Surb-Khach monastery in Crimea: features and location

Of particular interest for travelers is the Old Crimea, which covered the foot of the Monastyrsky Mountain. At the very top of this picturesque wooded area, you can see the outline of the apostolic church. It is here that Surb-Khach is located - the oldest functioning Armenian monastery.

In the 13th century, with the consent of the Horde khans, a large number of Armenians moved to Taurida from the town of Ani, destroyed by a strong earthquake. They found their refuge in the town of Crimea. There is a legend that the spiritual leader of the Armenians, Hovhannes Sebastatsi, saw a huge fiery cross in the sky, which he considered a good omen and decided to build a large monastery on this place. Hence its name - Surb-Khach, which in translation means "holy cross".

Together with his brother, Hovhannes Sebastatsi bought a plot of 50 hectares from the Genoese and in 1358 began to build the monastery, and on its roof it was decided to erect the main relic of the Armenian people - a cross from the temple of the city of Ani.

There is an opinion among historians that this monastery became a kind of symbol of resistance against the conversion of Armenians to Catholicism... This is how the history of the Armenian Church of the Holy Cross began, for many tens and even hundreds of years it was associated with destruction - as a result of attacks from the Genoese, Tatars and Turks, the building was constantly destroyed and rebuilt, the fraternal corps was rebuilt many times and new cells appeared.

Throughout its history, the Surb-Khach monastery was inactive only twice. The first time happened when the Armenians were expelled from the Crimea to the steppes of the Don.The second case occurred already during the Soviet era, when in 1925 a tuberculosis dispensary was founded on the site of the monastery, and a year later - a pioneer camp for schoolchildren.

During the Second World War, the monastery was completely abandoned and began to gradually decay and decay. This continued until the 70s of the last century. At that time, archaeological excavations began on the territory of the complex and the building was partially restored, and a sanatorium was set up in the former cell room.

Spiritual life returned to Surb-Khach only in the early 90s of the last century, when the cross was again installed over the temple, and the divine services began. In 2002, the monastery was officially transferred to the Armenian Orthodox Church, but it was opened only in 2008, when electricity was installed, access roads were arranged and an abbot was appointed. Shortly before that, crosses with the encrypted inscription "Surb-Khach" were brought from Armenia, they were installed near the doors of the temple. Today the monastery is active.

Surb Khach is a male abode for Orthodox Armenians, women are strictly forbidden to enter here. Only the ruins of the old building are open to visit - the fraternal building, a refectory room, as well as a courtyard. In ancient times, this monastery was quite famous, it housed its own school, the most famous sacred books and spiritual memorials were copied on the territory of the monastery. Even the attack of Turkish troops in 1475 did not stop the educational and moral life in the Surb-Khach monastery.

Until the 18th century, the monastery remained the main center of pilgrimage for believers of Armenians throughout the entire Crimea, as well as the Northern Black Sea region. It is known that initially the ministers lived in one common cell, but as the number of novices grew, the number of internal living quarters also increased. The rooms themselves were small - 2x2 meters, with a fireplace in each room.

Now it is difficult to imagine how you can live in such a limited space, but do not forget that in the cells the monks only slept and recited prayers, and this does not require much space at all.

In a separate tower, the abbot's room was set up, who held a liturgy every Sunday. He remained in his cell in complete solitude from Monday to Saturday and prepared for the service, after which he went down a small staircase and went straight to the altar.

The gates to the temple are decorated with majestic crosses, near which you can see the tombstones - these are the ancient burials of the first novices and the founder of Surb-Khach. According to the customs of the Armenian church, it is always considered a great honor to be buried near the entrance to a monastery or temple.

One of the old frescoes depicting the Mother of God is visible above the entrance, but it is very poorly preserved. According to documents that have come down to us, in the past there were many paintings in the monastery, but now they are in the most deplorable state, and the outlines of the faces of the saints are practically invisible on them.

There is no iconostasis in Armenian churches - the altar is decorated only with the icon of the Mother of God. The place itself is separated from the rest of the room by a small curtain; in this regard, the Armenian religious traditions are very close to the early Christian ones. There is a baptismal font in the room, as well as a zone where you can, if you wish, put a burning candle - Armenians put candles for peace and health in a single place.

In the Surb-Khach temple there is a famous icon called Blinking Jesus. All over the world there are only 3 sketches from the original, and the original itself is nothing more than the shroud that Jesus was covered with immediately after his death, and on which the imprint of his face is preserved. One such canvas is kept in Surb-Khach, the second in Georgia, and the third in the Vatican.

The icon is made so that when looking at it from any position, Jesus either looks at a person, then his eyelids are closed, then they are filled with blood and tears. This image makes a truly lasting impression on everyone who sees it.

The monastery garden is undoubtedly one of the main attractions of the monastery.... Of course, its beauty has faded over the centuries - in previous centuries it was famous for its trees, there were several beautiful fountains, but only two have survived to our times. The fountains look like rectangular structures, laid out of stone, on the surface of which carved patterns are clearly visible. The garden is located on several terraces, stairs lead to them, which are now in a dilapidated state.

Near the monastery in the middle of summer they celebrate Vardavar is the Armenian analogue of the day of Ivan Kupala, and on holidays, exhibitions of works of Armenian folk crafts and concerts of folk groups are held here. Tourists from all over the neighboring countries gather here, and any person, regardless of gender, nationality and religious beliefs, can attend the events.

There are strict rules of conduct on the territory of the monastery estate:

• it is allowed to park the car only at separate areas for this, passage into the protected area is prohibited for all types of vehicles, except for official ones;
• it is possible to pitch tents only by prior agreement with the abbot and in strictly established areas;
• it is strictly forbidden to turn on non-religious music;
• felling of trees, grazing of farm animals and birds, mowing of grass, collection of fruits and plants in the garden are not allowed;
• walking with dogs is possible only with muzzles and on a leash;
• you can enter the territory of the temple itself only accompanied by the servants of the monastery;
• visitors must wear appropriate attire.

Currently, construction works on reconstruction are continuing in the monastery premises, therefore, entry to the following construction sites is prohibited:

• flights of stairs leading from the first to the second floor;
• towers and basements;
• the first floor of the fraternal building.

Surb-Khach is located in a rather picturesque place - it seems to be lost in the foothill deciduous forest. There are no residential buildings or highways near it, the place is extremely secluded and calm. No noises of the city reach here, only the trills of birds and the church melody coming from the temple are heard.

The monastery is located in the Kirovsky district of the Old Crimea, but this is only a general address. In order to find the right path, you need a lot of specifics. The best landmark can be called the foot of the Monastery Mountain. It is located between the famous Crimean resorts - Sudak and Feodosia.

Hikers usually get off at Stary Krym station, and then move along the road in a westerly direction. In the place where it intersects with Lenin Street, you should turn in the direction of the mountain and leave the village along the very first lane (this is about 700 meters). After crossing the small river Churuk-Su, you should follow the road, which raises travelers to the historical and spiritual treasure of the entire Armenian people.

For information on how to get to the Surb-Khach monastery in Crimea, see the next video.