Italian hair extension: features and types of technique
Italian technology has long been one of the most popular hair extension procedures. The demand for the technique is associated with the effect created - hair extensions practically do not differ from their relatives, and the technique itself is considered the most gentle for curls.
The essence of the technique
Italian hair extensions were invented back in 1991 by renowned stylist David Gold. His clients often complained that, shortly after the English method (using resinous capsules), the artificial curls were very poorly adhered to their own hair. At that moment, the hairdresser came up with the idea to come up with a special adhesive composition that would allow women to forget about problems. Empirically, Gold developed a special composition based on a frozen protein-keratin, he very firmly fixed all donor strands and reduced their loss to almost zero when combing.
Extension according to the Italian technique refers to the hot methods, since during the work they use special tongs to heat the capsules with keratin, however, women can be completely calm - despite the effect of high temperatures, the hair remains healthy and intact.
Keratin is similar in structure to natural protein and does not harm the curls, and the capsules are very strong and comfortable to wear. Modern technologies make it possible to paint them in a wide variety of colors, so the place of transition from natural strands to extended ones remains invisible to prying eyes.
Advantages and disadvantages
Italian extension has quite significant advantages:
- effective increase in the size of the strand and the degree of their density;
- complete safety of the entire procedure and a feeling of comfort during manipulations;
- depending on the structure of the native hair, you can pick up capsules of different colors, as well as volume and shape;
- hair fixation points are absolutely invisible;
- Keratin capsules are flexible yet durable;
- the composition is hypoallergenic;
- extended strands are easy to remove;
- when carrying out the correction, the same materials are used;
- you can unlimitedly visit the pool, bathhouse, beach;
- when attaching multi-colored strands, you can achieve a fashionable highlighting effect without the need to dye the strands, in addition, the technique allows you to carry out all styling options.
However, it was not without its drawbacks:
- the extension procedure is very laborious and time-consuming;
- Italian extension requires a highly qualified master; any inexperienced hairdresser cannot cope with all the intricacies of this work;
- in the first days after building up, women may feel some discomfort;
- It is impossible to comb the hair out of the capsules, so it will fall out over time.
In general, all the disadvantages are completely outweighed by the advantages of the technique. Subject to all the rules of work, donor curls do not cause any discomfort to their owners, and relatives remain healthy and strong for a long time.
It should be borne in mind that the technique is not suitable for everyone. So, building is not recommended in the presence of one of the following diseases:
- atopic dermatitis;
- seborrhea;
- ringworm;
- vegetative dystonia.
You cannot extend your hair during a course of radiation and chemotherapy, as well as while taking antibiotics, in addition, you should not resort to the procedure if your own hair is too damaged or falls out profusely.
Girls under 15 years old do not do keratin extensions, since the hair at this age is still rather weak and the procedure can severely damage them. Only the cold technique is allowed here.
Preparation
If you are determined to increase the length of your hair, do not rush to the hairdressing salon right there. Experts recommend first treating your own curls, especially if their condition leaves much to be desired. The master should be selected qualified, best of all, according to the reviews of friends. Be sure to consult him on all the intricacies of the procedure, since each hairdresser makes recommendations based on personal experience and skill level.
Before starting the procedure, you should definitely rinse your head, since the capsule is glued only to cleaned hair.
Special attention should be paid to the selection of strands. The Italian technique implies certain restrictions on the length of the curls: the smallest size of donor strands is 6 cm, and the maximum can be increased to 70 cm.In order for the hairstyle to become more voluminous, on average, about 50-60 strands are spent, and if you intend to achieve a significant increase in density , then up to 150-200 strands may be required - all these details should be discussed with the master in advance, since they significantly affect the final cost of the work.
Varieties of curls
The quality of the donor strands themselves deserves special attention, usually use Asian, Slavic, as well as South Russian and European.
- Asian hair are considered the most dense and straightforward, while their cost is minimal. At first, the hair looks smooth and luxurious, however, this effect is achieved with the help of a special wax, which, as it is washed off, loses its glossy effect and the hair quickly becomes unkempt and faded.
- European hair characterized by a characteristic natural shine, softness and exceptional flexibility in styling. The cut, as a rule, is even, so the hair can tolerate up to 3-4 corrections without prejudice to its appearance and structure.
- South Russian strands much more expensive than European and Asian ones, so they can be found infrequently on the market. Their advantage lies in a wide color palette, which includes an abundance of shades from light to dark blond. With proper care, they can withstand up to 3 adjustments.
- Slavic hair - these are strands of the highest quality, respectively, and the price tag for them is high. Such curls undergo a fairly strict selection before getting to a beauty salon. The strands are characterized by a perfectly even cut, all hair shafts are smooth, and the curls themselves are obedient and very delicate. These strands can withstand more than 4 adjustments.
Technology
The Italian building procedure is carried out in several stages, we will give a description of them.
- To begin with, the entire shock should be lifted and fixed with a hair clip, while part of the hair should be left intact.
- Then the master takes the strands one by one. Traditionally, the thickness of the bundle is 2-2.5 times thinner than the volume of donor hair. A protector is put on the lock, it is designed to protect the skin from hot forceps and the ingress of an active substance on the skin.
- Donor hair is added to the natural strands, for this, heated tongs are brought to the capsule for just a couple of seconds, this time is quite enough for the keratin to start melting.
- Immediately after that, the donor curl is fastened to the natural one at a distance of several centimeters from the roots, and keratin begins to envelop both bundles and firmly fix them in the form of a capsule. The final connection is made either with forceps or fingers - they are pressed against the capsule. If it turns out to be not strong enough, then it is warmed up again and re-fixed with forceps.
Extension according to the Italian technique can vary depending on the size of the capsules themselves - if they are too thin, then this technique is called "microcapsule extension". This option is optimal for hair extensions in the parting area, for short hair, on the temples and bangs.
Care
If the procedure for the capsule extension was carried out correctly, then after 2-3 months you will need a correction, sometimes the need for it arises later - it depends on the growth rate of the native curls and their structure.
If you do not carry out timely correction, then hair fragility will appear.
Correction of Italian extensions is absolutely harmless to native hair and does not destroy their structure, which is why re-fixation can be carried out immediately after removing the capsules. In order to remove keratin crystals, the master first applies a special solvent to them, which softens the capsules and makes them pliable. After that, they are broken with forceps, which visually resemble pliers, and the extended strands are neatly pulled down, holding the relatives at the roots with their hands.
Then the hair is thoroughly combed, washed with shampoos, treated with care products, after which it regains its aesthetic appearance and can be reused. The result is significant savings that always make women happy.
Caring for hair extensions has a few more subtleties.
- Immediately after the procedure, the curls should not be rubbed and fiddled with hands - the capsules need time to harden, otherwise they will simply disappear.
- Hair should be washed with water no more than twice a week, always using gentle shampoos without silicones and sulfates, otherwise the curls will look heavy and unnatural. If you intend to use masks and conditioners, then they should not get on the roots, near which the capsules are located.
- Italian build-up will withstand staining, but it will still be better if you dye your curls before the procedure, as hydroperite can compromise the integrity of the capsule. If you have a need to dye your hair after extension, make sure that the dye composition contains no more than 6% ammonia.
- You need to comb your hair with special brushes, which are sold only in specialized stores, as a rule, they have two-stage teeth (silicone and soft natural).
If you neglect these recommendations, the appearance of hair extensions will deteriorate rather quickly, the adhesion will weaken, as a result, you will not be able to achieve the ideal effect that you expected.
For information on how to make hair extensions, see the next video.