How to sew a dress

Choosing the right fabric for your wedding dress

Choosing the right fabric for your wedding dress
Content
  1. Classification
  2. Views
  3. Features of working with fabrics

When the large selection of wedding dresses presented in wedding salons does not satisfy, the option remains to sew the dress by yourself or contact an atelier. In any case, you need to choose the right fabric so that it matches the season, the style of the celebration and is comfortable to be in, so that it is pleasant to the touch. Each fabric has its own advantages and disadvantages, which must be taken into account when choosing and sewing.

A wedding dress in which you are comfortable

Classification

Conventionally, fabrics for sewing wedding dresses can be divided into types.

By seasons:

  • for a summer wedding, airy, lightweight fabrics are used;
  • for winter - dense and light, if they are sewn onto a "warm" fabric;

By models:

  • for intricate models, they choose form-stable matter, elastic and dense with a volumetric structure;
  • any dress fabric is suitable for a simple cut of a wedding dress.

By type of raw material:

  • natural;
  • synthetic.

By invoice:

  • matte;
  • shiny;
  • reflective light (e.g. organza, silk, satin);
  • structured;
  • air
  • mixed.

Views

Such fabrics as satin, brocade, chiffon, taffeta, organza, tulle are considered classic. Fabrics with relief patterns and ornaments are very popular.

Atlas

Satin's chic, regal look attracts a lot of attention thanks to its smooth and mostly shiny surface. It is very suitable for the base of a dress, since its density allows it to withstand finishing with beads, glass beads, crystals, while it does not sag or stretch. That is why it occupies a special place in tailoring and is in great demand compared to other types of fabrics for wedding dresses.

The atlas is also interesting because it can be supplemented with various interesting effects, for example, "wrinkled" trim or embroidery. Often in wedding dresses, matte fabrics are used along with it, thus dimming its shine.

Use satin for fall and winter wedding dresses. Also, this fabric is suitable for weddings in palace interiors at any time of the year. The style can be any, very beautifully soft and flowing satin looks on dresses in the Greek style.

There are several types of satin: duchess satin - very shiny fabric and matt satin - fabric without glitter.

One drawback should be borne in mind when choosing this luxurious fabric. Satin wrinkles very easily, especially for fabrics made from natural silk fibers. Additionally, he is able to show flaws in the bride's figure, crumpling into folds in those places where it is not needed at all. Also keep in mind that in summer it will be hot in a satin dress, and a long, beautifully draped train will be hard to wear. Thus, you need to use an atlas if you are confident in the perfection of your figure.

Satin

Satin is somewhat similar to satin, it is also beautiful, durable and practically does not wrinkle. Its surface can be smooth matte or shiny, silky to the touch. Looks gorgeous with embroidery.

Satin wedding dress

Silk

Silk wedding dresses are considered the most expensive. Brides look chic, elegant and, of course, feminine, especially in tight-fitting models, such as the mermaid and the A-silhouette. The main thing is to choose the right style. The fit should be perfect.

Such fabric is very pleasant to the touch, which will suit girls with delicate skin.

It is worth noting such disadvantages of chiffon:

  • Like many natural fabrics, smooth and light silk will wrinkle. Better to choose a tight fit.
  • The next disadvantage is the complexity of working with the fabric. It can slide, slide out, so a high-class craftsman should be entrusted with the sewing of a silk wedding dress.
  • Also, when choosing silk for a formal dress, keep in mind that the shiny surface is slightly plump. This is more noticeable in wedding photographs.

Organza

Another name for this fabric is "gas". Organza is a very thin, transparent, light and airy matter, slightly stiff to the touch, but shimmering effectively in the sun. She impresses with the play of colors in draperies, folds and creases.

There is also a matte organza. It is considered a noble matter and its cost is somewhat more expensive. Such fabric is able to make a wedding dress more magnificent, light and graceful. And thanks to its rigidity, it keeps its shape well, therefore it is successfully used in decoration. Namely, interesting frills, cute ruffles, flounces, high collars, puffy sleeves are sewn from it. You can sew a petticoat from organza.

Chiffon

Another light and translucent fabric makes the wedding dress romantic and airy. Chiffon is lighter than organza, so it drapes very well, which is why dresses are called flowing. Chiffon is used mainly for decorating an outfit (complex drapery, fluffy skirt, sleeves, bodice trim, veil) and almost never as the basis of a dress.

Empire style chiffon wedding dresses are convenient for celebrations in nature or abroad (the fabric is packed compactly, which is convenient for weddings away from home). In summer it will not be hot, but on the contrary, it will be easy and comfortable.

Fatin

Tulle, "English mesh" is the second name of tulle, which reflects its essence - mesh. WITHWade dresses, or rather voluminous and light skirts, I sew from soft and thin material. Of course, a veil is also sewn from it.

Tulle is easy to work with, its edges do not need to be processed, which allows you to create flying models of wedding dresses. Because of this, the fabric is so loved by tailors and fashion designers, for example, Vera Wong. She releases stunning dress designs every season in such a simple fabric.

Lace

Delicate and beautiful material, made by machine or hand, is again at the peak of popularity. Wedding dresses of any length, style, completely made of lace or emphasizing only one part of the body (arms, chest, waist, legs) attract special attention. The image of the bride becomes romantic, feminine and innocent, airy and light, truly luxurious.

The colors of lace are varied, but white and cream are more in demand for a wedding dress.

Crepe

Crepe can be natural or artificial, light or heavy. Any style of a wedding dress can be sewn from it, since it belongs to non-crease fabrics. A crepe with a smooth surface decorated with lace looks better.

Crepe de Chine wedding dress

Brocade

Luxurious and regal fabric in gold or silver shades is the best fit for winter wedding dresses. Brocade is quite dense and heavy, contains silk threads.

Taffeta

Smart and solemn, taffeta is much lighter than satin. Its non-wrinkling surface, also shiny and a little harsh, is best suited for outfits with ruffles. Differs in cotton or silk taffeta rustling when moving.

It can be used to sew a dress for a wedding of any season. Taffeta and brocade are great for ballroom lush corset wedding dresses, A-line models, as these fabrics are wintery, dense and heavy. The taffeta skirt will keep its shape. It's all about the processing of synthetic fabric.

Decorate a wedding dress with lace, beads and bugles, tulle or silk netting.

Lining fabric

For lining, a plain fabric is mainly used, for example, satin, twill, chintz, silk, cotton fabrics.

The choice of lining depends on the season (hot or cold) as the resistance to external influences differs... For example, viscose rayon and rayon acetate fiber fabrics are highly hygroscopic. It is great for summer outfits, which is not the case with polyesters. You should also take into account some of the nuances of each fabric. So, sweat marks can remain on acetate and silk lining.

Choose a lining fabric that is thinner than the main one and with a smooth surface. It will easily slide in contact with other fabrics, while fabrics with a relief texture, on the contrary, will stick.

Features of working with fabrics

Transparent

  1. There should be as few seams, darts and stitches as possible.
  2. Press lightly on transparent fabrics.
  3. For less slipping of the fabric before cutting, the table should be covered with a light blanket. Sharp scissors should be used.
  4. Chiffon, georgette and crepe must be cut in one layer. The pattern is made complete. It sticks to the fabric and it is advisable to remove it only after stitching with the fabric after cutting.
  5. The threads for sewing are thin.

Lace

  • The number of seams should be as small as possible. But for a tight-fitting dress model, you can use stitching seams if the lace fabric is dense and with a large convex pattern.
  • Cutting patterns must be complete.
  • The details on the pattern are positioned in such a way as to make the most of the motifs of the lace pattern. The rapport elements are placed symmetrically on the back and front. At the seams, they must match.
  • Individual lace elements or a strip of curly edge can be cut (cut off) and used as appliqués.
  • Before cutting the lace fabric, it is necessary to make an exact fit of the dress to the figure. First, the details from the lining are grinded and fitted, and after that possible changes are transferred to the lace fabric. If no lining is expected, make a template from a cheap fabric. You can use the tattoo method. See the video for an example.

Please note the following:

  • Details are grinded with a narrow seam. Lace with embroidery - patch with a closed cut.
  • When ironing the seams, a thick soft blanket is placed under the fabric, and an iron is placed on top.
Stitching lace details

And finally, an interesting video about the basic rules for cutting various types of fabric.

1 comment

Lace wedding dresses are my favorite! I also like organza dresses, they are airy and at the same time mysteriously translucent.

Fashion

the beauty

House