How to choose an overlock?

The creation of beautiful and strong overlock seams is impossible without overlock - a special technique capable of processing all types of fabric cuts. It is this device that allows you to connect parts of knitwear and achieve the aesthetics of the seamy side of things in which no lining is provided.

If you plan to sew from time to time, overlock is chosen for all types of fabrics, that is, the most versatile. Semi-professional models capable of developing a higher speed of needle movement are suitable for enthusiastic needlewomen. However, these criteria are far from the most important. Sometimes everything is decided by the reduced cost or good equipment. How to choose the right overlock? Let's try to figure it out.

An overlock is a type of device able to provide a neat overcast of the edges of the material... Unlike machine sewing, this finish does not crumble over time, retains its functionality and protects the fabric from damage during washing. Certain models are also capable of stitching fabrics with increased stretchability: elastic fabrics, knitwear.

Household overlocks support 2, 4 or 5 threads. Industrial overlocks use 6 to 8. In addition, 5-thread overlocks often support the creation of cover stitches or flat seams. These overcast machines are called overcasting machines and are used to sew knitted T-shirts and other stretch fabrics.

Household overlocks are represented by the following types.

• 2-thread. They are focused on processing the most delicate and delicate fabrics like chiffon and silk.On other fabrics, 2-thread overlocks are not used because they do not create a tight stitch.
• 3-thread. These models have standard overcasting and are suitable for all types of fabrics. A versatile option for creating regular stretch jersey stitches, roller stitches.
• 4-thread. In this case, the overlock, in addition to overcasting, also performs a securing stitch, suitable for joining parts when basting. The reinforced version of the 3-strand model allows for the addition of double face seams. The best option if you need to sew overalls or bags, create a bathing suit, elastic sportswear.
• 5-thread... These overlocks create a straight seam stitch and 3-thread overcast. These models are the most versatile, they are capable of embroidery on fabrics of different weights, as well as other types of work.

Among the most popular firms are affordable and fairly popular brands from Asian countries. Trademarks of the following manufacturers are traditionally among the recognized authorities here.

One of the most famous brands. The lineup includes several dozen pieces of equipment. This is a good brand for aspiring seamstresses. Entry-level overlocks have a good range of features available, are easy to set up, and not too difficult to maintain.

One of the best overlock brands in the world. The company creates multifunctional models aimed at seamstresses with different backgrounds. Overlocks are distinguished by a wide range of functions, a choice of available stitches. At the same time, the price remains very affordable.

A Japanese company recognized as one of the world's best overlockers. Models under this brand range from professional to amateur. Their adaptability to a high level of loads and long-term work is noted.

Brother is not the most stable brand in terms of product quality. There are models that do not cause any complaints, but there are many overlocks from this company on the market that raise big questions about their quality.

Quite a well-known brand that produces entry-level overlocks with a minimum set of necessary functions. This is a good and inexpensive option, but the models vibrate significantly during operation. You can eliminate this defect with the help of special rugs.

The company produces almost silent overlocks with very smooth running. A good solution for sewing mothers with children who are trying to find a minute for needlework while the baby is sleeping.

Among the useful components or accessories for the overlock are the following.

1. Sleeve platform. Just like a sewing machine, it provides ease of handling small and complex parts. It is she who is needed when processing cuffs, hem of trousers, sleeves.
2. A device for creating a rolled seam. This tool helps to create a finely curled edge on the thinnest materials such as chiffon, tulle and overcast it.
3. Differential conveyor. It can be used to combine overcasting to create a frill around the edge of the work piece.
4. Backlight. It can be a classic incandescent lamp or an economical LED. Modern illumination does not negatively affect the retina of the eyes, it makes sewing more comfortable.
5. Spare legs. They are needed so that during work it is possible to adapt the clamp to a certain type of fabric without jamming it. In addition, special feet are used to decorate the material with beads, fasten the braid over the fabric and on the edge, and sew in piping.
6. Needles. The same elements are used here as in a conventional sewing machine. It is important not to forget to change their thickness in accordance with the type of material.
7. Garbage collection compartment. It is not too large, but it is very important if you do not want to be distracted by cleaning during work.
8. Case. It protects the mechanism from dust and dirt, helps to avoid clogging and damage to equipment during storage. Some of the covers are used as a protective case during shipping.

Before choosing a suitable overlock for home use, it is worth deciding on the most important parameters.

The purchase of an overlock is advisable in cases where the seamstress is concerned about the quality of the line. The seams processed with zigzag look quite artisanal and betray the origin of the thing. When it comes to tailoring or selling products, the use of an overlock is also a must. In addition, you cannot do without such a special machine when you have to work with stretchy fabrics - stretch and knitted fabrics.

A home overlock should be as comfortable to use as possible. Bulky industrial machines are not mobile and need a special plinth to support their weight. In addition, models with a metal case generate quite significant vibration. A home overlocker should be lightweight, compact, and have sufficient functionality.

For the home, you should not choose industrial machines, because too powerful equipment will simply be idle. The household model will last for 2-3 hours of continuous operation, then it can be given a rest. Sewing speed is also not very important when it comes to the creation of piece clothing or decor items.

Convenience is influenced by the number of loopers, as well as the ease of threading them. It is optimal if the model uses a pneumatic system that significantly speeds up this process. Adjustment of the presser foot should be smooth, tension control is most convenient computer - it is more accurate.

Experienced seamstresses and manufacturers of such equipment name the following among the most important operations for an overlocker.

1. Adjusting the presser foot. It allows you to work with different types of fabrics and materials. Without this option, it will be impossible to process the edges of thick, heavy fabrics. If you want to create sweatshirts, sweatshirts, sweatpants, this option should not be neglected.
2. Disabling the movement of the cutting knife. This function is useful in most cases and is necessary to eliminate the double-sided edges of the product. That's just when sewing cuffs and performing some other operations, it will be a hindrance. It is important that the knife can be insulated.
3. Adjusting the stitch width. In overlocks, it determines how tight the seam will be. The pitch controller helps you to control the stitching and its parameters.
4. Adjusting the thread tension. It can be automatic or manual. If the same operations are constantly performed, you can get by with simple, non-computerized options for technology. It is better to choose an overlock with computerized thread tension in automatic mode, with adjustment to the type of fabric.

There are 5 basic types of stitches that must be used in an overlock. Additionally, there may be other types of created stitches.But when sewing clothes, a rather limited number of operations are used, and most of the additional functions will never be needed by the owner of the equipment.

The following types of stitches are required.

1. Chain two-strand. The line is sewn with 1 needle and 2 threads and can be used as a decorative element. Suitable for seaming off knit or stretch garments.
2. Overlock three-thread. Classic overlock stitch required for edging open cuts. It is he who is needed most often when processing elastic fabrics of small thickness.
3. Flatlock. A kind of flat seam, it can be wide or narrow. An overlocker with this function can be used for sewing knitted T-shirts, sweatshirts, and other products. The stitch pattern may differ depending on the model and brand.
4. 4-thread reinforcement. Combines the advantages of overlock and chainstitching.
5. Rolled hemming 3-thread. Rolled seam required for processing the edges of skirts, shawls, blouses made of lightweight fabrics. Tuck the edge of matter in a special way.

You need to understand that all overlock models have different technical equipment. If you need the most versatile model, you should pay attention to the type of looper installed. The premium models have top thread guides for creating decorative stitches with overlapping threads. They also have the function of a chainstitch looper, which allows you to make flat seams, similar to those used in sewing jeans belts, and replace cover sewing machines.

The main stitches are created using the lower and upper loopers, it is with their help that all three-thread seams are formed. By adjusting the thread tension, you can get a Flatlock or rolled stitch. By adding 2 needles, the stitch patterns can be greatly varied. In addition, 1 needle can be shifted to the left or right. Even more possibilities are provided by using the converter, which allows you to create seams with a 2-thread weave.

Beginner seamstresses are advised not to immediately choose models with manual threading in the loopers. But this function works automatically only in medium and premium overlocks. You can save money by choosing a model with only a lower looper threader. It is available in some budget Brother models.

The type of thread tensioner adjustment is also important. It can be front (with rotary knobs on the front panel) or axial. In the second case, the thread tension is more uniform, which is very important when increasing the sewing speed.

Overlock power matters. It is influenced by the functionality of the model - the more options are supported, the higher the power consumption. The most powerful options are up to 250 watts. Overlocks equipped with 4-5 coils consume less power, from 100 watts. The smallest models for overcasting fine fabrics are equipped with 2-3 spools and have a power of about 75 watts.

When determining the price category of an overlock, it is not worth saving. Models cheaper than 6,000 rubles have insufficiently high technical equipment and, in general, are only capable of performing the simplest operations, creating 2-thread seams. A basic 3-thread overlock for beginners costs about 5,000-10,000 rubles, semi-professional versions of equipment will cost twice as much. A coverlock with a full set of options and a 5-thread type of construction will require costs from 21 to 39,000 rubles and more.

How to choose an overlock, see below.