Eyebrows: rules and techniques for creating the perfect shape
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One of the ways to quickly transform the appearance, visually hiding the "problem" areas of the face - to change the shape of the eyebrows. Unfortunately, if it is selected without taking into account individual characteristics, even the most attractive face can take on an unnatural, dull, gloomy or overly surprised look. How to correct and dye your eyebrows?
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Peculiarities
Eyebrows can change facial expressions beyond recognition. This is why it is so important to learn how to choose the right shape. Too thin or unnaturally shaped eyebrows make the face look artificial. For girls with small facial features, excessively wide eyebrows should become taboo, they look comical.
Eyebrow shaping can be done both independently and by a professional.
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In general, the procedure is not difficult if armed with the right tools and the necessary knowledge.
Conditionally, the correction can be divided into long-term and short-term. Long-term means microblading, tattooing, after which the effect lasts for a period of one to several years.
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The short-term correction will continue until the hairs begin to grow back. On average, this is 2-3 weeks.
Eyebrow shaping is a procedure that violates the integrity of the skin, so it is important to ensure its safety. We are talking about disinfection of the work area, hands and materials, as well as disinfection of the eyebrow area after the procedure.
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Views
There are several common forms of eyebrows, however, before we consider their features, you should decide on some terms. The beginning, or head of the eyebrow, originates at the bridge of the nose.The middle or body is the main area of the eyebrow and includes the bend. The tip is also called the tail, usually it is narrower than the head and body of the eyebrow.
Regardless of the type chosen, the ideal shape assumes that 2/3 of the eyebrow falls on the head and body, and only 1/3 is the tip of the eyebrow after the break.
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Depending on where the head and tip lie, forms such as:
- Straight. In this case, the head and tail lie in the same plane, due to which it is possible to visually make the forehead wider and "correct" an overly elongated face.
- Ascending. In this case, the head is located just above the tip, the latter usually directed to the temples. Thanks to this shape, it is possible to narrow the face a little and stretch it.
- Descending. The tip of the eyebrow is slightly higher than the head - this shape is usually not used, and if this is a natural look, then it is better to correct it. The fact is that they give the face a dull expression.
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In addition, it is customary to distinguish the following forms:
- Rounded. They are characterized by a smooth arcuate bend, a rounded beginning and a tail. Usually this form is found in women of the oriental type. Suitable for square, diamond and rectangular faces, allows you to hide excessive "angularity" and roughness of features.
- Triangular. It is also called a "house", with a moderate bend and respect for proportions, this form looks elegant and flirty. If you do not follow these rules, the person takes on an amazed and unnatural expression.
- Curved. These are eyebrows with a break, a pronounced break. They invariably catch the eye and when the shape of the arch and the proportions of the eyebrows are changed, they suit almost every type.
Broken eyebrows allow you to divert attention from the "problem" areas of the face, visually rejuvenate.
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How to choose by face type?
The most harmonious face shape is considered to be oval. All other types, far from her, can be made more attractive with the help of different makeup tricks and the right shape of the eyebrows.
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So, chubby girls can be recommended eyebrows with a pronounced kink. They are characterized by a thin tip that begins to decrease in volume from the middle of the eyebrow. It is important to achieve a natural curve, and not turn the eyebrows into sharp "ticks".
For this type, you can also recommend the ascending eyebrows. They have a less pronounced bend, and the tip here does not tend downward, but towards the temple.
With a round face, both too wide and narrow eyebrows should be avoided. The former make the face even more massive and round, while the latter give the face an unnatural expression.
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For a square face, eyebrows with a noticeable break are also recommended; they should be made smooth, rounded at the base. The bend should be over the middle of the eye or the outer corner of the eye. It is recommended to extend the tip if necessary, the eyebrow should be slightly longer than usual. The tip should be directed to the temples. As for the width, it should be medium or slightly wider. Thin eyebrows look unattractive on a square face, making the already large lower part even more massive.
This shape is also suitable for a rectangular face. Wide straight eyebrows will look good on such a face. It is important not to move them too close, otherwise the face will take on an even more elongated shape. The tip of the eyebrow should be slightly sharpened and directed towards the temples.
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With a triangular type of face, the eyebrows should be slightly shorter, but at the same time quite thick, with a natural curve. The tip can be wrapped a little inward, giving it a more rounded shape.
If you have a heart-shaped face, it is important to choose eyebrows that balance the top and bottom of your face. For this, the optimal ascending eyebrows with a pronounced arch. They should not be guided to the lower part of the face, but should be directed to the temples. Do not choose too wide and thick eyebrows, they will weigh down the forehead area.
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A pear-shaped face requires a visual increase in the forehead and temples in order to balance these parts with the expanding lower cheek and chin area. Wide and thick eyebrows with a curve will do. The less expressive the eyes, the more noticeable the "arch" should be.
The bend should be moved closer to the outer corner of the eye.
For a diamond-shaped face, you should choose a rounded eyebrow shape or an option with a soft bend. Too sharp an arch will only emphasize the "angularity" of the face.
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The oval shape is not without reason considered one of the most successful, so its owners can afford almost any shape. Eyebrows of medium thickness with a soft break are considered classics. Arcuate ones give the image softness, romance. However, you should carefully consider the width of the eyebrow, the point of bending. Otherwise, the eyebrows will turn into "houses", giving the face an unnatural expression of constant amazement. Wide, ascending eyebrows suit an oval, but too thin, elongated face. They will visually make it a little more rounded.
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When choosing a shape, it is important not only to select it taking into account the shape of the face, but also focusing on the facial features. So, with close-set eyebrows, it is recommended to increase the space between the eyebrows in the nose bridge and make the eyebrows themselves thinner. In this case, it is important to ensure that in the area of the bridge of the nose there is a space not wider than two fingers of the hand (index and middle, connected together) free of hairs.
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As for the color, it should match the shade of the hair, and for blondes it should be 2-3 tones darker. Today stylists say that even brown-haired and black-haired girls are not recommended to choose black eyebrows. They look rude and even vulgar, add a few years to the face.
When correcting the shape of the eyebrows, it is important to remember their natural appearance. As a rule, professionals only slightly correct the natural shape, thanks to which the face retains its natural attractiveness.
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How to determine proportions?
To build the correct eyebrow, you need to choose a white cosmetic pencil (in principle, you can take a colored one, but dark lines can be distracting). First, you need to select 3 points - the beginning of the eyebrow, its highest point and the end.
The first can be found by placing the pencil from the wing of the nose to the eyebrow. This will be the beginning of the eyebrow. Further from the wing of the nose through the middle of the pupil, you need to draw an imaginary line to the eyebrow. This will prove to be the highest point. In this case, you need to look directly in front of you so that the location of the pupil does not shift. Finally, with the pencil against the wing of the nose, draw a line across the outer corner of the eye to the eyebrow. This will be the end point.
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Further, the outlined points should be connected with lines, drawing the required shape.
If you decide to radically change the shape of your eyebrows, then you can apply a tonal agent to their entire surface, and then make the necessary "markup". After that, you should draw a suitable shape and shade it with a brown pencil. This will give you a rough idea of how the new shape will look on your face.
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From the beginning to the middle of the eyebrows, a uniform thickness should be maintained, the tapering begins at the point of the break or slightly earlier. To achieve proportionality allows working with both eyebrows at once. It is wrong to first pluck one eyebrow and then the other.
The correct shape involves removing hair from the lower part of the eyebrow. Plucking hairs from above is fraught with the fact that the look will turn out to be heavy. In addition, with this method, it is not possible to significantly change the shape. Finally, the hairs above the eyebrow grow slowly, so if you pluck out the excess, you risk changing the shape for a long time.
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Design methods
Eyebrow shaping is usually done with tweezers or threads. The first method is considered more painful, however, it is available to almost everyone, while the thread removal technique requires possession of certain skills.
In addition, a mirror is required to work. Its dimensions should be such that the entire face is reflected in it. It is better when the mirror has a stand, so your hands will remain free. Specialists use a mirror with a magnifying glass, which allows even small hairs to be seen.
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In addition, you should prepare a disinfectant solution, which is used to treat work areas, hands, tools. If you have makeup on your face, you will also need a makeup remover.
In case of severe pain syndrome, anesthetic applicators and special creams can also be used. If they are not available, you can use a warm chamomile solution, as well as ice cubes.
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Correction in the salon
Correction in the salon can be analogous to home plucking. It is better to trust professionals if you are doing a correction for the first time, real professionals change the shape taking into account the individual characteristics of the face, select the appropriate shade. In the future, you will be able to maintain it yourself or undergo repeated professional corrections.
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Eyebrow shaping and architecture - this is the name of the service in most salons, it involves dyeing hairs, selecting and shaping them.
Most craftsmen work with tweezers, it is also possible to remove them using threads.
If there are too many hairs above the eyebrow, in fact, on the forehead, the artist may first use wax in order to achieve smooth skin. It should not be applied in the area close to the eyes, especially in the lower part of the eyebrow.
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If you want to achieve perfect shape for a long time, you can recommend tattooing. The master chooses a suitable shape, after which the pigment is injected under the skin to a depth of 0.5 mm. At first, these eyebrows look unnaturally bright, but after a week they look quite natural. The result is enough for several years.
Today there are the following tattoo techniques:
- Shooting. It involves drawing the eyebrow contour and filling the resulting shape with pigment. This method is inferior to other technologies, since the result is not the most natural.
- Hairy. Allows you to achieve attractiveness and naturalness due to the fact that individual hairs are drawn.
- Combined. It allows you to achieve the most attractive result, since it combines the advantages of shading and hair technology.
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If tattooing is carried out using a special device (working on the principle of a tool for applying tattoos), then the microblading technique that is popular today is carried out manually. First, the master draws the shape with a pencil, after which he manually draws individual hairs with a thin sharp needle with a coloring pigment.
The penetration depth of the pigment during microblading is slightly less than 0.5 mm, and its excess, which appears on the skin surface, is immediately removed. When contacting a professional in your field, you will get a better and more natural result compared to tattooing. However, such edges will hold on average for a year.
When using European microblading technology, it is possible to achieve the effect of thick wide eyebrows, since the master draws hairs of the same length and thickness. However, upon closer inspection, it is clear that they are not real.
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Eastern technology is carried out taking into account the characteristics of the growth and direction of the hair, therefore the eyebrows look more natural. However, it is impossible to significantly change their shape with this technique.
Finally, there is an eyebrow extension method that allows you to find thick and beautiful eyebrows in a couple of hours. Moreover, it is difficult to distinguish them from natural ones. The essence of the method is the same as for eyelash extension.
On one natural hair, from 1 to 3-4 artificial hairs are attached, which are as close as possible to yours in color and structure.
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How to draw yourself?
If you are doing the correction yourself, then you need to remove your makeup and cleanse your face.Prepare all the necessary tools at once and decide on the choice of form. Schemes and methods for determining suitable proportions and shapes have been given in the appropriate section of this article.
Eyebrow stencils are on sale today. It is enough to choose a suitable "contour" and circle it, and then remove all the hairs that go beyond the boundaries of the pencil lines. The advantage of this method is that it allows you to quickly get an almost perfect eyebrow shape. Why "almost"? Such stencils do not take into account the individual characteristics of the face.
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Before plucking, the hairs need to be combed up a little, using a special brush or an old and well-washed eyelash brush. If the procedure is too painful, you can precede the plucking by applying chamomile lotions.
To do this, pour a teaspoon of dry chamomile flowers with a glass of hot water and leave for 10-15 minutes. Warm so that the skin endures, soak a cotton swab with infusion, squeeze it and put it in the hair removal zone for 2-3 minutes.
Under the influence of heat, the pores will open and the hair will "slip" out of it faster and more painlessly. Also, chamomile infusion is characterized by analgesic, bactericidal and wound healing properties.
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If you use tweezers, you need to grab the hairs one at a time, gently pulling the skin in this area and pulling the hair in a sharp motion in the direction of its growth. If you do not take into account the direction of growth, the procedure will be more painful and threatens with ingrown hair.
For the same reason, you should grab the hair closer to the base, which will avoid breaking and further ingrowth. After the procedure, the skin is disinfected. For severe inflammation, a pain relieving or cooling gel can be used. The main thing is that it has a light water structure.
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Another option is trading, that is, deleting with threads. This method requires some dexterity and skill, but it has several advantages. In one capture with a thread, you can remove several hairs at once, and irritation after such a procedure goes away faster. An important advantage is that the hairs become softer and thinner over time.
You need to use a special thread called Arabic. It is quite dense, but glides well along the hairs, while not tearing or stretching.
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A "piece" half a meter long should be cut from this thread and its ends should be tied.
The resulting oval is twisted so that 2 loops are obtained, and the thread itself is pulled between the index fingers of the hands spread to the desired width.
It is necessary to shift the center of the twisted thread, bring the hairs closer to this point and move this center to the other side. The hairs will be trapped and removed.
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At home, you can also dye your eyebrows by choosing specialized dyes or henna for this. It should be stained before plucking or after a few days, when the inflammation subsides. If staining is performed immediately after correction, pigment particles will get into open pores and cause the development of an inflammatory process.
Styling allows you to maintain the beauty of the eyebrows and give them a well-groomed look both after salon and after home procedures. To do this, the hairs need to be combed and combed up a little, giving the desired shape. You can fix it with special gels. If these are not at hand, regular hairspray will do. It should be sprayed a little on an old (clean) mascara or teeth brush. Until the varnish has set, you need to brush it along the hairs, laying them in the right way.
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Eyebrow tinting helps to make them more expressive, emphasize a beautiful curve. It is better to use special shadows for this, applying them with a beveled brush. Stylists recommend choosing a lighter shade for the head than for the body and tip, carefully blending the boundaries between shades. This will make your eyes look open and your facial features more feminine.
You can also emphasize the bend by applying shimmery white eyeshadow, white pencil or highlighter to the area under the bend. The main thing is to thoroughly shade the cosmetic product.
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Care Tips
After the procedure, you can rub your face and treatment area with an ice cube. It will help tighten pores and reduce inflammation. You can increase the effectiveness of this method by preparing a cosmetic ice based on herbal infusions. You can brew chamomile or calendula, infuse the broth and, after filtering it, pour it into ice molds.
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After the procedure, do not use oily creams that clog pores. This can provoke inflammation. By the way, do not apply cream, wax or gel to hairs before removing them. The tweezers or thread will slip and it will be difficult to pull out the hair.
Periodic (once every 2-4 days) removal of small light hairs allows you to prolong the effect of a high-quality correction, as well as to always maintain the eyebrows in a well-groomed state. As a rule, most girls do this just before applying makeup.
The main thing is not to forget about the rules of disinfection.
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Oil masks allow to improve hair growth, as well as to give them smoothness and silkiness, shine. To do this, dip an eyebrow brush (it is convenient to use a washed mascara brush) in oil and run it over the eyebrows. Burdock, peach or castor oils are well suited for these purposes. It is recommended to warm them up a little before use.
It is better to do the procedure in the evening, and immediately before going to bed, remove excess oil with a dry napkin. If this is not done, there is a risk of staining the bed linen, as well as transferring the oil to the mucous eyes, which will cause them to be swollen and reddened in the morning.
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It is important that vitamins A, C, E, as well as omega-3 and other natural fats are present in your diet in sufficient quantities. You can drink a course of vitamins for hair and nails.
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See the next video for the seven secrets to perfect eyebrows.