Do-it-yourself patterns and sewing of a sheath dress
The versatile tight-fitting style has been emphasizing the charms of the female figure for decades. It is rightfully considered the basic element of the wardrobe. And if an elegant sheath dress has not settled in your closet, it's time to fix this situation.
Below are the patterns of different models of this style, which will definitely please your taste.
Basque
It is enough to add one element to a classic dress, for example a peplum, to make it play in a new way.
To model a tight-fitting dress with a peplum, you need a base pattern, adjusted according to your own measurements, because the outfit must fit perfectly on the figure.
Only the upper part will be modeled, the skirt will remain classic, so we cut the pattern along the waist line:
- On the details from the waistline, measure up 3 cm and cut off the belt. Glue the darts.
- Set aside 6 cm from the armhole depth line and draw a relief. Depending on the physique and desire, the number may vary. You can understand how best to model the relief if you attach the pattern to yourself and put a dot at the mirror.
- Move the waist darts and cut the front and back along the created relief lines.
Cut and close the shoulder dart at the front of the bodice. A small dart has formed, which should also be closed.
Model the armhole by setting aside 5 cm along the shoulder from the neckline. Now draw new lines.
To model a basque, calculate a radius that equals 1/6 of the waist circumference and draw a semicircle. It remains to set aside the length of the part and draw a second semicircle.
Now cut open the fabric and sew the dress.
With shuttlecock
The tight-fitting case will be significantly transformed due to the vertical fluffy flounce with folds fanning out at the waist.
Sewing
- Reshoot the details of the pattern and increase to the desired size.
- On the upper part of the front (det. 1), stitch the bust dart, and on the lower part (det. 2), stitch the folds from the seamy side, and then stitch the detail to the upper part.
- Fold the folds on the shuttlecock (det. 3). Place it on the right relief cut in front, face to face, and baste to the marks. Baste the short cut to the shoulder cut. Sew the right side of the front (det. 4) to the bodice.
- Sew darts on the front from the lining (det. 6), then baste the detail to the front from the main fabric.
- On the details of the back and lining (det. 5), grind darts and sew a zipper. On the lining, sew a middle seam, leaving room for the zipper to be sewn in.
Spline machining
- From the mark of the slots to the zipper, make a middle seam.
- Sweep the slot along the seam line, iron the seam.
- To understand which side the slot should lie on, turn the part over the wrong side down and put the right side on the left. Secure the cut with a pin and flip the piece over again.
- Press on the slot on both sides, make a notch in the corner of the seam and insert a reinforcement stitch at the top.
The slot is processed by the lining in this way:
- Fold over the left lining allowance and press it on. Fold it to the right side, pin the left seam allowance and stitch.
- Notch the allowances on the right side in the corner. Tuck the allowance, iron and pin.
- Fold back the lining to the left and stitch on the right allowance, then fold down and sew the upper allowance.
Tuck the lining, stitch to the zipper and sew the dress.
With sleeve
In autumn and winter, cases with short and long sleeves are popular. It is not at all difficult to model and sew such a model.
- Cut the standard pattern of the front of the dress along the waist line.
- Move the dart on the skirt to the side.
- From the line of the hips, set aside 8 cm down, then narrow the skirt by 1.5 cm. Make the length of the skirt from the waist as you wish. This also applies to the modeling of the neck.
- From the armhole, lay down 5 cm. From this point to the center point of the chest, draw a line.
- Close the shoulder dart and create a bib.
Model a slit on the back, deepen the neckline and narrow the skirt.
Shorten the sleeve or, on the contrary, lengthen.
Asymmetrical
Contrasting stripes are the easiest option to successfully correct the figure, making it visually slimmer.
You will need a cross-stretch striped gabardine and an invisible zip. You can also choose a bielastic fabric.
- To the upper part of the front bodice (det. 21), sew the left yoke of the front (det. 22) and the lower part of the front bodice (det. 23).
- Sew the back yoke (det. 24) with the back bodice (det. 25).
- Sew side seams on the bodice of the dress.
- Sew the upper part of the front panel of the skirt (det. 26) with the middle part (det. 27) and the lower part (det. 28).
- Sew darts on the back panels of the skirt (det. 29), then sew side seams.
- Stitch the skirt with the top and sew in a zipper.
- On the facing of the front (det. 30) and back (det. 31), stitch the shoulder sections and stitch to the front and back.
- Iron and sew by hand for hem allowance.
Color blocking
Contrast inserts and a slit on the skirt of the dress will highlight the benefits of the figure in the best way.
You will need a bi-elastic knitted double-faced fabric and a 60 cm zipper.
- Sew the middle part of the front bodice with a fold (det. 1) with side details (det. 2).
- Do the same with the details of the bodice of the back (det. 3 and 4), only stitch the zipper in the embossed cut with the middle and left side detail.
- Front and back hem with fold (det. 11 and det. 12) pin to the bodice and stitch. Sew shoulder seams and sew side cuts to dress and piping.
- Sew the middle part of the front panel of the folded skirt (det. 7) with the side parts (det. 8). Sew the raised seams on the details of the back panel of the skirt (parts 9 and 10), then sew the side seams.
- Set-in belt with a fold (det. 5) Stitch with the middle back of the set-in belt with a fold (det. 6) and stitch to the skirt and bodice
- Sew the zipper to the cut, then sew the left embossed seam on the back from the bottom to the zipper.
- Hem the bottom of the dress.
Regardless of whether you design a pattern yourself or use a ready-made one, a sheath dress should emphasize your merits, thus becoming an indispensable option for all occasions.