passed by word of mouth, although this is nothing more than a legend. During the siege of the city, Janike saved people: she, being thin as a reed, was the only one who could get to the well.

It cannot be said that some object of the cave city can overshadow others. No, a single, holistic impression makes up the city as a whole. The tourist enters the square, which today has left traces of ancient, very old events - a mosque, a stone well, a Christian church. You will learn about the Karaites, who lived separately, in their own neighborhood, were engaged in crafts and households. The large stone house of one of them, the chronicler and scientist Firkovich, still stands in the cave city today.

The mint, craft shops, printing houses - everything was here, and judging by the integrity of the buildings, it seems like it was yesterday. But centuries have passed, and this is the greatest, vivid, hardly comprehensible impression of the ancient city: how is it possible that through the layers of centuries we have a house in front of us, the walls of which will not crumble from the touch of our palms.

It will be interesting to wander the streets of the ancient city, trying to unravel its secrets, to decipher the messages of the people who once lived here, to understand what kind of power that person had, that his trace is so obvious today. The streets of Chufut-Kale are perfectly preserved: and the way the sidewalks were made in antiquity is worth showing to many modern builders. In a heavy downpour, water flows down the road, but the traveler calmly walks along the stone sidewalk. That's for sure, done for centuries.

The official website of the cultural and historical object informs that you can organize an excursion from 9 am to 6 pm, the office hours are until 5 pm. There is also an announcement that every visitor should have a hat and a supply of drinking water with him: without this, the excursion is impossible. This is not an embankment, but a rocky area, even if you came not in winter, but in the hot season, the shoes should be strong and closed - sneakers. Wear comfortable clothes.

You should not go here with small children: rocks, mountains, pits and cliffs are dangerous for hindsight kids. The ticket price is around 200 rubles (full) and 100 (reduced). You can drink and eat on the territory of the cave city, but only if you carry food and drink with you, and never litter.

Chufut-Kale is a stone relic of the Crimea. An excursion here makes many tourists think about important things, reconsider their life, mission, life trace. Therefore, even from the point of view of energy recharging, a trip here will be useful. Finally, diving into history is fun and, thankfully, affordable.

For how the cave city of Chufut-Kale in Crimea looks like, see the next video.