How to choose the right hair color?

The fashion for natural hair color did not start yesterday - for more than 5 years, women of different ages have come to a colorist with one request: I want to return my color. At the same time, only a few choose a short haircut and growing, most of the clients of beauty salons want everything at once, to keep the length and return their color.

At the same time, another part of the clients of colorists are looking for the shade that will be ideal for them. They try not to miscalculate with the color and find, the end, the tone of paint that will make them, if not beauties, then well-groomed ladies. The most common mistake when dyeing your hair is following your desires without taking into account the possibilities. Simply put, not all women seriously think about how to choose the right hair color. And there are indeed a lot of rules in this matter.

The beauty industry workers have an axiom: every woman should know her color type. The statement is categorical, but not devoid of reasonable thought. The color type is the starting point in solving problems of appearance. It presents a combination of natural curl shade, iris color and skin tone. You can determine your own color type by listing the signs of each of the 4 options.

The main association is light shades. The color type assumes a narrower division. For example, a bright spring can be recognized by the iris of turquoise, green, or tea colors. They have light brown curls with a golden tint, or dark, almost black, but with a chestnut or even reddish undertone. The skin is light, ivory or porcelain, with warm undertones.

Ladies of the spring color type should take a closer look at warm or golden hair colors. If we assume a reddish undertones, then the lightest. Sandy and pale blond curls also appeal to the spring color type. The ideal options for him are copper blond, as well as golden blond, light brown with a redhead, sunny amber. If your option is a bright spring, then your choice is: hazelnut, cognac, golden chestnut, light brown.

Despite the name, summer is primarily about cooling shades. The color type assumes a white with blue skin color, dull light brown hair shades and a frosty undertones of the eyes.

Variations of the color type may be different.

• Bright summer. Eyes - green or light blue, curls - light brown or light with an ash tint, skin tone - transparent pale pink or light beige.
• Cold summer. This type is easily recognizable by blue or gray eyes, cool blonde or dark brown curls. Light skin with icy beige undertones.
• Mild summer. Strands - blond with gold, light brown with gold. The iris is green, blue or tea-colored. The skin is pale, with a yellowish or pale peach undertone.

This color type is matched by the warm palette of the look with red and gold accents. Ladies of this color type often have freckles on their faces.

Consider the fall variations.

• Dark autumn. It implies deep shades. Eyes - dark emerald or the color of fresh tea leaves, curls - thick brown or dark brown, skin - with a golden undertone.
• Warm autumn. An iris with a predominance of green and brown shades, light strands in the tonality of honey caramel or dark blond with gold. Leather - warm gold, beige or bronze.
• Mild autumn. You can understand it by the presence of blue, gray-green, as well as a light brown eye color or a light nut iris. Hair of this subtype is light brown with a redhead, wheat blond. The skin is very light.

This is the coldest color type. And it is the most difficult one regarding the selection of paint. It is difficult for such women to get away from their external nuances, because their main difference is the play of contrasts.

There are several winter variations.

• Bright winter. These are blue-eyed ladies with emerald green irises. Their hair is brown or black, their skin is pale, even white.
• Cold winter. The eyes of the representatives of this group are blue or rich gray, the hair is brown or graphite, the skin is pale.
• Dark winter. Black or bright brown eyes, deep hair color (black diamond or dark chestnut), pale skin with an olive tone.

A significant and often decisive step is to accurately determine the original base of the natural color. It is necessary to take into account gray hair, it will affect the choice of color and color fastness. Girls with natural light brown are often repainted in black, as their native color seems to them "mouse", dull. And for rare fair-haired ladies, burning black really suits. There is an imbalance in appearance. In order for the dark shades to be akin in appearance, you need to change the color of the eyebrows, make-up and even the wardrobe.

Becoming a blonde is not a quick business. One session can be enough, but for how many hours it will stretch ... And even if a girl with dark hair decided to switch to light shades of blond, she will have to adapt her entire image to new curls. You may have to lighten your eyebrows, change your usual makeup, and give up some things in your wardrobe. Any color transition presupposes both subsequent maintenance of paint and timely color correction. The transition to a color that differs by a couple of tones from the original is considered less painful in this regard.

The shape of the face is another given that also correlates with the choice of the color of the curls. Try to measure the distance from the bottom of the chin to the beginning of hair growth at the forehead with a measuring tape, and divide this value by 3. Next, measure the distance from the bottom of the chin to the tip of the nose.

Compare the results:

• if the numbers are equal, and your chin can be called round, therefore, the face is rectangular or oval;
• if the first number exceeds the second, then the face is considered elongated;
• if the second number exceeds the first, the face is square or round;
• if the second number is higher, while your chin is pointed, then your face is heart-shaped, and if your chin is wide, it is pear-shaped.

For an elongated oval face, colors with tints are suitable: for example, golden brown and honey blond. Chubby girls are more likely to choose a dark color. But still, it is wrong to judge only by the shape of the face. Color type, preferred make-up - this is the main thing in choosing a shade. And the shape of the face rather affects the choice of a suitable haircut. Sometimes any color suits, but the correct haircut makes a round face cute, and an unsuccessful one visually enlarges it. If you go to a professional, he will sort through everything that is harmonious with your type of appearance, and narrow down the choice of colors to really suitable options.

This question has no strict rules. Let's look at examples: beautiful Charlize Theron and no less spectacular Halle Berry for a long time, short hair was preferred to all other hairstyles. They knew that it suits them, even though this type of haircut is always a daring change of image. But it cannot be said that the blond walked Charlize more than the dark chocolate - Halle. Women belong to different visual types, so it's not about the haircut, but about the totality of external data.

We can only conditionally, with a slight stretch, assert that:

• red shades are revealed as much as possible on long straight hair;
• the square may require both a radical color (pure blond or pure blueberry), and shade transitions with an imitation of a natural tone;
• pixie used to require a specific bright color, now more and more women with this haircut are returning to natural hair colors (light brown, chestnut);
• the cascade looks better on blondes and redheads;
• bob is laconic and effective on caramel chocolate, soft graphite and dark blond.

A woman over 40 should turn her gaze towards restrained shades. Bright, burning, fiery colors will only emphasize her age. As a rule, ladies are determined with the color by 35. At this age, they already understand what suits them, and from which experiments they need to stay away. They choose shades of colors that are adjacent, close in tonality: few decide to radically change their hair color, but you can always play with shades - and rightly so.

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There are few universal advice, because to say that dark is aging is too general a statement. If Monica Bellucci and Demi Moore dyed blond, the age would visually increase, not decrease. But these recognized beauties know that light shades will suit them only within the framework of advertising with good filters and photo editing. Therefore, they do not try to dye their hair blonde for a long time.

What women should not do after 40-45 years:

• adhere to the numbers of paints that went to them in their youth (then they had their own ideals, and burgundy and mahogany were considered a luxury);
• maintain a "cheap" hair color - nothing makes a woman so young as beautiful, well-groomed curls of deep, rich color;
• do the usual highlighting for many years without resorting to current technologies;
• paint over gray hair with henna and basma;
• Do not trust professionals - one trip to a colorist can change your appearance in a way that never happened before.

With age, people become conservative, afraid of change, believing that they will look ridiculous with youth haircuts. But "youth haircut" is a conditional concept. You can turn an ordinary short haircut into a pixie, grow it into a bob, and that will already be a change.

Time sweeps away the classic standards and combinations: Chinese women and Kazakh women, Asians and Oriental girls abandon natural dark tones and become platinum blondes, paint curls in ash-blond, creamy pink, copper ... It cannot be said that this makes the appearance less bright. Rather, it would be correct to note that such changes do not last long - over the years, women try to return to the options for the original hair color... But if we are talking about the Asian type of appearance, luxurious natural brunettes can take advantage of the achievements of color and give their hair a pleasant, subtle shade (mocha, diamond blue, black coffee, spicy cherries, and others).

The combination of the type of appearance and the color of the curls has its own laws.

• Fat girls often hear that light colors will not suit them. Dark, indeed, visually slim, but if the hair is of sufficient length, and the face maintains a pleasant oval, you can remain in blonde.
• Many women with freckles try to escape pigmentation by changing the golden natural shades of hair to chestnut or black. And as a rule, such a substitution looks completely unconvincing. Sometimes you need to strengthen and ennoble what you are ashamed of. If the strands are reddish, you can dye them in a gentle, even copper golden tone. In combination with the correct make-up and well-chosen clothes, you can get an appearance comparable in brightness to Cynthia Dicker.
• Thin, petite girls are more likely to decide on short haircuts a la garcon.So that the hair color is not alien against the background of such an appearance, do not go beyond the natural shades. For coloring, choose colors that are close to natural, but with a tendency to intensify.
• With age, many women cut the length, try options for short haircuts. But the same hairstyle can look different if you find the perfect styling option and a good color. For example, a pixie with chocolate mocha will look beautiful on a 35-40 year old woman with a taut face shape and an attractive smile. Curls, albeit short, due to the color will impress with volume.

Make-up plays a key role. Any color, even initially suitable for a woman, can fade and seem alien if the makeup does not match with it at all. If, for example, you made a short haircut and dyed your hair light blond, you will have to refuse from thick black eyebrows. Let's leave the bright eye makeup for the evening look. During the day, such girls should watch out for an even skin tone, a slight blush that does not go beyond the brink of naturalness, and beautifully designed eyebrows to match the hair. Having picked up such a base, you can do without total makeup with eyeliner, mascara, lipstick.

Hair color correction when dyeing the master is performed using a spectral circle (or Oswald's circle). This circle makes it easier for specialists to calculate when mixing paint shades. The circle contains colors that form other tones when mixed - these are primary shades, they correct unwanted shades when they are added to the composition.

The mixing rules are:

• you can mix only pigments that are close in shades;
• it is impossible to combine paints from different manufacturers in the same composition, since the developers have different palettes;
• the degree of exposure of the dye composition for different types of hair should also be taken into account;
• the amount of the coloring composition for the length of the hair to the shoulders - 1 tube;
• combine more than 3 paints of the same palette, a case for super-professionals;
• red and green, purple and yellow, orange and blue undertones do not mix with each other.

Hair color depends on the proportions of blue, yellow and red shades. When the natural pigment is removed from the hair with hydrogen peroxide, a lightening base appears. If you, for example, want to go from blue-black to brown-haired, red pigment will appear, it is masked by color correction.

Colorists have information on the ratio of the type of coloring and the proportions of coloring agents. For example, to remove gray hair, take 60 ml of paint and 60 ml of an oxidizing agent.

The same Oswald circle is divided into 3 basic colors, and 3 secondary ones, it is used to enhance and neutralize the hue. To enhance the color on the wheel, you need to take shades from the segment where it is located. To neutralize the tone, you need to draw a diagonal to the side to the opposite segment, and to change the shade, combine the colors from the adjacent segments.

Coloring rules are information that masters are well aware of, and with which clients are relatively familiar. But this does not prevent many women from conducting home experiments, trying to refute the axiom that paint does not cover paint over paint. Hence, dirty colors, spots and streaks on the hair, roots that differ from the bulk of the hair and other negative results of home dyeing.

Technologists offer more and more perfect formulations, unique cream paints that can be used to make good coloring even at home. But still, it makes sense to entrust the basic, first color change (if you decide to repaint) to a professional. He can give advice on how to maintain the color in the future, how to paint over the roots at home or saturate the color.

A new hair color, indeed, can change life, but only if it is chosen correctly, and if you are ready to slightly change the usual make-up and wardrobe for the sake of updated curls.

How to choose the right hair color, see the video below.