Features of volumetric eyelash extension
Eyelash extension is a beauty service that has long ceased to be rare and exotic. Every woman in a few hours can transform her appearance by simply changing the expressiveness of her eyes. Experts say that there are no standardized procedures, that extensions are always unique and require an individual approach. And the volumetric build-up is the same creative process with a subtle approach, adapting to the features of the appearance and the client's needs.
What it is?
Extension of eyelash rods - a technique for modeling the appearance. The transformation takes place due to the adhesion of artificial fibers to natural hairs. Artificial hairs look like their own. Volumetric extension sees as its goal not so much to change the shape of the eye, the length of the eyelashes, but to increase their volume.
For most women, natural eyelashes do not differ in rich natural pigment, and they may not have enough volume. The extension technique allows you to create weightless volume without makeup effect. Eyelashes become fluffy, acquire a natural graceful curve. Craftsmen attach such material that does not weigh down their own ciliary row. Therefore, eyelash extensions do not cause discomfort, do not require daily makeup, and do not take a long time to get used to.
The main advantage of building up today Is the use of hypoallergenic materials. This means that the procedure is suitable for all women.
Lashmaker works with high quality synthetic fibers that mimic silk, sable, mink or human hair.
Who is it for?
The main contraindication for eyelash extension - unwillingness to accept new self. But there are few such cases, and those clients who come to the lashmaker usually still imagine what awaits them. Volume eyelash extensions are suitable for:
- young girls;
- middle-aged women (but the volume option needs to be changed already);
- older ladies, if they are used to bright makeup.
Another important condition for building - strong own eyelashes. Artificial hairs are attached not to the eyelid, but to their eyelashes. For this fixation to be reliable, your own hairs cannot be very sparse or brittle. Therefore, you should not be offended by the master who sent the client to improve the eyelashes.
First, you will have to strengthen your own, so that under the weight of artificial ones you do not completely spoil your ciliary row.
How is it different from the classic one?
Classic extension - This is a method in which one synthetic is attached to each of its hairs. In fact, you get double the volume according to the formula 1 + 1. It is not as conspicuous as other extensions. The classic method looks as natural as possible, does not create the illusion of makeup eyelashes, so others rarely guess that the girl resorted to such a cosmetic trick.
Volumetric build-up assumes an initially exaggerated effect. A whole bunch of synthetic ones is glued to one hair of its own. What the bundle will be depends on the type of volumetric build-up. The client chooses it.
The lashmaker forms a bundle not in advance, but during the procedure itself, because it is possible to pick up the ideal hairs only during the session.
For a successful volumetric build-up, the master must follow strict rules.
- He must monitor the uniformity of the beam opening. From which it follows that there must be an equal spacing between adjacent fibers in the bundle.
- It keeps track of the equality of the bundles. For example, if a beam of 2D volume with an opening of 2 mm is already fixed, then this opening should be maintained for all subsequent beams. They cannot differ in width, length, all this is a marriage of the work of a master.
- Finally, the leg of the bundle in a competent volumetric extension will be no more than a third of the length of synthetic eyelashes. For example, if a lashmaker has formed a 9 mm bundle, then its leg cannot be longer than 3 mm.
The thickness in the volumetric technology is determined by the given volume. The more fibers there are in a bundle, the thinner these fibers are. The length will depend on the initial data of the client and on her request. The master can suggest the length that, in his opinion, will be harmonious for a particular person.
Varieties
There are several technologies that create volume. Sometimes the classic extension is called full volume, because an artificial one is attached to each of its cilia. That is, new fibers appear in all areas of the ciliary row. Incomplete volume, in comparison with the previous one, is an extension of only half of the hairs.
Full
One of the most popular extension methods is 2D volume. This type of modeling involves gluing two artificial eyelashes to one real eyelash. The ends of the artificial fibers are directed in different directions. If the client wishes, the master tries to keep the effect natural, but other options are also possible. This method is suitable for medium thick eyelashes. Here are some other options.
- 3D. It is logical to assume that in this case, there is a bunch of three artificial ones for one of your hairs. Usually this technology is used by women who need to hide short and sparse eyelashes. The look becomes expressive, both length and volume change. But on weak eyelashes, such a large "load" may not hold. The difference between 2D and 3D is that in the first case, the thickness of the hairs is from 0.07 to 0.1 mm, and in the second, from 0.05 to 0.07 mm.
- 4D (or Hollywood volume). On one of its eyelashes - 4 artificial fibers. Hypervolume, but there is no more naturalness in it.More often chosen for weddings, celebrations, photo sessions.
- 5D (mega volume). For one natural eyelash - 5-7 synthetic. There are downsides to this extension: your own hairs have a heavy load. For the Russian (Slavic) type of appearance, such density is unusual, therefore the difference between the real picture and the resulting volume will be striking in the literal sense. But women's requests are different, there are even 9D and 12D volumes, although they are not used for everyday wear, but for some creative projects, shows, photo shoots, etc.
Do you need the maximum volume - each client decides for herself. The master must delicately advise her on the best option, focusing on the initial data and, of course, on the condition of the eyelashes.
Clients do not always understand that with a large volume, eyelashes cannot remain weightless.
Incomplete
With such an extension, artificial fibers are glued at intervals, it can be either 1 hair or 5. If the volume is incomplete, the option of partial extension in a certain area of the ciliary row is also possible. For example, synthetic fibers are fixed only at the outer corners of the eyes, and the ciliary volume increases by one and a half times.
Sparse build-up is becoming more and more popular, because it allows you to correct the existing problem as naturally and delicately as possible. Unlike hypervolumes, there is no abrupt change in appearance. Very often, girls who previously adhered to only the maximum volume switch to sparse build-up.
It is also easier to maintain in terms of adjustments.
Beam shaping
The bundles can be purchased ready-made. For example, a basic set of beams is for training a lashmaker. Finished bundles are fixed on a special tape, where they are distributed along the length and thickness. While working, the master removes them from the tape, transfers them to the working part and fixes them on a natural hair.
Algorithm for the formation of beams.
- You need to cut off a strip from the tape, stick it on the tablet, covered with a protective tape.
- The bundles are laid out on the tape. The master forms them from single hairs. This is how beams of different volumes are created.
- The specialist forms beams in the "heel".
- The master lowers each finished bundle into glue, removes excess glue drops, and glues the finished bundle to the tablet.
A very interesting extension option can be colored beams. For example, dark blue and dark brown shades are great combined. The master usually attaches colored fibers to the area of the outer corner of the eye. And there is also the option of fixing colored threads along the ciliary row. A competent craftsman will create an elegant alternation of complex shades. The specialist combines the bundles in size: eyelashes can be either of the same length, or with its increase to the outer corners.
Materials (edit)
Each master has his own kit that he uses in building. The basic elements in it are the same. What's in this kit?
- Patches. They allow you to separate the upper and lower ciliary rows. Hydrogel patches do this perfectly. Special adhesive tapes can be used instead.
- Degreaser. Without it, it is impossible to achieve a lasting result. Only make-up remover is indispensable. The greasy layer should not remain on the skin, it will prevent the glue from working properly.
- Primer. Neutralizes the remains of cosmetics, helps the scales of your own eyelashes to open. It enhances the effect of the glue, therefore the wear period of the artificial eyelashes is increased.
- Tweezers. Each set has primo and curved tweezers. Lashmaker holds in his non-working hand straight tweezers separating natural eyelashes. In his working hand, he has curved tweezers, he picks up synthetic hairs from the palette and fixes them to the glue. The best tweezers are made from stainless steel.
- Glue. A pro can handle fast-drying glue, a beginner is better off working with a medium or long-speed hitch.The product must be anti-allergenic, absolutely safe.
- Hair. They are called mink and sable, but these names are arbitrary, all eyelashes are synthetic in nature. Mink fibers are soft, matte, of small thickness. Sable - denser and harder, which allows you to create the effect of painted eyelashes. Silk eyelashes are made from a black polymer thread with a glossy sheen.
- Remover. It can be liquid, cream, gel-like. Liquid can only be used to clean instruments; a gel-like remover is suitable to remove individual fibers. And in order to completely separate the artificial lash line, you need to take a creamy composition.
Complete this list with antiseptics, disposable gloves, microbrushes, silicone styling brushes, glue pad, lashbox, etc.
Subtleties of choice
The selection of the type of extension is covered in three criteria - thickness, length and bend.
- Thickness. Small diameter eyelashes are suitable for women with their thin and sparse hairs. Fibers with diameters of 0.15 mm already have the effect of painted eyelashes. An open and bright look gives a fiber thickness of 0.20 mm. The thickness of 0.25 mm is an extension for a special occasion, the hairs are unlikely to be suitable for daily wear, they will wrinkle.
- Length. The spacing varies from 4 to 20 mm. For those looking for a natural and discreet result, it will be enough to choose a length of 4-5 mm for the lower lashes and 6-9 mm for the upper ones. But the own length of the eyelashes, and the depth of the eyes, and the shape of the eyes, and the shape of the face, and other points are taken into account.
- Bend. For example, the C-bend makes the look open and expressive, while the D makes the look more puppet, and the effect makes theatrical.
A good master will not do to the client what she asks for and what absolutely does not suit her.
Extension procedure
The extension technology is the same for all types. There are defining moments, but the algorithm of the method is the same.
Correct extension technique.
- The client's own eyelashes must be cleaned of cosmetics and degreased with a special tool. If the master has not degreased the hairs, the glue will dissolve in natural grease.
- The master closes the lower eyelid with a patch or collagen mask.
- With special tweezers, the lashmaker holds the bundle, and touches the glue with its blunt tip.
- With the second tweezers, the master pushes the hairs away to the sides of the selected eyelash and sticks artificial hair 1.5-2 mm from the eyelid skin. With a volumetric build-up, a whole bunch is glued at once.
- Lower lashes can be extended too. Only the adhesive composition used will be different, since such an extension can be made only with open eyes.
- The master processes artificial fibers with a fixer.
The glue hardens almost instantly, but only after a while will complete polymerization occur. Leshmaker will be sure to instruct the client on how to care for new eyelashes. For the first few hours, you shouldn't even touch them. The procedure itself is lengthy. So, incomplete extension takes from 40 minutes to an hour on average. But for the 3D version, for example, you need at least 2 hours.
Examples of
The above can be illustrated by examples of successful volumetric build-up.
Initial data - very modest, light and short eyelashes. Volume build-up will allow you to do without daily makeup.
If the eyebrows are shaped correctly, by themselves, they are dark and thick, you can not be afraid of such a volume.
Classic example: the difference between three volumes... In the first case, not everyone will guess that the girl resorted to building up. The second option already hints at the nature of the transformation, the third is chosen well in terms of shade and combination with the shape of the eyebrows.
Delicate build-up for a brown-eyed girl with thick dark eyebrows.
If you really want lush eyelashes, this is how it might look.
A beautiful example of volumetric extensions, the look becomes velvety.
And this is how they look colored blotches in the volumetric technique.
If your eyelashes are sparse, extensions can give this result. But first it does not hurt to undergo therapy to improve and strengthen hair.
You can find out about the rules for caring for extended eyelashes in the next video.