How to sew a petticoat?
Of all the accessories for a wedding dress, the petticoat is the most "modest" and not noticeable. On his account there are many merits. He will create volume, and give shape, and add elegance, and make a modest image with a transparent top skirt.
This element is vital for princess dresses, A-line dresses and chunky new bow dresses. Therefore, we will consider with you different options for sewing a wedding petticoat, and you can use the model you like for other important outfits.
Simple
It is impossible to come up with a simpler petticoat "Tatyanka". Here you don't need any special skills to sew on your own.
First you need to take measurements. This is the girth of the hips and the length of the petticoat.
To find out the width of the waist, multiply the circumference of the hips by the gathering factor. Its value is in the range of 1.5-3.5 times. Here it is up to you to decide how fluffy the skirt will be. The main thing to take into account is that the stiffer the fabric, the lower the coefficient will be.
The length is measured from the waist or where the petticoat will be located to the desired length. Moreover, it should be shorter than the dress.
Now we take, according to the measurements, a piece of rectangular fabric. You can use any well-fitting lining fabric. It is advisable to pre-steam it so that there is no shrinkage when washing the finished product. The cotton fabric is lined up. You can also take a mesh (tulle), but in this case the volume in the waist will be large.
Seam side cuts with a double stitch or overcasting seam. Then grind them. Stitch the top and bottom hem with a closed hem. At the same time, in the upper cut, leave room for pulling the elastic. The bottom hem should be wider so that the bottom of the skirt holds its shape better. And for rigidity, you can insert fishing line or crossbar.
Be sure to steam all seams well. After threading the elastic, grind its ends together into a ring.
A master class on sewing a simple petticoat is in the video below.
Lush
A dress can become fluffy in two cases - this is the use of rings or layering. It is believed that the latter option is more applicable for non-fluffy models, as well as short or medium-length dresses.
If you are already the owner of a petticoat with rings, then the layered version will hide convex hoops.
From tulle for a half-sun skirt
For a petticoat under a half-sun skirt, the volume at the waist and hips is not needed. Therefore, a half-sun skirt and tulle frills will serve as the basis.
From the material you will need a lining base (calico or silk) and tulle.
Take the necessary measurements for the half-sun skirt (waist and length), taking into account the splendor of the future dress and cut it out of the fabric. Process the top.
Be sure to leave room for the elastic if you don't have a button or zip fastener.
Ideally, the petticoat should not be visible, but if the model has such an idea, then the hem of the petticoat should match the fabric of the dress. And for decoration are lace or satin ribbon.
Cut out 3-8 rows of ruffles from tulle. The upper tier should cover the seam of the lower tier by 3-4 cm. Therefore, the frill height is calculated from the distance between the tiers.
Narrow ones will add splendor, but they will be able to puff up under the light fabric of the dress, and wide ones will give roundness to the silhouette.
The length depends on the splendor you choose. The bottom frill should be the fullest. Its length can be safely multiplied by 3.
Each cut out frill must be sewn into a ring along the side cut. Process the bottom.
Along the top cuts, sew one or two stitches at a time for even tightening. Sew the tightened rings to the desired size. If you wish, you can make bookmarks manually, and then sew on a typewriter.
It remains to try on the petticoat with the dress. If the petticoat is very tangled in the legs, then sew on a weighting material, soft wire or regilin, making a narrow drawstring.
From the mesh on the rings
In order not to get confused all day in the multi-layered skirts of a magnificent wedding dress, we will sew a petticoat on the rings.
Cut out a skirt of the desired splendor from the mesh, which determines the number of rings and their length. As a basis, you can take a half-sun skirt, a sun or a six-winged skirt. In this case, the wedges must correspond to 1/4 of the circle.
The belt can be held with an elastic band and additional ties, or you can sew in a hidden zipper.
Now it remains to secure the rings with a wide satin ribbon.
- Turn the finished petticoat to the wrong side. Attach a ring to the bottom of it. Pin the tape on top of it so that it completely covers it. Then carefully sew along the upper and lower cuts of the tape so as not to break the machine.
- There is a second way - to stitch the seams, and then thread a ring or regilin.
Fasten the rest of the hoops at the same distance from each other.
The petticoat is ready. It remains to turn it inside out and if you want it to have a rounded shape, sew ruffles. Their width should be equal to the distance between the rings. Length - selected individually.
For a dress in the style of dandies
For a bold vintage bridal look, you need the same foundation. Very lush and multicolored at will.
Therefore, we take a yoke as a basis, and the lower skirt will be made of a multi-layer 3-tiered soft tulle. Hard can tear pantyhose.
Cutting and sewing layers
To sew an American petticoat, you just need to decide on the length, waist size and the number of layers.
The length of the petticoat must be divided by three to get the ruffle width. The length of the 1st tier is calculated by multiplying the waist by 2. The second - by multiplying by 4 and the length of the 3rd tier - by multiplying by 8. For example, with a volume of 60 cm, you get 120 cm; 240cm and 480cm.
Treat the bottom of the last tier with a satin trim or lace, and pull the top cut to the length of the second tier (240 cm).Sew them together.
Pull the upper cut of the second tier to the length of the first (120 cm). Sew the first tier to the second. The first layer is ready. Follow the same layers as the first.
To make the top of the petticoat more rigid, the yoke in the first layer can be made of satin.
Belt
Measure the exact length of the waistband and sew the side cuts to the middle. Iron the seam.
- Fold the belt in half lengthwise and iron the fold along the right side.
- Fold the skirt and belt facing each other and stitch.
- Fold the second cut by 8 mm and baste to the upper cut of the skirt from the wrong side, overlapping the seam of the belt by 2 mm. Then secure the waistband with blind stitches or sew along the seam on the right side of the skirt.
- Sew 4 lines to the waistband and pull the elastic through the holes in the side cut. Sew the elastic into a ring, and then tuck inward.
A not very fluffy petticoat of three layers looks like this.
The petticoat is not so easy to sew. You need a good sewing machine and skills in working with such fabric. Girls, first, just practice stitching the tulle exactly.
It takes an ordinary sewing machine and hellish patience to collect all these kilometers of frills into a skirt.