Moldavian national costume

The national Moldovan costume is a vivid example of the unique creativity of folk craftsmen, an example of ancient customs, evidence of the deep interaction of the Moldovan ethnos with neighboring peoples.

Not so long ago, every craftswoman was obliged to independently make an outfit for herself. Moreover, copying intricacies and patterns was not allowed. By the nature of the pattern, the color scheme, the peculiarities of the cover, one could judge the social status of the girl, the inclinations of her character. A prerequisite was the harmony of the costume with the general appearance - the color of the eyes, hair, headdress.

Natural fabrics traditionally served as material for the manufacture of dense fabrics: wool, flax, hemp, cotton.

The material of the suit reflected the well-being of the family. Moldovans of modest means used hemp fabric, while the more affluent used linen or cotton, which was significantly more delicate than hemp. Moreover, the canvases themselves were often made at home. Silk was also used to make towels that served women to cover their heads.

The decorations of the Moldovan costume were directly related to the area in which this people lived. The fertility of the soil, the mild climate, rich harvests - everything was reflected in the embroidery and patterns on the fabric. The pattern in the form of leaves, flowers, bunches of grapes combined with a geometric embroidery pattern created a unique flavor of the Moldovan national costume.

The composition of the women's national costume traditionally includes the following components: headdress, outerwear, shoes, jewelry and accessories, which change depending on conditions.

Various details of the costume: the nature of the decoration, the cut of outerwear, the ornament and the color scheme testify not only to the social status and the type of occupation, but even to the age.

Thus, married women preferred quieter colors, simple cut and modest materials. Girls, on the other hand, wore bright and eye-catching outfits. Their costume often did not involve wearing a headdress and apron.

At the same time, it should be noted that some aspects of folk material and spiritual culture, including in the area of ​​costume, bear the imprint of the demographic structure of a particular ethnographic area.

A large number of Ukrainians live in the northern part of Moldova, and Gagauz and Bulgarians live together with Moldovans in the south. As a result of the mutual exchange of traditions, elements characteristic of other ethnic groups are included in the national costume of these geographic regions.

One of the main elements of the Moldovan costume is the shirt. Made of white fabric. It had a simple cut, reminiscent of a tunic with a square or round slit for the head.

The shirt was often decorated with simple geometric or floral designs. The color scheme is usually represented by 2-3 colors, but monochrome patterns and ornaments were also common.

The shirt was cut out of three rectangular parts: back, front and sleeves. The upper part is sewn with soft fabric and the lower part is heavy.

The set of the woman's national clothes included a skirt without fail. In the first place in popularity was the Katrina variety. It was especially typical for the north of Moldova. The fabric for this type of skirt is not sewn, but wrapped one floor after another. Such a canvas was attached to the belt. Girls additionally decorated such a skirt with a bright scarf. For her, only the highest quality peri-or de lîna wool was used.

There were two types of Katrina. In the first case, the top and bottom of the skirt differed in color, and in the second, the sides and central part. In general, casual skirts did not feature bright colors or patterns and were mostly black or brown. The festive version of the skirt was painted and embroidered with a floral pattern and colored threads.

In the south of the country, women wore only a “fota” skirt. The basis for her was two wool aprons. The “fusta” skirt was sewn from several wedge-shaped fabrics, which were decorated with multi-colored ribbons. Moldovan women began to use the canvas apron only at the end of the 19th century. By the appearance of the apron, one could recognize the status of a woman. Girls could wear it only after the wedding.

The vest was typical for summer, a sleeveless jacket made of wool, trimmed with fur, for winter. Also, warm sleeveless jackets were sewn from fur, from sheepskin from dense woolen fabric. The styles of outerwear could be very diverse.

The length, color, location of the cuts, the number of buckles and fasteners varied greatly in different parts of Moldova. But the common thing for outerwear in all regions was rich painting and embroidery of clothing. Multicolored laces, satin and silk ribbons, delicate lace, appliqués, cross stitch and satin stitch - all this could be found in folk costumes.

Headdresses were worn only by married women. At the wedding, the veil was removed from the bride and she was presented with the first headdress.

Until that moment, the girls decorated their braids only with wreaths of flowers, or even let their hair down altogether.

There were two types of attire: for special occasions "neframa" and everyday cîrpa:

• Cîrpa is a complex construction with a base of a wooden rim with horn-like ends wrapped in a scarf. The ends of the scarf covered the shoulders and chest.
• Neframa is a silk or cotton scarf tied in different ways, but in such a way that the embroidered and decorated ends are clearly visible.

In winter, women wore the same headwear, only weaving them from denser yarn or using hats similar to men's, with an edge made of animal fur.

The ancient Moldavian footwear was rawhide opinci. Just a piece of leather tied around the edge with a lace. They were worn everywhere.

In winter, only wealthy Moldovans wore boots or boots. Girls' shoes were rare. Sewn only for a solemn occasion, they were carefully preserved for several generations and passed on through the female line.

The men wore less flamboyant and colorful clothing. Cotton or linen shirts were worn outside and belted with various belts.

The oldest and most popular was the blouse, similar to a tunic with a round collar cut in the middle. Young guys mostly wore richly decorated blouses. The cuffs, the edges of the collar and the bottom of the shirt were embroidered with a small bright pattern.

A yoke shirt came into fashion at the beginning of the twentieth century and gradually gained popularity among the male population, displacing kosovorotki.

There were several varieties of trousers. Different fabrics and styles were used in different districts of Moldova:

• Izmene - lightweight casual pants made from natural materials (linen, hemp or cotton). Over time, this model moved into the category of underwear worn under thicker pants.
• Iari - white woolen tight trousers had a very long length, which is why they gathered on the shins in numerous folds. They were popular among shepherds in the northern regions of Moldova.
• Cioareci - a winter version of woolen trousers, often decorated with a simple geometric pattern around the waist.
• Meini - the warmest winter pants made from sheep skins. Usually worn only by shepherds because of the very long exposure to the cold.

Outerwear, like women's, was quite varied. Vests, woolen and fur sleeveless jackets, woolen long-brimmed coats also had a variety of cut and materials, depending on the season. Men's clothing was distinguished by a more modest pattern, fewer decorations and embroidery. Wealthy peasants could afford to sew a natural sheep's sheepskin coat.

Men's hats were not so varied and consisted of a cone-shaped sheep's hat in winter and a straw or felt hat in summer. The guys additionally decorated their hats with feathers or flowers.

In the Moldavian national costume, both men and women attached great importance to belts. They were talked about, given for weddings, believing that the right belt would bring happiness, prosperity or a good harvest. For women, they symbolized age, for men, wealth. Girls girdled skirts with silk or satin belts, and aged peasant women - with woolen belts.

Men from wealthy families made custom belts. They used leather with metal inserts, and the poor used a regular rope.

Looking at the Moldavian costume, one never ceases to be amazed at how much joy and positive energy the ancient masters were able to put into their products. Of course, in the modern world he has a place only at holidays, events dedicated to folk art and in museums. A complex pattern, bright colors, various elements make the national costume of Moldovans a work of art.