Wet chemistry for short, medium and long hair
In their desire to look spectacular in any situation, women are ready for any beauty experiments and a wide variety of hair styling technologies. That is why today wet chemistry, which has returned to us from the late 90s, has come into fashion again. And if in previous years it was done mainly in salons, today more and more women of fashion prefer to get tight curls at home.
What it is?
Wet chemistry is a type of styling that is done using special preparations. After this treatment, the curls are additionally covered with foams, mousses or varnish to the middle of the strand, and the root zone is left intact. As a result of this technique, the hair near the roots becomes voluminous, and the ends look as if they were caught in a light rain. Modern technologies allow you to achieve thick and shiny curls, while the hairstyle remains well-groomed, beautiful and natural.
The curling of the strands occurs due to the fact that the density of protein bonds in the hair shaft weakens as a result of exposure to aggressive compounds, while the scales open. Thanks to this, the curls twisted on the bobbins take the necessary shape.
In order for the perm to last for a long time, the curls should be additionally fixed with a weak solution of hydrogen peroxide. This restores the structure of carotene and returns the flakes to a closed state, but in a new position.
The elasticity and durability of the curling is ensured by:
- high quality composition;
- the correct time for its exposure to curls;
- individual characteristics;
- heating more than 20 degrees.
Keep in mind that any repeated chemistry will be much less successful than the first, and it will last much less. The fact is that the destroyed protein keratin reacts weaker to influences, so the hair stops curling. Repeated chemistry only makes sense after the hair grows back.
Wet perms are not suitable for all women. Since the curls are under severe stress during the procedure, you should not resort to this technique if you have weak and damaged hair. In this case, it makes sense to first carry out a course of restorative procedures and only after that contact the master.
In addition, there are several contraindications to perm. These include:
- period of pregnancy and lactation;
- high blood pressure;
- fever and fever;
- taking antibiotics, as well as hormonal and chemotherapy;
- at the stage of recovery after a long illness, during diets and other conditions in which the body is exposed to stress, physical and nervous overload.
Advantages and disadvantages
Wet chemistry has many advantages:
- additional volume in the root zone without the effect of fluffy curls;
- saving personal time and effort for daily styling - hair looks aesthetically pleasing even without laborious styling;
- reduction of hair greasiness;
- natural effect;
- versatility - this type of chemistry looks good on hair of any length and type.
It should also be noted that most modern drugs are very different from the original formulations - most of the products of large cosmetic brands use gentle components and enrich them with vitamin and mineral complexes.
However, it was not without its drawbacks.
- The perm effect lasts from 3-4 weeks to six months. This largely depends on the individual characteristics and the degree of aggressiveness of the active substance.
- Even the most modern drugs injure the curls, lead to their dryness, brittleness and split, so we are not talking about completely safe chemistry. At this stage, a woman can only choose the lesser of evils.
- Some hair types are thick and dense, and are resistant to drugs.
- The procedure cannot be applied to newly toned hairstyles. From the moment of coloring, at least 15-20 days should pass.
- Make sure to trim the ends before curling.
Keep in mind that wet chemistry performed in the salon is a very expensive procedure, so you should first discuss all its subtleties, taking into account the hair structure, with a professional master, otherwise there is a high probability that the money will be wasted.
Views
There are 2 main versions of wet chemistry.
- Vertical the curling is done exclusively for long curls, while the strands are twisted into a tight tourniquet and wrapped around the cone-shaped curlers. It is imperative that the hair is snug and curled in the same direction. As a result of all the manipulations, spectacular large spirals are obtained.
- Japanese chemistry Is the optimal solution for problem hair. It is also used by women with problem skin. In the process of work, a protein-lipid complex is used, which allows to achieve maximum shine and elasticity of the curl. To carry out the curling, put on a plastic cap with small holes on the head. Through them, strands are pulled and processed, so the scalp remains unaffected. Such a perm does not injure the hair follicles and is considered to be more gentle.
Depending on the characteristics of the active composition, wet chemistry is divided into the following types:
- acidic - this is one of the most persistent perms, the effect lasts up to six months, however, the method is not used on thin and thin hair;
- alkaline - it acts more sparingly, but the effect is shorter, curls last no more than 4-4.5 months;
- neutral - the composition is very gentle on the hair, but the curl lasts a maximum of 3 months;
- amino acid - mainly suitable for carving and light chemistry; when using such preparations, the hair additionally receives the necessary treatment and additional nutrition.
Several types of bobbins can be used for wet curling:
- American - have a special shape, which makes it possible to tightly fix the strands to each other, there are no elastic bands;
- Japanese - are distinguished by the absence of the usual "waist";
- spiral - equipped with removable plastic clamps;
- wagers - supplemented with a plastic hairpin, which is responsible for holding the hair;
- all kinds of creative shapers.
Each type of bobbin is designed to design curls on hair of different types, the structure of the curls and the length of the hair are also important when choosing.
Preparing for the procedure
Perm, even with the use of the most gentle preparations, assumes a rather aggressive effect on the hair - it becomes more fragile, thin and split. That is why the hairstyle should be prepared for such a procedure. For a month, a couple of times a week, make nourishing and moisturizing hair masks containing vitamin and mineral complexes, oils and proteins. Complement the effect with the intake of vitamins - internal support is just as important as external support. Be sure to visit your hairdresser and get rid of split ends.
Keep in mind that if you dyed your hair, then you can do chemistry no earlier than two weeks after toning.
On the day of the procedure, wash your hair thoroughly. Some old-fashioned masters recommend using laundry soap for this, but nowadays there is a large selection of deep-acting shampoos. It is better to give preference to them - so the strands will better perceive active drugs.
Be sure to test for an allergic reaction, first on the skin. To do this, lubricate the area at the bend of the hand with a diluted compound and observe the reaction. If swelling, redness, rash, or other adverse effects develop, it is best to use a different perm product.
Separately, you need to look at the reaction of the hair - select a small lock on the back of the head and apply the preparation on it. If your hair darkens, you run the risk of burning it out and instead of luxurious curls, you get hair remnants bristling in different directions.
Only after that you can proceed directly to staining.
Execution technique
The technique of performing chemistry for long and medium strands includes several main stages.
- The strands from the back of the head are divided into squares so that the side is equal to the length of the bobbin, each is fixed with clamps.
- The curls are wound on papillotes and fixed with rubber clips.
- Vaseline or oily baby cream is abundantly applied to the skin near the hairline, and then a soft towel rolled into a tight tourniquet is applied on top.
- In accordance with the instructions, a mixture is made for performing a wet perm and the hair is treated with a foam sponge.
- For a more effective effect, put on an insulating cap and hold the required time.
- Having removed the cap, the hair is washed without removing the bobbins.
- A fixative is applied and kept on the head for 10-15 minutes. After the allotted time, the hair is washed, the curlers are unrolled and again washed with shampoo.
- At the end, the curls are rinsed with a weak solution of apple cider vinegar.
If you have bangs, you can leave it uncurled.
A master class of perm and styling with the effect of wet hair at home, see below.
How long does the effect last?
The maximum wet chemistry lasts 6 months, however, during this time, the curls under the influence of external factors and the severity of the heap gradually unwind, so with each month the waviness is less and less noticeable. However, there are cases when the perm lasted up to 7-8 months. The length of the hairstyle is influenced by the size and shape of the bobbins, the structure and length of the strands, the holding time of the fixing composition. Of no small importance is the mixture itself for chemistry, since some formulations keep curls better than others. For example, the effect of carving compositions wears off rather quickly.
A curl made with large curls lasts longer than a curl.
Care
Any chemistry damages the curls and makes them dry, so the strands begin to get tangled and difficult to comb. The situation can only be corrected by taking proper care of them. For washing, opt for healing shampoos, complementing them with moisturizing balms, oils and serums with nourishing ingredients. Such measures are especially necessary in relation to long hair, since wet chemistry is done on them using concentrated mixtures, and the holding time is longer than for short and medium strands. At the same time, shampoo is rubbed only into the root area and scalp.
Hair is dried immediately after washing without using a hair dryer and a dryer, you do not need to rub it - it is enough to lightly blot it with a waffle towel.
You can comb the curls only after they have dried. Also, you should not go to bed with wet strands - in this case, creases appear, which not only spoil the picture, but also contribute to brittle hair.
How to make a regenerating hair mask, see below.