Chuvash national costume
The history of the Chuvash folk costume
The formation of the Chuvash folk costume took place under the influence of the place where the Chuvash lived, who adopted many of the little things and details of the clothes of their closest neighbors. The traditional outfits of the viryal (they are also the Supreme Chuvash) from the Cheboksary region quite strongly resembled the costumes of the Finno-Ugric people of Russia in their simplicity and moderation of constructive elements.
The grassroots Chuvash, they are also Antari, used various frills when sewing dresses and suits, and a rich red was chosen as the color of the apron. Towels and aprons had unusual embroidery with colored threads of various shades. The costumes, dresses, bibs and headdresses of the Chuvashes of the Samara region have many similarities with the Mordovian national costumes.
Chuvash costumes materials
For quite a long time, the Chuvash were engaged in the manufacture of fabric and various natural dyes on their own. It took a lot of time to dye the yarn, which is why the main color of suits and dresses was ordinary white.
Soon, the antari acquired aniline dyes, which greatly facilitated the process of dyeing yarn, and this gave impetus to the development of the production of such a material as motley. Then the motley garments were replaced with ordinary white suits. The Virjals did not use motley at all in the manufacture of clothes and dresses.
Suit colors
White personified purity and was the main color in traditional costumes and dresses of the Chuvash. A fresh white shirt was worn for various holidays and festivities. Often, rich red was also combined with the main white color, which also symbolized purity, holiness and life, therefore, almost all the seams of suits and dresses were covered with red braid.
For the manufacture of clothes, the Chuvash used a special fabric made of threads of different colors (such a fabric was called a pestryad) and they began to dress up in dresses and shirts made of this material both for various celebrations and for ordinary work in the field. This was extremely dissatisfied and worried about the older generation, which is why sometimes a categorical ban on garments made of motley came into force, and if this rule was violated, 41 buckets of ice water were poured over the violator.
Outfit design
A white shirt (aka kepe) was an integral part of both women's and men's folk costumes. The design of the shirt was quite simple: a canvas of hemp was folded, and wedges were sewn into the sides, expanding the shirt at the bottom. Shirts for women's suits were made with a length of 120 cm and a cutout in the center on the chest. Men's shirts had similar cutouts on the sides.
Men's suits
Initially, Chuvash shirts with a belt for men were made free and long (up to the knees). Men's clothes had various rich and festive embroideries, appliques and silk patterns, while simple costumes, not intended for holidays, were quite laconic and strict and no patterns were applied to them.
In the distant past, men were required to wear clean snow-white shirts for pagan rituals. With the development of new technologies, the Chuvash folk costume for men acquired a collar and became more modern, with smooth lines of round armholes. Men's caftans and attire, intended for various holidays, were lavishly decorated in the area of the chest and collar, as well as along the edges of clothing.
Womens suits
Chuvash traditional shirts for married women had rather complex embroidery of an unusual shape, while the hem with geometric stripes and stripes was distinguished by modesty and simplicity. During holidays and ordinary weekdays, women wore a special material on their hips with fringes, patterns and patches made of silk and woolen threads.
Unmarried girls wore modest outfits without embroidery and patterns, so as not to distract attention from their own beauty.
Women's jewelry with beads
Sets of jewelry with silver coins, bead details and expensive stones are:
- women's headdresses (hushpu);
- dresses for the neck and chest (among the Chuvash they are called ama, alka, may);
- bracelets and rings (they are also sul and sera);
- a small mirror, which is attached to the belt (töker);
- belt purse (enchek)
- belt pendants (yos hure).
Wedding suit
The Chuvash wedding dress had the following interesting details:
- the bride's dress was decorated with beads, shells and coins, creating a large and complex pattern, complemented by a special headdress;
- the shirt, apron and outerwear of the bride were decorated with chic embroidery, in addition, the girl put on rings, bracelets, pendants and a wallet with a small mirror on her belt (it is worth noting that this outfit weighed about 16 kg.);
- the Chuvash wedding costume had one important detail, such as - perkenchek (large white material or bedspread) with rich embroidery along the edges, under which the bride was for a certain time, after which the bedspread was removed and the girl was changed into a suit of a married woman;
- the groom dressed up in a shirt and a caftan with a wide colored belt, and also put on gloves, boots and a fur hat with a coin in the forehead.
Children's suits
Children's Chuvash folk costumes were distinguished by the richness and luxury of embroidery. Clothes for girls were quite simple and were decorated with braid or simple patterns that were sewn to the hem. The head was covered with the usual ornaments with beads and braid. Older girls wore a beaded jewelry that was attached to the belt from the back.
The costumes for little men were quite simple and differed only in a bright ornament on the collar.
Women's hats and bedspreads
In ancient times, women's Chuvash headdresses were represented by hats and bedspreads.
The bedspreads included surpans (headbands) of various lengths, turbans, headscarves and bridal bedspreads, which were intended exclusively for married women.
A long or short (with narrower patterns) surpan of the grassroots Chuvash completely covered the head, and its edges were generously embroidered and decorated with patterned stripes, ornaments and lace. Surpans of riding Chuvash were rather short and were decorated with embroideries on both sides, representing interesting ornaments, embroidered in tiers, as well as fringes and beads at the ends. Headdresses and headbands varied quite strongly among the groups.
Jewelry-amulets
The rich national costume of the Chuvash woman contains a lot of small, but quite important details and ornaments, indicating the belonging, age and social status of a woman.
Numerous adornments of women's outfits (coins, shells, beads) are primarily protection from evil spirits, enemies and various dangers. For holidays or weddings, Chuvash women wore a full set of jewelry-amulets, which weighed more than 10 kg.
Shoes
In the summer season, Chuvash men and women wore bast shoes. This shoe was woven in various and rather cunning ways, which is why some models have survived to this day and are currently in the museum. Comfortable cloth gaiters were worn with bast shoes. When winter came, the Chuvash removed their bast shoes and put on warm felt boots, without which it was simply impossible to do.
At the end of the 19th century, it became a tradition to donate leather boots to sons and leather boots to a daughter for weddings, which were subsequently worn extremely rarely and were very cherished.
Modern fashion of Chuvashia
Currently, the traditional national costume of the Chuvash has lost its relevance and only in some villages and villages Chuvash outfits are worn during holidays or rituals.
National costume is often used during various concerts and performances of folklore groups. Fashion designers no longer rely in their designs on traditional costumes and shirts, but use some similar images, in an attempt to produce all the details of folk jewelry, ornaments and patterns.