Rules for washing clothes and other things by hand

Despite all the conveniences of the washing machine, some items require special care and monitoring during the wash, which can only be done by hand. Contrary to stereotype, it is not only baby clothes, silk and wool that deserve to be hand washed. Thanks to this care, clothes and underwear will serve you longer and delight you with their appearance.

All the things around us get dirty to varying degrees - sometimes even invisible to the human eye. This process is influenced by several factors:

1. Structure (porous things are more affected);
2. Surface (smooth fabrics in this regard are much more practical compared to uneven ones - knitted or printed);
3. The property of allowing dirt particles to pass through itself;
4. The ability to hold these particles in oneself;
5. Material finishing (that is, those processes that can change their characteristics);
6. Presence of electrostatic voltage (it literally attracts dust).
7. Absorption (the higher it is, the more substances are retained inside);
8. Composition (the addition of synthetics increases contamination). Natural fabrics, such as wool, are less likely to retain dirt on their surface. Although if it looks clean from the outside, then inside the threads everything can be the other way around.

All pollution is divided into:

• Local (local) - to clean them, it is not necessary to wash the entire product as a whole, if after that there are no stains left.
• General (affecting most of the surface).

Depending on the nature of the origin, they are divided into:

• organic;
• inorganic.

Simple mechanical couplings do not require complex actions, unlike when a chemical reaction occurs between substance and tissue. Moreover, the hit of some of them can lead to irreversible consequences in the form of a violation of integrity, the appearance of sprains, coarsening, etc.

All contaminants, depending on the method of removal, can be classified as:

• Water-soluble (dust, food and drink, various water-based products). Their removal can be permanent or with settling inside the tissue (such an example is soot).
• Removable with solvents (fats and other oil based products).
• Protein and the like, capable of oxidation and other reactions (blood, sweat, mold, rust).

Before proceeding with the removal process, you need to remember the following rules:

1. Any means, in order to avoid tissue destruction, must be tested on a small, less noticeable area. This is especially true for dyed products.
2. For some stains, the top layer must first be cleaned to prevent penetration into the fibers. If this happens, then all work is carried out from the seamy side, placing a clean white cloth under the thing.
3. For local cleaning, all solutions are applied with a swab, starting from the periphery to the center. Particular attention is paid to the edges so that no halo remains.
4. All movements should be soft, without pressure or stretching.
5. As the tampons are cleaned, they should be replaced with clean ones.
6. All success depends on how much time has passed since the moment the dirt got on the product. Some substances on the surface are oxidized, in which case it will not be easy to get rid of them.
7. If you are not sure about the nature of the stain, do not immediately use hot water and aggressive stain removers. Start by soaking or washing in cool soapy water. If that doesn't help, move on to more drastic solutions.

All detergents can be divided into three groups:

• for general pollution;
• with bleach;
• with additives (enzymes) as a stain remover.

According to the release form, they can be:

• in powder form;
• gelatinous;
• liquid.

All of these products can be universal or target specific materials (eg delicate materials). If it is not possible to purchase them, without wasting time you need to use the time-tested home methods. For example:

• The stains from tea, cocoa or chocolate are washed in cold water, after which they are treated with an aqueous solution of ammonia (tablespoon per liter) or oxalic acid (half a teaspoon per glass).
• Spilled wine is sprinkled with salt, shaken off and washed with ammonia or another type of alcohol.
• Traces of milk are impregnated with warm glycerin or brown (teaspoon per liter).
• Sprinkle the greasy spot with talc, chalk or salt and let it soak. The remaining trace is wiped off with dishwashing detergent.
• Starch is repeatedly rubbed into iodine until it disappears.
• The ink is removed with alcohol or vinegar.
• Traces of sweat and other waste products are washed in a strong saline solution, previously moistened with ammonia.
• Rust is removed with citric or acetic acid.
• Stains of plasticine, wax or cosmetics are wiped with oil and washed with soap.

Clothes are pre-sorted:

• By color - are divided into dark, light and colored. With colored and combined things, you need to be extremely careful. The first time they are washed in salted water. If the blouse does not shed, but the water is colored, then the excess dye has come out. In any case, these clothes should be washed separately.
• By composition. Usually, each product or package has a label indicating the composition and characteristics of the washing regime. If this is not the case, you can use the tables of tissue recognition by appearance and reaction to combustion. Fabrics can be clean (cotton, linen, woolen, silk) or mixed with viscose, lavsan, nylon and other artificial fibers. Each fabric needs its own care regimen:
  1. Cotton and linen can even withstand boiling, they can be bleached and different detergents can be used;
  2. Silk (including artificial) and synthetic fabrics require neutral detergents and a mode up to 45 degrees;
  3. Wool is washed exclusively with liquid detergents or specially designed for this and in water at a temperature of 30-35 degrees. In addition, delicate fabrics (sweater or nylon tights) should not be twisted, squeezed and rubbed. Brushes and other tools are only applicable to cotton fabrics.

• By sight - outerwear (jackets) and underwear (men's shirts, T-shirts, women's sweaters, underwear), even if they are the same in composition, should not be lumped together for hygienic reasons. For children's clothes, only hypoallergenic agents are used.
• By the degree of pollution. Sometimes a sweater, blouse, dress or trousers just need to be freshened up to put in the closet, without intensive procedures.

Any wash includes such basic steps as:

• soaking (if necessary);
• manipulation of hands for cleansing;
• rinse (until the powder is completely removed from the fabric).

Shoes can only be hand washed if they:

• made of textiles (sneakers, slippers, ballet flats, sneakers);
• with high-quality joints (it is preferable that all seams are stitched, since the adhesive can disperse).

This process includes the following steps:

1. Inspection. Any dirt and stains found must be cleaned and all gaps sewn up, especially on the lining.
2. Take out the laces and insoles (washed separately).
3. Dissolve the powder or gel in warm water, soak the shoes for no longer than 20-30 minutes.
4. Prepare a new solution and proceed to cleanse. To do this, you can use special narrow brushes (or a regular toothbrush), which will provide access to the far inner corners. Do not squeeze the product and bend the sole.
5. Rinse with clean water and drain.

Interior items get dirty no less than clothes, and are washed much less often, since this is fraught with certain difficulties. Firstly, not everything can be loaded into a typewriter. If the weight of the blanket exceeds the permissible value, it may break. Secondly, the filler of pillows and blankets can get lost at high speeds. To keep the pile of rugs or rugs fluffy, you need to handle it with care.

As a rule, there are difficulties with the fact that such things absorb a lot of water and become heavy. Therefore, you need to calculate your strength in advance in order to bring the matter to the end. Trampling with feet is an alternative way of washing bulky things for people who are not allowed to exercise.

Liquid products are preferable, they penetrate deeply better and are subsequently washed away. Correctly selected conditioners help to maintain softness and shape.

Baby soft toys are only washed liquid natural remediesso that the child does not have skin reactions.

A few tips and tricks for housewives to note:

• Before any wash, the product is shaken out, cleaned from dust with a brush, and stains removed. In addition, all damage (burn marks, holes, loose threads) must be repaired, as they may increase after washing. All decorative trim must be removed, buckles fastened and wrapped in cloth.
• Outdoor fresh air is ideal for drying all kinds of products. Of course, such conditions are not available to everyone, but ventilation in the room should be good - this way this stage will end faster, and bulky, dense things will not have an unpleasant odor. When using cabinets and other devices for drying, make sure that the temperature conditions are correct.
• Wool and other stretchable fabrics are dried horizontally. Shake products with a pile before drying and exclude clothespins that can leave dents.

• After washing, shoes are thoroughly wiped, stuffed with paper or rags, which are periodically changed until they are completely dry.
• Things do not need to be wrung out, they can be spread on a towel and rolled into a roller. This method is suitable for heavily wrinkled, naped and bulky fabrics.
• If a thing has sat down and stretched out, it can be reanimated. For shrinkage, wash in hotter water, use hydrogen peroxide or iron while wet with a hot iron. For stretching, you can soak it in salt water for several hours, and then apply physical influence - with the help of hands or other devices, give the thing the desired position and dry it.
• A thing that has lost its color can be revived by washing in a weak solution of vinegar.

For information on how to properly wash things by hand, see the next video.