All about the Genoese fortress in Sudak

The Genoese Fortress is a unique defensive complex made by inventive Genoese in the romantic style of the Middle Ages. As a stronghold for the colonies of the northern Black Sea region, the fortress covered the entrance to the Sudak Bay. "The most picturesque historical ruins" - this is how the famous writer-historian MP Pogodin defined this area. Nevertheless, today the definition of "ruins" will not be entirely fair.

Nowadays the Sudak Fortress is a world famous museum. Of the unique buildings of the 10th – 15th centuries on its territory, the following are preserved and partially reconstructed: mighty fortress walls, Dozornaya (Maiden) and Portovaya towers, Consular castle, a number of famous religious buildings, surviving elements of residential buildings and seaside fortifications of the 6th century.

The city-fortress during a long and eventful life at different times bore different names - Sudak, Sugdeya, Soldadiya, Surozh. History remembers when the Black Sea was called the Sourozh Sea, and where the epic Sourozh warriors fought desperately and courageously. The city of Sudak was conquered by the Khazars and Alans, Cumans and Greeks, Russians and Tatars, Italians and Turks.

It was from Surozh that the famous Surozh wines were delivered throughout Europe. The uncle of the famous navigator Marco Polo built his trading post here. The rugged coastal cliffs of the famous cape keep many historical secrets. The geography of Sudak is so profitable and unique that in the 18th century, when Crimea became the fiefdom of Russia, it was here that they planned to move the capital of Tavria.

The Genoese (Sudak) fortress is a defensive complex built in the 7th century AD. NS.on an elevation 157 m high, which is a hardened coral reef with a smooth slope in the north and sharply steep on the south side. Inaccessible from the east and south, steep from the west and vulnerable only from the north, the mountain was an ideal place for the construction of a fortified area covering the bay.

Thus, the favorable location of the territory, competent design and creation of defensive structures made the fortified area practically impregnable:

• from the west - difficult to access;
• from the south and east protected by sheer mountain formations sliding down to the coast;
• from the northeast - covered with a special moat.

The fortress is located near Sudak within a pleasant walking distance. Strictly speaking, it is not entirely logical to attribute it exclusively to Genoese times. Long before that, the fortified city of Sugdeya, which belonged to Byzantium, was located here.

Many fortified areas of the region date back to the Byzantine period of rule. In the Genoese times, many fortifications were built in the Crimea, for example, Kafa, Chembalo, Vosporo, Yalita (Yalta) and others. All of these are now famous cities and favorite vacation spots. Any of them may well be called Genoese. Exactly because of this reason it would be more correct to call the fortress Sudak (according to its location).

There are other names for the fortress - Sugdeya (in Greek), Soldaya (European), Sugdak (Persian). In accordance with the main hypothesis, the Sugdei settlement was rebuilt in 212 AD. NS. According to one of the existing versions, the Alans were its indigenous inhabitants. This is evidenced by the records of monks in the annals of Sinaxar Sugdei.

In the 6th century Byzantium ruled the region. In the VIII century - the Khazars, and in the X - Sugdeya again passed to the Byzantines. Since the end of the 11th century, the territory was under the protectorate of the Polovtsians. XIII century - Sugdeya was conquered by the Golden Horde. During the time of troubles in the Horde in 1365, the Genoese conquered it.

At that time, by agreement with the Mongol Khanate, Genoa already owned factories in the Cafe. This is how the Genoese page began in the history of the fortress, but not for long. In 1475, the warlike Turks conquered several fortresses in the seaside at once, and then the principality of Theodoro itself. In 1771, the fortress was already conquered by Russian troops, where the cavalrymen of the Kirillov regiment were quartered.

Today, thanks to the huge volume of restoration work carried out, the Genoese Fortress is rather a a complete architectural monument, rather than just historical ruins... Nevertheless, it was not possible to restore the entire ancient fortification.

The main fortifications include the Consular Castle and 14 towers up to 15 meters high. The total area of ​​the fortified area is approximately 30 hectares. Limestone fortress walls are made in 2 tiers (2 defense belts). The walls of the first line are up to 8 meters high and up to 2 meters thick. Residential and religious buildings were located between the walls on the terraces. The terraces were sectorally divided by the streets that climbed up to the consuls' castle. The artisan buildings were prudently located behind the main wall due to their potential fire.

The first defensive belt of the fortification consists of a castle for the consuls and St. George, Nameless, Watchtowers. The fortress belts in the north-east and north-west included two fortified zones, between them there were gates and additional fortified structures. Two towers were erected along the edges of the entrance opening: G. Torsello and Bernabo di Pagano. In a harmonious and impregnable defensive complex, all the fortifications were united by a powerful wall connecting them.

Above the main gate there is a slab indicating the date of the construction of the entire defensive structure (1389).From the northeast, the fortification is represented by three more tower structures: Luchini de Flisco Lavane, Corrado Chicalo, Pasquale Giudice. From the north-west of the fortified area, not far from the entrance gates, one can see tower structures: Cornerstone, Gvarko Rumbaldo, J. Marione.

The fortress became the Russian property in 1783. During this period, the fortress buildings were decaying. Nevertheless, the restoration work carried out in the twentieth century made it possible to preserve individual buildings and, albeit partially, the destroyed walls.

The consular castle as a whole was preserved. Its closed courtyard is represented by the quadrangular donjon tower (the main residence of the consuls) and the Corner one with dividing walls. In its utility rooms (on the first tier), at one time there was a massive container with drinking water (supplied, by the way, through clay water pipes). The entire structure of the castle is crowned with a toothed arcature belt. The side passage of the building connects it with the St. George Tower, which has largely retained its original features.

The highest point of the fortress is the Watchtower (160 m), which was built between the 10th and 13th centuries. Its second name is the Castle of St. Elijah. In shape, it is made in the form of a quadrangle and now functions as an observation platform.

In the lower defense sector, there is a relatively well-restored Main Gate complex, which includes:

• barbican;
• bridge;
• moat;
• the towers of Bernabo di Pagano and G. Torselli;
• Battisto di Zoaglio - portal (dividing wall).

The Barbican is a complementary defensive structure, protruding slightly forward and preceding the entrance gate. In ancient times, it was surrounded by a defensive moat with a bridge, which greatly hampered the attempts of the attacking enemy to penetrate into the fortress. At night, the bridge was raised, and the guards carried their patrol on the towers. The garrison in the fortress was not large (several dozen soldiers), but in case of danger it was largely replenished with local residents.

The enemy, who had overcome the barbican, was presented with massive lifting gates, where he came under intense shelling from the height of the walls and towers. The entrance is formed by two gate towers: from the west - G. Torselli, from the east - Barnabo di Pagano. Information on the slabs laid on the towers says that the first was erected in 1385, and the second in 1414. The inscriptions also reflect the names of the stewards-consuls, under whose rule these structures were built.

The surviving structures located on the north-western line of defense are unique. Among them are the towers: G. Marione and Guarco Rumbaldo. The first was erected in 1388, and its four-sided shape was slightly later equipped with a superstructure - another tier, where a special passage with a parapet was located. The second tower in 3 tiers was built in 1394. The towers are separated by curtains.

Moving to the northeastern zone, which belongs to the lower fortified line, we find the stately tower of Pasquale Giudice. This multi-layered open creation was completed in 1392. Not inferior to him in beauty is the semicircular structure, which sharply contrasts against the background of the entire defensive system with its unusual forms, and also complements the system - the Corrado Chikalo turret, erected in 1404.

From the port fortifications, only the square-shaped tower of F. Astagvera (Portovaya), which adorned the complex in 1386, has survived to us.

The Sudak Fortress is remarkable not only for its tower structures, but also for the temple with an arcade, erected by the Turks. At the end of the 18th century, the building changed its purpose several times. Mosque, cathedral, Armenian temple, church - such is its rich history. Today it houses a museum of archeology, with many rich and interesting exhibitions.

The city can be reached from Simferopol or Feodosia by regular bus. You can conveniently get from Alushta or Feodosia by boat.

Getting to the place by our own vehicle, we are looking for street in Sudak. Lenin and follow it to the village of Novy Svet. In the direction of travel, the street continues to the Tourist Highway. Then we follow the "Sugar Loaf" (remains on the left), from where the Sudak fortress will already be visible. Near the Uyutnoye Selo bus stop there is a paid parking lot (sightseeing buses arrive here), where there is always the possibility of parking.

For promotion by public transport, the stop "Selo Uyutnoe" will serve as a reference point. From the bus station to this landmark there are fixed-route taxis №6 and №5 (follows to Novy Svet).

Moving towards the fortress, you will come across a completely civilized wish tree. Decorated with symbolic ribbons sold here, the tree looks very elegant. Making a wish on such a special historical place is a truly memorable event.

The construction of the fortress lasted from 1371 to 1469 - almost a century. The result of the inspired work of ancient craftsmen was a powerful, long-lasting complex of defensive structures, in compliance with all the rules of European fortification. The builders named each of the 14 towers erected in honor of the consuls who ruled Sugdeya during the construction of the corresponding object. The proof of this is the embedded plates of the towers, on which inscriptions and heraldry are engraved.

Quite often, all kinds of historical reconstructions, festival performances and exhibitions are held in the fortress, but the main thing is a large-scale reconstruction of knightly battles "Genoese helmet". Throughout the season, a souvenir fair is open, and a picturesque pirate, a kind of Jack Sparrow with a dead man's chest, is "acting villainously" on the barbican. You can see the announcements of the events on the Sudak Fortress website.

August is the best time to get to know the fortress. It is in August that the knightly performance "Genoese helmet" is held. Taking part in the reconstruction of scenes from the life of medieval knights, townspeople and artisans, you will be impressed for a long time. Knightly tournaments are held according to all the rules of fencing duels and almost really show the audience the strength, dexterity and prowess of the knights. Fights are held in the nominations: "sword-shield", "two-handed sword", "ax-shield", "sword-sword", "spear-shield" and others.

The culmination of the holiday is a massive battle, buhurt. At first, the knightly groups fight according to the staged plan. Models of siege engines, pyrotechnic devices, and battering rams take part in the battles. This is followed by a combat unit, in which each knight conducts combat actions according to his plan in order to win.

The fortress often takes part in filming. The uniqueness and photogenicity of the fortress attracts many famous directors here. The films "Othello", "Pirates of the XX century", "Hamlet", "Amphibian Man", "Primordial Russia", "Viking" were filmed here.

In 2004, the television series The Master and Margarita was created by director V. Bortko (episodes on Calvary)... Hence the name "Sudak Golgotha" originated. Here, in 1994, Y. Kara shot his picture "The Master and Margarita". Due to some disagreements, the picture was shown in private viewing at the XXVIII Film Festival. It appeared in the open box office only in 2011.

Rock "Sugarloaf" (Golgotha) is a small part of the reef on which climbers train (and there were even victims). The views from it are impressive.

Walking around the fortress, you will find on its territory two large tanks (185 m3 and 350 m3) for water supplies, which entered them from the surrounding hills through special clay water conduits. The famous museum of numismatics now functions in a larger capacity.

In the 13th century, the Venetian merchant M. Polo opened his trading business in Sugdey, whose nephew, later the famous navigator Marco Polo, often visited his uncle, showing no particular zeal for his business affairs.

If you carefully examine the walls of the citadel, then it is easy to see reddish lines on them, indicating the visual border between the ancient masonry and the modern superstructure, made in the process of restoration.

Based on the many positive reviews of tourists who visited the Sudak Fortress, we can rightfully say that this is one of the few places in Russia and not only where a good rest so thoroughly and romantically merges with the cognitive aspects of world history.

The gray and harsh antiquity that has come down to our days makes one directly feel the mysterious connection of times and re-perceive himself and the world around him in a new way. You can be sure that this new attitude, received by you during a kind of travel in time, will never leave you.

A video review of the Genoese fortress in Sudak, see below.