Komi national costume
The Komi national costume is a book about the history of the people. Each piece of clothing is a description of life, everyday life, traditions, beliefs, customs, and culture. Therefore, preserving the national costume in all details and details means preserving the history of the nation.
History
Komi or Zyryans, as they were called in ancient times, lived in the north-east of Russia. The men were engaged in agriculture, fishing, hunting, animal husbandry, forestry. The women were engaged in the manufacture of clothing. From childhood, girls learned to weave linen from home-grown flax and hemp, spin sheep's wool, knit clothes from it and roll felt boots, sew outerwear and shoes.
Komi folk clothes embody the identity and national culture of the people.
Description of the outfit
Mens clothing
The men were undemanding in dress. A shirt-shirt, sewn from canvas, and trousers tucked into boots or knitted patterned stockings, as well as a narrow belt or wide sash.
The festive outfit differed mainly in the material from which it was made. The shirt was silk or satin, the belt was woven or leather, the pants were woolen. Outerwear in summer was a canvas robe, in autumn and winter - a caftan or sheepskin coat. The men's heads were covered with caps, hats made of cloth, felt, and fur.
An additional element of the hunters' clothing was a sleeveless jacket (luzan) made of thick coarse canvas or homespun cloth. An obligatory accessory to it was a leather belt, on which a hunter could attach a scabbard, a vessel with water and other things necessary in the forest.
The suit for men was of the same type for all residents of Komi. The exception was the outer winter clothing of the Izhemtsy, who lived in the very north.As reindeer breeders, they sewed clothes for the harsh polar winter from reindeer skins.
Womens clothing
The set of a woman's costume consisted of two main elements: a shirt and a sundress - this is the so-called sarafan complex. However, with such a minimum, the clothes of Komi residents amaze with their diversity. All kinds of her styles and types had different purposes.
Clothes were divided according to purpose, age, status, ethnographic affiliation.
The casual white or gray shirt was long. For sewing the upper part, which was in sight, they used a thin and high-quality fabric, the bottom was sewn from a coarse but durable fabric. The shirt was decorated with embroidery or fabric inserts of various colors and shades. A bright patterned sundress was worn on the shirt.
Expensive fabric and rich decorations were chosen for festive clothes. Wealthy people could afford dresses made of silk, satin or brocade, in winter a fur coat with fox or squirrel fur. The costume of a girl, a married woman, women of age differed in the shape of the headdress and the color of the sundresses.
The apron was also an element of the outfit; it was worn over a sundress. A sundress was girded with a patterned braided or woven belt.
The headdress was an important element of a woman's outfit, because it indicated the social status of its mistress. The girls were allowed not to hide their hair, not to wear headscarves; a hoop, a strip of fabric, a ribbon, a bandage served as a headdress. After getting married, women covered their hair with a scarf or kokoshnik. Older women wore dark colored headscarves.
The handkerchief was the most precious and desired gift. The scarves were decorated with long tassels, which were considered a talisman against evil and envy.
Shoes
Men's and women's shoes practically did not differ from each other: cats, boots, shoe covers. Winter boots were felt boots, felt boots. Residents of the southern regions put on shoes made of birch bark, northerners - in shoes made of reindeer fur. Stockings with patterns knitted from multi-colored wool were very popular among men and women.
Originality
National clothing, which has been created for a long time, is an inseparable link in the culture of the Komi people, which has absorbed the features of the traditional world outlook of the people.
Clothing models, their practicality, feasibility, design decision were largely due to climate conditions, the occupation of the people. Traditional costumes are diverse, colorful, showy, they serve as a supplement to the harsh nature of their native land.
Each ethnic group living on the territory of the Komi Republic - Sysolskaya, Udora, Luzsko-Lettskaya, Permian Komi, Izhemskaya, Priluzskaya, Upper and Nizhny Vychegodskaya, Vymskaya, Pechora - contributed their own nuances to the style and appearance of the national costume.
