Overlock stitching: what is it and how to do it?

We all thought more than once about how clothes are sewn. How does this or that part not diverge and crumble from constant wear or washing? And those who at least once sewed clothes or "repaired" it, more than once noticed a neat seam along the edge of the clothes. It is called an overlock stitch and is used to secure cut fabrics. This is necessary so that the fabric does not crumble later. How can you make such a line yourself?

There are 2 types of seams that resemble a zigzag line. it overlock seam and overlock (also known as overlock) stitching.

The main distinguishing feature of these two lines is their formation. The overlock seam is made on a special overlock or coverlock machine. And the overlock stitch can be performed on a simple sewing machine. Only in this case it will not be considered an overcast.

If you use a sewing machine, then knowing its mechanism, you can understand the principle of operation of the machine itself. We have a shuttle and one needle that zigzags the fabric and pulls the thread through it. The size and frequency of the zigzag are adjustable, and the edge is overcast without crumbling. The zigzag stitch can be done in the following combinations:

• regular zigzag stitch;
• zigzag stitch with an extra straight stitch on one side;
• zigzag stitch with two parallel straight ties;
• crossed ties with straight stitching (bottom or top);
• oblique ties that mimic hand overcasting.

In the case of an overlock, things are different.Instead of a bobbin, there is a looper, into which the thread and several needles are immediately threaded. The needles don't just pull the thread through the hole to create a zigzag, they also form loops around the edge. But how does this happen? The bobbin thread, which is in the overlock rod, secures not only the edge itself, but also the upper thread, creating a loop. At the same time, it does not release the upper thread and fixes it in the product. In this case the thread simply cannot accidentally "jump out" of the fabric without outside interference. This is the big difference between overlock and overlock stitching.

If you choose an overlock machine in addition to the main sewing machine, then you will not have any special problems with the seam, the overlock or coverlock does an excellent job with this. But it is far from always possible to buy 2 cars at once. Plus, they take up too much space. That's why there are machines that imitate overlock seams. It is about this seam that we will talk about. Let's figure out what is the difference between a seam and an overcast.

An imitation of an overlock seam helps out in cases where people do not have an overlock. But it is worth noting that a sewing machine will never be able to secure the thread in the fabric as tightly as an overlock. These stitches will always be less elastic and less straight. The seams made on the overlock are smoother as the overlock has the function of cutting off excess fabric. This gives the machine the advantage of beautifully finished edges.

The sewing machine does not have this function. To perform it, you need to install a special foot.

Such a line is performed quite simply. First, step back from the edge a short distance and make a straight stitch. Then sew a zigzag stitch. One edge of the zigzag should overlap the straight stitch that was sewn earlier. In the future, the excess tissue is cut off.

With this processing of a tissue cut the main thing is not to overtighten the seams, otherwise the threads will simply burst from the tension. If you do not have not only an overlocker, but also a sewing machine, the pseudo-overlocker stitching can be done manually. The way it is made is similar to making a seam on a sewing machine.

Modern models of overlockers are capable of performing many types of seams. For example, a 3- or 4-thread seam is the best option for a home workshop. A 5-thread stitch is used when sewing thick fabrics or outerwear. For processing thin and light fabrics, it is customary to use a double-thread stitch. 3-strand seams will stretch thin fabric, and the product will end up looking ugly. A double thread stitch is suitable for:

• chiffon scarves or blouses;
• processing the edge of flounces, ruffles, frills;
• sewing on guipure or mesh.

It should be noted that now all overlock machines come with a flow of 3 threads. To set up a two-thread flow, you will have to remove one of the needles, set the lever in the correct position (on each machine this is done in accordance with the instructions). Next, you need to increase the thread tension in the lower looper and adjust the feed of the fabric so that no punctures or "waves" are formed. Of course, setting up a 3- or 4-strand overlock into a 2-strand overlock will take time. But the time spent is more than offset by the money saved.

If you are an amateur in the sewing business, then it is not necessary to have both a sewing machine and an overlock in your arsenal. It's just that when buying a typewriter, you need to pay attention to the fact whether it can do overlock stitching. If so, then you can overcast the edge with an imitation overlock stitch. If you decide to sell your products or sew to order, then an overlock is a must. Indeed, with such a device, the speed of tissue processing will increase, as well as the chance that the seam will disintegrate will decrease.

How to make overlock stitches on a household sewing machine is described in the video.