Cutters for hardware manicure: varieties, purpose and tips for choosing

Hardware manicure is considered to be a fairly hygienic and simple procedure that allows you to make your nails beautiful without the help of cutting tools. If you learn how to use it, the device will become an irreplaceable thing. Nail masters from all over the world have already appreciated the beauty of working with a manicure machine.

When you go to a beauty salon or your master, you want to see only the best result. Undoubtedly, the industry has made a huge leap forward, so technology has even touched the field of manicure. There are two types of manicure: edging and hardware. Unlike edging, hardware manicure looks more neat, and the process of applying it does not cause pain.

If nail files, orange sticks, pushers, buffs, small nail scissors, nippers and many other tools are used in ordinary edged manicure, then in a manicure using a typewriter, you only need a special device - an apparatus that looks like a thick handle. Such a device is called a router or milling machine.

In order for the milling cutter to be able to perform actions different in purpose, it is necessary to use different types of attachments: cutters, drills, burs, polishers and others. Such devices are usually included in the kit, but advanced craftsmen buy them separately (depending on the tasks that need to be performed with the help of them).

Manicure and pedicure for their high-quality performance require nozzles of different shapes, different cutters. These tips can be made with different textures or made from different materials. Most often, each device is described in the form of instructions for use, so figuring out what's what will not be difficult.

The main advantages of hardware manicure are its painlessness and speed of execution. It cannot be assumed that this procedure has no drawbacks. Hardware manicure is just beginning to develop, so not all masters know how to work correctly with a router. In addition, it is necessary to choose the right attachments and sterilize them with high quality before each new use.

As we said, router bits are divided into several categories:

• blunt cutter;
• narrow-pointed (or fissure) cutter;
• spherical end mill;
• milling cutter with a corn-like end.

The cutters also differ in shape.

• Acicular - can be attributed to the fissure type. The name is given to them because of their igloo-like appearance. The needles are needed to work with rollers - the areas between the nail and the skin, as well as when removing the lower layer of the cuticle - pterygium. The diameter of the needle cutter does not exceed 2 mm. This is not the safest attachment, because the work with the cuticles and ptegria must be extremely careful so as not to hurt excess skin and cause bleeding.
• Reverse taper perfectly aligns the plate, but is still more often used in pedicure to remove small calluses.
• Ball or boron - this cutter up to 2 millimeters in diameter allows you to align the cuticle line, sand the cracks on the extended nail and process the space between the skin and the plate.
• Rounded cylinder comes in narrow and wide diameters. The narrow one allows you to treat the skin around the nail, the wide one - to remove the gel layer, adjust the plate or process the side ridges.

• Pointed cylinder (bullet or bullet) prepares the nail for future design.
• Flame Is the only universal cutter. Suitable for beginner craftsmen or home use.
• Cone allows you to make a mold for an unnatural nail.
• Frustum - an excellent solution for rough and rough skin, hard and extended nails. It can also be used for pedicure.

Each type of tip can be made from different materials, this also plays a big role in creating a new manicure.

So, corundum and diamond cutters made of ceramics or hard alloys are distinguished, there is a category of carbide nozzles, garnet or silicon carbide, silicone and even steel cutters are also on the market.

The category of metal cutters includes all hard alloys, as well as carbides, steel. Such attachments are mainly used for extended nails or hardened skin, as they can damage the natural nail due to their hardness. The difference between metal cutters and the rest is that they do not cut, but cut off the nail layer.

The hardness of the work is determined by the notches. They can be straight, oblique and cruciform. A cutter with straight cuts is considered the most rigid. The notches are applied to the cutter by punching or stamping, and then the element is treated with oxides (this is necessary in order to prevent subsequent rusting and deformation).

If metal cutters are an option for artificial plates and rough skin, then diamond cutters are designed for thin skin, cuticles and natural nails.

The abrasiveness of a diamond tip is determined by its color. A light cutter indicates the softness and safety of spraying, a dark gray one - about hardness and pronounced grains.

Usually they are immediately included in the kit with the milling machine, because they are suitable for both home and professional care. Ceramic elements are needed for the treatment of dry skin areas, calluses.

Abrasiveness is also determined by color: white, blue and black. Black is the hardest, its index is 400 microns (therefore it is often called "artificial pumice").

These silicon carbide cutters are the perfect start for newbies. It is believed that such caps are disposable, therefore they can withstand only 1 procedure.

The type of material and abrasiveness is the key to a successful manicure.

In order to choose a quality cutter, with the help of which it will turn out to make a beautiful and neat manicure, use some tips.

• Determine if you need a cutter for a manicure or pedicure. This largely determines which material to choose and with what characteristics.
• Determine for yourself what kind of use your device will assume: home or salon. So, for the salon you will need more cutters, they should be of better quality, because the device will be used often, and consumables are not cheap.
• Choose milling cutters for a specific machine. The fact is that the torque is different for everyone, the device itself can give revolutions of 1500 or more (the wear of the cutters depends on this). For home use, cutters can be used from a set and will not be replaced for many years.
• Choose machines in which overheating of the cutter is controlled.
• Always pay attention to the cutter diameter. Small cutters should run at high speeds and large cutters at low speeds.
• Some attachments have a "T" on them. This means that the element is coated with a cutting agent.

There is a separate attachment for each action with the nail, nail plate, cuticle and skin around the nail. If you use the attachment for other purposes, you can not only fail to achieve the desired result, but also severely damage the nail, both aesthetically and physically.

Below are the main actions of the cutter during the hardware manicure.

Cuticle removal involves the use of several types of cutters at once. The cylindrical cone allows not only to raise the cuticle, but also to remove the pterygium from under it. Blunt cutters are designed to lift the cuticle and clean the entire nail. Narrow-tip - designed exclusively for the removal of pterygium. Then a spherical cutter is used - it allows you to process the places of cracks or tears in the cuticle.

The corn tip easily handles extended nails, removing even the thickest coat. It is better to choose a carbide cutter - this will save time (and the purchase of new bits will be much less frequent).

The principle of operation of "corn" is to turn the gel polish into shavings - the notches on the cutter, rotating, cut off part of the varnish. Choose elements with deep notches - this will preserve the quality of the cutter for a long time.The volumetric grooves do not clog as often, making the instrument easy to clean.

To shape the artificial nail, everyone also uses "corn", you can also use a truncated cone. For a natural nail, use a reverse taper or cylinder. This is the simplest kit that should be available even for home use.

The spherical end polishes the nail, polishes it, and also protects the cuticle raised with a blunt cutter. It is important to know that rubber or silicone cutters are most often used for polishing - it is important not to damage the nail, not to remove the stratum corneum or cut off the cuticle, but to grind the nail to smoothness, prepare for further coating.

An important criterion in the selection of cutters for hardware manicure is your qualifications and work experience. Experienced craftsmen can experiment with nozzles, their shapes, rigidity, notches. For a beginner or for home use, the standard cutters included in the set are sufficient.

Pay attention to the material too - as mentioned above, the new generation of ceramic tips lasts longer. Those who are just getting started can choose the classic samples of materials that you do not mind throwing away after a quick erase or if they did not suit you in use.

Start with less harsh abrasives. The harder the nozzle, the faster the manicure procedure goes, the faster you can achieve the desired effect or ruin the nail. First, use the lowest hardness, and only then select the abrasiveness that is comfortable for you. Remember to identify it by the color on the cutter handle.

For initial use and mastering of hardware manicure, you can refer to the following attachments:

• silicone nozzle for sanding white;
• to work with pterygium, choose a red nozzle;
• for the treatment of cuticles and skin, give preference to green;
• for artificial coatings and removing gel polish, blue is suitable.

To use the device correctly, follow the simple instructions.

• Take the manicure machine out of the box.
• The attachment you need must be inserted into the machine as far as it will go, it must be firmly fixed with a clamp inside the handle slot.
• There are three types of cutter clamping in the socket: automatic, rotary, screw. With automatic clamping, you just need to insert the attachment into the slot of the handle. With a swivel clamp, after inserting the cutter into the socket, the ring must be rotated at the base of the socket. The screw clamp machine is the easiest to operate and therefore suitable for home use. In order to fix the cutter in the socket, you need to turn the socket base until it stops, as if screwing the element into the handle.
• On a professional milling machine there is a function for selecting the revolutions, if you are just starting your journey - do not set the speed higher than 6-10 thousand revolutions, because due to lack of experience, you can damage the plate and skin at such a speed.
• Keep the cutters in one place, preferably in a box with graduations adapted for this. This way you will never lose them and you will always know where this or that attachment is.
• Do not press the cutter against the nail - it is intended only for cutting off keratinized layers or outdated gel polish.

Disinfection of device elements and sterilization are important steps at the end of a manicure. Usually, cleaning is carried out in several stages: disinfection, cleaning from dirt, boiling or re-disinfection. Each of the stages must be carried out carefully, observing all norms so that all bacteria are destroyed, and nothing bodes well for the infection of the next client.

Each type of cutter for the material must be disinfected in its own way.

• Metallic elements are immersed in the solution at the required temperatures. Remember that too high temperatures or high concentrations of chemicals can deform metal parts, resulting in disposal of the cutter. Then you need to thoroughly rinse the elements to wash off the concentrate. You can also use an oven. For the concentrate, 30 grams of potassium permanganate, 100 milliliters of 70% medical alcohol and 10 grams of boric acid salt are used, and after mixing, potassium permanganate is added. You can also use ready-made preparations: Cutasept F, Octenisect, Sterillium.

• Ceramics and diamond dusting can be easily disinfected in special ovens or autoclaves.

The replacement of cutters occurs according to the degree of grinding of the abrasive. According to the reviews of professionals and amateurs, the metal elements of the cutter are grinded in 3-5 years (depending on the frequency of use and the number of revolutions at which the machine works). High-quality diamond dusting with timely and correct cleaning and processing will last up to 3 years. Ceramic tips are short-lived (only two months of regular use), but silicone or rubber tips are replaced as they are completely erased.

Also, the operating time depends on the correct change of nozzles. If you have a professional device, then you just need to turn the element in the cutter socket. If the device is home, then you will need a special key, which often comes with the machine. Be careful here, it is possible that you twist the clamps - then the socket may crack. In this case, you will have to completely change the entire handle or even the entire apparatus.

Thus, you got acquainted with what types of cutters for hardware manicure are present on the modern market, and also studied their features and characteristics. You also learned about the rules for their selection and operation. Do not neglect this knowledge and pay attention even to those details that at first glance seemed insignificant to you. Be careful, because the wrong choice of cutter can lead to delamination of the nail and deformation of the nail plate, which in no case should be allowed.

For an overview of cutters for hardware manicure, see the next video.