How to sew knitwear on a sewing machine and what to do if it doesn't work?
Many housewives love to sew various things with their own hands. Knitted clothes are always available and comfortable. Sometimes there is a desire to create something pleasant to the touch from knitwear. But as soon as the sewing process begins, the whole mood disappears. The work is not going well: the thread breaks, and the seam turns out to be out of the ordinary.
In such a situation, many are wondering what should be done to fix this problem. You will receive ambiguous answers to this question. And what you should do, decide for yourself.
Why can't I flash the material?
Amateur seamstresses often complain that they cannot sew 2 knitted halves on a household sewing machine. The bobbin thread loops and breaks. There is no question of performing an even line. And there is nothing surprising here, since seamstresses are simply not adapted to carry out such operations as sewing knitwear. However, if you try, you can still achieve the desired result. First, you need to set up the machine for flawless operation.
Lubricate, tighten loose parts. Here you need to seek professional help. However, you don't need to do this if you bought a new model. In most cases, these machines do an excellent job with a variety of tasks and perform a wide variety of seams.
However, you need to know that for sewing knitwear, a special knitting machine is used, which performs a back seam that resembles a pigtail. Professionals call such highly specialized models rasping or chain stitching machines.
If you continue to consider this issue further, then keep in mind that overlocks are considered the best models for sewing fabrics such as stretch and knitwear. A differential rail is mandatory on them, which has a sewing chain stitch lining. Specially selected threads and needles play an important role in the successful tailoring of stretch fabrics. If their size and quality do not meet the requirements, then you will not be able to complete the task, even on a special machine.
A thick needle or the wrong needle is not suitable for sewing delicate fabrics. Just keep in mind that it is impossible to sew on the same equipment without special tuning, alternately jeans and a thin T-shirt.
Which car is right?
If at home you use an ordinary household machine, and besides, it is not a modern model, then sewing knitwear will present a certain difficulty for you. But if you put into practice the advice of experienced needlewomen, then you can cope with the task.
Regular
Modern models can perform many different curly seams. Therefore, with some tricks, you can make delicate fabrics.
Let's consider separately the seams that can be used when sewing knitted halves.
- Straight stitch it has a right to exist if you sew a weakly stretched fabric. It usually has a characteristic thickness.
- Stretch seam can be used when you are going to make a vertical seam. For horizontal seams, this direction is undesirable, since you will get a strong stretch of the canvas. However, even in the latter case, the solution may be to loosen the pressure of the presser foot.
- Zigzag seam can perform even the oldest machines. This option is most suitable for sewing stretch fabrics.
- Wide zigzag (# 10) gives very good stretch, and such a seam does not break when the web is pulled.
- If your car there is a function of the overcast stitching, then you are in luck... This seam is considered optimal.
Let us also consider the question of why the stage of sewing stretch fabrics is difficult. The problem may be lurking in the wrong needle. Those needles that are installed on household machines are not very suitable for sewing knitwear. Too sharp ends of such specimens often tear the weave of the knitted fabric. In addition, a sharp needle when stitching through knitwear tends to create too small loops near the eye of the needle. And the nose of the shuttle is designed so that it passes by such a loop without catching the upper thread. Here is the reason for the appearance of the omissions.
To make the process go better, it is worth replacing the sharp needle with a special one with a rounded tip. It is these items that are designed for sewing delicate fabrics.
This type of needles does not pierce the fibers of the fabric, but smoothly passes between them, and then it becomes possible to create a loop.
Jersey
Let's say that a model that will to some extent be able to combine knitted halves will fit for home needlework. However, such seams will still not differ in high quality. And if you want to approach sewing knitwear from a professional point of view, then you are unlikely to like this option. You just need to know that very stretchy fabrics are not stitching and overcasting on a sewing machine. Such actions are performed on the overlock.
Sewing machines, which are called overlock sewing machines, can only imitate overlock seams, since they do not have a special differential toothed rack. It is this detail that is the basis that allows you to sew knitwear with high quality.
So, we can conclude that the smallest jersey is wrapped with a 3-thread overlock stitch. Many overlocks do it with ease. For knitwear of the 5th grade of medium knit, you will need a 4-thread stitch.Larger knits can be sewn with a 5-thread stitch, which consists of a 2-thread chain stitch and a 3-thread overlock stitch. However, not all overlocks can make high-quality jersey stitches.
And in order to perform seams in this direction, you need a machine that will cost more and fully meet all the requirements. The machine with a special direction will definitely cope with the task of sewing knitwear.
Needle selection
At this time, consumers are offered various types of needles. Home seamstresses or professionals can only make the right choice. It all depends on the type of sewing machine. Almost all types of needles are suitable for many models.
For knitwear, needles need to be selected, taking into account a number of nuances.
- Models with which knitwear is sewn should be with a rounded end. Look for Jersey and Ball Point to buy specialty needles.
- The eye of the needle should slide easily through the fabric. Knit needles have a slightly smaller eyelet than simple units. For sewing stretch fabrics, these are the needles that you need to buy.
- Knit needles should have multiple grooves (notches).
- The rods should be of medium thickness.
- The size of the needle must match the bulb into which it will be inserted.
Threads and their tension
Household sewing machines do not work well if they are equipped with knitted threads, and not ordinary cotton threads. And so that the work goes well, and the seam on the knitwear is good, you need to choose the right threads and try to regulate their tension. Please note that jersey must be sewn using synthetic-based elastic threads. You can easily buy them in the store. Coarse and thick cotton threads will definitely not work.
Tangle and breakage of threads can be eliminated by adjusting the tension. However, if you sew with special threads, then these steps are not required.
Basic sewing rules
So, stretch and stretch fabric on a regular sewing machine can be easily stitched with a few tricks. It is even possible to get an elastic straight seam by stitching it at home with your beloved assistant. Knitwear almost does not crumble, therefore it is not necessary to overcast it. To make the task doable, you need to follow simple rules.
- If you start sewing 2 halves of tight and low stretch jersey, then a straight stitch is suitable here.
- For other cases, the simple method will not work. More whimsical knits or stretch fabrics require elastic seams such as a zigzag. The main thing is to choose the right thread and choose its tension.
And here are a few more secrets. Some experienced housewives put thick paper under the knitwear (you can put a newspaper). Thus, they "cheat" the sewing process. The machine will sew on a dense warp and at the same time sew on delicate fabrics. Thus, it is less torn and stretched. After sewing, the paper is removed. The same cannot be said about the gauze pad.
Seamstresses also use this technique if they do not have the necessary equipment at hand.
For information on how to sew knitwear on a sewing machine, see the next video.