Indian costume
![Indian costume](https://fashion.decorexpro.com/images/article/croppedtop/450-255/2017/03/indijskij-kostyum.png)
Indian national costumes are very diverse and vary depending on nationality, geography, climate and cultural traditions. The materials used for the manufacture of clothing have a different weaving structure, fiber thickness, color and characteristic ornament. Moreover, designs on fabric are often done using embroidery.
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A bit of history
During the excavations, numerous bone needles and spinning wheels were found dating back about five thousand years BC. Recent research suggests that it is possible that Indians mastered the process of making and processing silk long before the Chinese civilization, which is traditionally considered to be the discoverer of silk fabrics.
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Various weaving techniques were used in ancient India, many of which have survived to this day. Silk and cotton have been woven into different designs and motifs, with each region developing its own distinct style and technique. Under the influence of the culture of Ancient Persia, Indian craftsmen began to embroider fabrics with gold and silver threads.
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Clothing dyeing was practiced as an art form in ancient India. Five primary colors were identified, and complex colors were classified according to their many shades. Dyeing masters distinguished 5 shades of white. The mordant dyeing technique has been widespread in India since the second millennium BC.
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For the manufacture of their costumes, the Indians also used another material - linen. Flax is ideally suited for its qualities and properties for the hot humid climate of India.
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In the north of the country, the Kashmir shawl is often used. It is made from fine goat hair. It warms up perfectly on cool evenings.
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The Indians are very fond of brocade. Caftans are often sewn from this fabric embroidered with gold.
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Women's national costume
In India, the options for women's costume are extremely multifaceted, and are inextricably linked with the living conditions, traditions of each region separately. She is always incredibly beautiful, exquisite and replete with a variety of ornaments, embroidery and adornments.
The manufacture of these outfits requires special skill, which is why Indian tailors are highly respected by the population.
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Sari
The traditional dress, the sari, has gained worldwide fame. A sari is a strip of ripped fabric, from four to nine meters in length, which can be thrown over the body in a variety of variations. The most common style of wearing a saree is when the fabric is wrapped around the waist with one end, and the other end is draped over the shoulder, exposing the belly. Silk sarees are considered the most elegant.
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For special occasions or weddings, the sari is custom made. The artist uses exclusive colors and patterns to create a unique look. An interesting fact is that after the order is completed, all sketches are burned. Therefore, no two holiday sarees are the same.
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Sari has a different name in different parts of the country. In the south of India, a snow-white sari decorated with a gold border, which is used only on special occasions, is called kavanis. Mundu is called a casual sari in light colors. In Tamil Nadu it is called Padawai.
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Sari is usually worn together with a short blouse with short sleeves and a deep cut on the chest that slightly reveals the belly - choli.
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Mundum-neryathum
The oldest type of saree. It is worn without choli. Since it completely covers the hips, chest and abdomen of the woman, leaving the shoulders bare.
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Lehenga-choli
This is also a variant of the women's traditional costume. It is a skirt (lenga) of various lengths, strongly flared and similar to an umbrella and choli. The length of lengi depends on the age and status of the woman.
Representatives of the higher castes can afford a skirt of the maximum length. Festive lehenga-choli is sewn from expensive fabrics, embroidered with beads and gold, and can be of various colors. Although until recently, only red clothing was considered solemn.
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For young girls, the traditional costume consists of lengi, choli and a stole, which they put on themselves like a sari. When they come of age, they already prefer to wear a classic saree.
Salwar Kameez
Or shalwar-kameez - another type of national female dress, most common in the northwestern parts of the country (Punjab region). It is very popular with the female population, especially young girls. Consists of loose trousers (salwar) narrow at the very bottom at the ankles, and a tunic (kameez), flared at the bottom and having slits on the sides. Shalwar drapes beautifully in many folds.
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Very often, together with salwar kameez, women wear a veil that covers their heads. It is called dupatta. In ancient times, only Indian women of the highest castes could afford to wear dupattu. Now it is available to everyone and is an integral part of a festive costume. Dupattu is sewn from chiffon, brocade, silk, cotton - it depends on the style of salwar kamiz.
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Salwar Kameez is most popular with Bollywood stars.
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Pattu pawadai
This dress is for a little Indian girl. The traditional children's costume is made of silk. This is a tunic that falls almost to the toes. Pavada is the most popular among the population of South India. During important ceremonies, children dress up in this costume.
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Churidar-kurta
It is one of the types of shalwar kamiz. In this case, the pants (churidar) are tapered and fit the leg very tightly just below the knee. These trousers go well with an elongated tunic (kurta). Unlike kameez, the kurta has a loose cut, shorter with a rounded hem.
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Anarkali
Luxurious lightweight flared dress.Anarkali always has a high waist and is long enough to be worn separately without being combined with pants. This is exactly what attracted European women. Who like to use Indian style outfits lately. Anarkali perfectly hides the flaws of any figure.
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Mekkhela-chador
Attire typical for Assamese women.
This sophisticated costume consists of three parts:
- The lower part is called mekkhela. This is a fairly wide piece of fabric, which is folded, forming many folds on the right side, and wrapped around the belt. Despite the presence of ribbons on the fabric, they are not tied.
- The second part of the costume is chador. This is a fabric that has triangular folds and is very long. She covers the woman's torso from above.
- And the last part is riha. It is worn last over the chador.
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This costume is not suitable for everyday wear, it is used in special situations, at important celebrations.
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Men's national costume
Men's national clothing, like women's, is unique and distinctive, but at the same time it is not devoid of convenience and elegance. No holiday or celebration is possible without wearing a traditional costume.
- Dhoti is a long, up to 6 meters long cotton cloth of a light, most often white shade. This fabric is wrapped around the thighs so that the ends are passed between the legs and tied in a knot at the waist. Such a structure is attached to the belt, the decoration of which indicates the status of the owner. Paintings and ornaments on the belt are an integral part of a wealthy Indian.
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The length of the dhoti, like lengi for women, differs depending on the social status of the man. Ordinary residents of rural areas wear shortened dhoti, as it is more convenient and does not interfere with work. Due to the influence of Western culture, dhoti is increasingly being replaced by ordinary European clothing. But it is still an integral part of official events.
Dhoti is worn with a regular shirt or with a kurta - an elongated straight-cut shirt that reaches the knees.
- Lungi is a long canvas, sometimes in the form of a skirt. It is wrapped around the legs and hips of a man. Lungi is very popular in the south of the country, as it is difficult to wear regular pants in high heat and humidity. And lungi allows shelter from the heat without obstructing ventilation.
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- Shervani is an elongated jacket or frock coat, the length of which reaches the knees. Fastening with all buttons is a prerequisite for wearing. Looks good with both wide trousers and narrow churidars. Ideal for tall men. Local rajas do not skimp, acquiring shervanis, embroider them with gold, precious stones, satin. After all, nothing adds grace and stature like a luxurious shervani.
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- The most famous headdress in the Indian national costume was and remains the turban. There are so many provinces in India, so many turban variants can be found while traveling around the country. Now the original purpose of the turban is already forgotten to save the head from overheating on a hot afternoon. But the damp cloth, tightly wrapped around the head, chilled most of the day, giving freshness.
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Now a turban is an indicator of the owner's status, his religiosity. There are different types of this headdress. The most famous model is Mysore Peta, without which the costume of the Indian Raja could not do.
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An additional element of the male costume of the representative of the highest caste was a cord, which the Indians considered sacred. It had to be worn over clothing, girdling itself through the chest and back.
Indian dance costumes
Indian dance, like Indian costume, is inimitable and unique. There are a lot of styles and trends in it, therefore there are also a great variety of dance costumes. In saris, classical Indian dances, kathak and pop dances are usually danced.For the bharatanatyam style, the famous dancer Rukmini Devi Arundale modified the sari, giving it the look of a wide "pajamas". An obligatory element of this costume is a gold border framing the edges of the dress elements.
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The classical dance Mohiniattam is distinguished by its melody, gracefulness and beauty, therefore, the costumes of the dancers are always performed in white tones with gold trimmings. A golden apron, worn over a snow-white skirt, adds charm to the dance. This dance was created like the dance of the priestesses of the temple, therefore the costumes reflect this idea.
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If the dance is not classical, but stylized for it, then both Indian and modern music can be used. Therefore, such a dance allows the use of salwar kamiz, lehenga choli and other combinations of traditional clothing.
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Bollywood dance style is a very popular phenomenon in modern India. The dance attracts modern young people and girls with its energy and mass character. Therefore, costumes for the Bollywood style always have the same cut, length and style, but must be different in color. And only the soloist is allowed to stand out from the crowd.
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Children's dance costumes are usually not much different from adults, except for the length and amount of decorations. As a rule, girls wear cropped skirts, and the number of bracelets is kept to a minimum for the convenience of little dancers.
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The long-term colonization of India by Great Britain did not go unnoticed and was reflected in all spheres of Indian life. Western culture has left an indelible mark in the image of the modern Indian. More and more often you can find European jeans or T-shirts on the streets of the city. Children prefer modern clothes. Nevertheless, Indians highly value their culture and express their identity in every possible way, appearing at gala receptions, weddings and other significant events in traditional men's and women's national costumes.
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Conversely, trying to diversify their wardrobe and add elements of oriental flavor, European women are constantly using Indian-style elements in their looks.