Sharpening hairdressing tools

The quality of the haircut depends on the quality of the professional hairdresser's tool. One of the important criteria is the sharpness of the scissors and razors. In this case, sharpening must be carried out either in a specialized workshop specifically for a hairdressing tool, or at home with a certain type of machine.

There is no consensus on how often hairdressing tools should be sharpened - every master does this based on the frequency of use of scissors and their quality. He already feels with his “fingers” that the inventory needs sharpening. Novice hairdressers are advised to sharpen every six months and pay more attention to the condition of the blades. Criteria for when it is time to carry the instrument to the master:

• the cutting edges of the scissors have changed color;
• blades adjoin each other with a gap;
• the blades are not perfectly smooth and are chipped and burr.

There is an opinion that after each sharpening the scissors become blunt faster. That's why the master of the haircut has its own master of the grinder, which provides professional scissors with the maximum allowable renewal of the blades without loss of quality.

Thinning scissors are sharpened on one side as usual, and on the other, the blade is sharpened, depending on its shape and the size of the notch.

There are several types of grinding machines.

• Manual - the well-known "fish" or household machine for sharpening scissors.
• Tabletop - small compact, weighing from 5 to 10 kg, costing from 2500 rubles.
• Professional - large-sized devices weighing up to 50 kg and costing from 40,000 rubles. As a rule, they are subdivided into machines for knives, manicure and surgical instruments, hairdressing scissors.

In turn, all machines are divided into subgroups according to the location of the faceplate, the spindle rotation speed, the adjustment of the sharpening angles (from 0 to 57 degrees), the diameter of the sharpening discs. For hairdressing scissors and blades, it is better to use machines with a horizontal faceplate., on which a grinding disc of the required diameter and abrasive is installed.

On machines from Germany, laser calibration is often set - a sight according to which even a novice master can easily set the required sharpening angle. And also on the equipment there is a precise adjustment of the speed of rotation of the disk, which ensures minimal grinding of metal from the blade. To protect the eyes from metal particles on the machine, a visor is provided, to prevent their inhalation - a mask.

For professional equipment, the spindle runout should be as low as 0.11, and it is necessarily prescribed in the technical documentation.

Scissors can also be sharpened at home with even the simplest machine. The main criterion for dressing the blades is the required sharpening angle. Do not try to sharpen your hairdressing tool at a minimum angle - although it will become super sharp, it will only work a couple of times. The smaller the sharpening angle, the sharper and thinner the blade, therefore, the tool dulls faster. Optimum is 45 degrees, if you plan on making the edge thinner you need to make sure the blades are made of very high quality steel.

Micro-serrated scissors sharpen at the most obtuse angle of 55 degrees. Thanks to the notches on the blade, they catch hair and cut it perfectly. However, a special disc is required to dress such blades.

It is not recommended to sharpen convex scissors yourselfbecause it is difficult to repeat it at home. In a conventional tool, the blade itself goes at a certain small angle, and then abruptly goes into an angle of 45 degrees. The border of the transition is clearly visible here, and it is easy to repeat it on the machine.

If you have regular hairdressing scissors without micro-notches on the blade, then you need to start by diagnosing the tool. Then it must be disassembled, cleaned and washed. The tool is washed with soap, dishwashing liquid. If a rolling bearing is used, then wash with water strictly up to the screw group. It is impossible to wash with washing powder - steel deteriorates.

Straightening (if required) removes curvatures after a fall or bent ends. After that, the wear of the back surface of both blades is already negated. If necessary, it is worth grinding (honing) to eliminate micro-roughness. This is followed by flushing and cleaning again.

Then there is a transition to the front surface of the blades and their grinding is carried out, then the notches on the leading blade are removed, its correction and polishing is done. It is followed by the leading edge of the driven blade.

After sharpening, the scissors are lubricated and reassembled. At the end, the course of the two canvases is adjusted relative to each other.

How to sharpen scissors, see below.