Suede: description, types, use and care

Suede is one of the most popular materials and is widely used in light industry and furniture production. Due to their high performance and attractive appearance, suede products do not lose their popularity over the years.

Since ancient times, the dressing of the skins of domestic and wild animals has been considered one of the main crafts of the peoples of the North. Since the Middle Ages, craftsmen impregnated deer skins with special compounds and animal fats, after which they sewed clothes and shoes from them. The technology of processing skins in a slightly modified form has survived to this day, and the material obtained as a result of dressing is called suede. Today, the impregnation of skins is carried out on modern equipment using fish, seal and bone oils, as well as vegetable and hoof oils. As a result of processing, the leather acquires a fine and soft texture and becomes very strong and elastic. The material has a pleasant-to-touch surface, fleecy on both sides, and is famous for its velvety and noble appearance.

Considering the natural origin of the raw materials, things made from natural suede are quite expensive. Therefore, thanks to modern technology, mankind has learned to produce a material that perfectly imitates natural suede. Artificial canvases are visually practically indistinguishable from the prototype and are distinguished by high wear resistance, resistance to stretching and abrasion, soft and pleasant to the touch surface and are much cheaper than natural material.

Today there are two types of suede.

For the manufacture of suede, the skins of chamois, goats, antelopes and sheep are used, and the fat of a seal or whale with the addition of vegetable, hoofed or linseed oil is used as an impregnating composition. After applying solutions to the surface, fats and oils react with the fibers of the hide, oxidize and promote suede. To speed up the process of the appearance of hairiness, the raw materials are pre-soaked in a formaldehyde solution, and after fat treatment they are placed in special machines called impact mills. In them, the material is subjected to continuous mechanical stress for 3-5 hours, after which it is settled in piles and warmed up. The process is repeated until the canvases acquire a yellow-brown hue.

Further, the material is thoroughly washed using a special solution, and then placed in a dryer. This is done in order to degrease the finished suede before sending it for painting. Newly made natural suede is distinguished by a non-uniform light brown color with the presence of light and dark spots, and therefore undergoes mandatory dyeing. At the end of the full processing cycle, suede ceases to pass water and acquires high moisture-repellent properties.

The advantages of natural suede include high strength, presentable appearance, excellent abrasion resistance and long service life of suede products. In addition, the material does not accumulate static electricity and does not allow water to pass through. Among the minuses, they note the too high cost and the moral and ethical aspect, due to modern trends in the use of nature-saving technologies and the refusal to use animal resources to meet human needs.

Artificial suede is made in two ways. The first consists in applying a polymer coating to the knitted base, followed by laser grinding, due to which the pile is formed. Cotton, wool and synthetic materials are used as a fabric base. The most optimal ratio of artificial and natural fibers in the fabric is considered to be 25% cotton and 75% polyester.

To connect the fleecy part with the fabric backing, use a special PVA glue or use a self-adhesive polymer. In some cases, for the strength of adhesion, the lamination technology is used, after which it becomes impossible to separate the fleecy coating from the base. After the structure of the suede is formed, the material is subjected to Teflon treatment, as a result of which the fabric acquires high dirt-repellent and moisture-proof properties. If, as an experiment, you pour a little water on the fabric, then it will collect in large drops and, without being absorbed, will roll off the surface of the material.

The second manufacturing method consists in fluffing microfiber to obtain a soft and even fleecy surface. The process of forming the pile is carried out on a special brushing equipment using the technique of splitting microfiber threads to form small fibers. Such suede is called woven and differs from the previous one in higher strength and resistance to deformation and stretching.

The advantages of artificial suede, which is sometimes called eco-suede, include high strength, durability, uniformity of texture and color, ease of maintenance and the ability to ventilate. In addition, the material is pleasant to the touch and is not prone to creases, cracks and abrasions. Among the disadvantages are the special soiling of white and gray products, the risk of damage to the fabric by the claws of pets and the low resistance to washing of non-woven suede. For glued fabric-backed items, dry cleaning or processing with ammonia is recommended.

Before describing the differences between suede and textile fabrics and knitwear, you need to figure out what is the difference between artificial and natural materials. The main distinguishing feature of artificial suede is the absence of lint on the second side, which, upon closer examination, makes it easy to distinguish it from natural. In addition, on the cut of natural suede, a layer of leather will be clearly visible, while in artificial suede, the fabric base is clearly visible. The smell of materials is also different, and if a natural canvas has a persistent smell of leather, then artificial fabrics do not have it. You can also distinguish fabrics by their texture. So, natural suede has a special softness and some color irregularity even after painting, and artificial canvases are ideally homogeneous and more rough to the touch.

If you cannot inspect the reverse side of the material and there are doubts about its naturalness, then it is recommended to hold the product in your hands for a while: the artificial suede will not change its temperature and will remain cool, while the natural one will quickly heat up. In addition, if you run your finger along the pile of natural material, the villi will change their position and the trace will become darker, while on the artificial canvas everything will remain unchanged. Another difference between natural and artificial material is the fact that when sewing clothes and shoes from natural suede, the edges of the fabric are not processed, while artificial fabrics need overlocking. Materials can also be distinguished by their reaction to water. Natural suede instantly absorbs moisture and darkens, while water rolls off the artificial material without leaving a wet trace.

The main difference between suede and other types of synthetic and natural fabrics is its versatility. The material is equally suitable for sewing clothes and shoes, which significantly expands the scope of its application and allows you to complement the ensembles with leather goods and spectacular accessories. Natural suede is often confused with nubuck. The main difference between these materials is the raw material for their production. For nubuck, the skin of larger animals such as cows, elk and deer is used, and for suede, sanding technology using abrasive materials is used.

This process is called chrome processing or tanning. In addition, the suede pile is much thicker and taller than nubuck and has a softer texture. Nubuck is often oiled to increase the water-resistant properties of the fabric, which in turn makes the material a little rough and rough. The functional characteristics of nubuck are significantly lower than those of suede. So, shoes made of nubuck quickly get wet and dirty. And if suede shoes can be wetted when cleaning, then only dry cleaning is allowed for nubuck.

The scope of application of natural and artificial suede is wide enough. The material is actively used for sewing clothes and shoes, furniture upholstery, as well as for the manufacture of gloves, bags and jewelry.

Suede is used for sewing sheepskin coats, jackets, jackets, skirts and coats. For sewing outerwear, the ideal option is a suede jacket with a cotton or knitted base. Often, to improve the decorative qualities of the fabric, the pile is given a certain direction. Suede clothing fits nicely to the body, fits well on the figure and looks very dignified. When buying a suede item, it is better to choose products of light colors. This is due to the fact that on blue or black clothes, small villi, hairs and threads will be much more noticeable than on a beige, sand or pink model.

When sewing on your own, it is better to choose an artificial fabric with a knitted base. Such suede, unlike material with a cotton base, is easier to sew and drape, making it well suited for sewing blouses and skirts. But for the manufacture of suits and jackets, on the contrary, it is better to purchase just the cotton version. In addition, it must be borne in mind that when outlining parts from dense suede, holes from needles and pins remain on the material, and therefore sewing needles should be chosen as thin and sharp as possible.

Suede shoes have not gone out of fashion for many years. Due to its versatility and presentable appearance, shoes made of this material are perfectly combined with almost any wardrobe. In suede boots or boots, the feet always remain dry and do not freeze. The fabric successfully combines the ability to ventilate and repel moisture, which is why it is often used for sewing sports shoes. For the production of such models, the skin of large animals is used, which has increased strength and durability.

Suede leather goods are always at the peak of popularity. The material is ideal for sewing bags, gloves, straps and wallets, in addition to which you can always purchase an elegant piece of jewelry in the form of a bracelet or pendant.

For upholstering sofas and armchairs in the furniture industry, artificial suede made from microfiber is often used. This is due to the high performance of the material, such as abrasion resistance, ability to retain the original color and ease of cleaning. In addition, the material is not prone to rolling and is available in a wide range of colors.

Thin perforated suede is widely used as a wiping and polishing material and is used to care for the surface of optical lenses, LCD monitors and plasma televisions. Suede rags have a long service life and do not lose their working qualities for a long time. In addition, the fabric perfectly absorbs water, does not leave behind whitish streaks and dries quickly. This allows the material to be used for washing car windows, headlights, interior and bodywork.

Due to the ability of the material to breathe, suede has found wide application in the manufacture of orthopedic insoles and specialized shoes. For these purposes, a special type of technical suede is used, the working qualities of which are clearly spelled out in the standards of GOST 3717-84. Sheep, goat and deer skins are usually used as raw materials, which are distinguished by a short nap and a dark brown non-marking color.

Pork split is often used in the manufacture of natural suede. Unlike cattle skins, it produces low-quality suede, which is used for sewing work gloves, aprons, casings for various equipment and technical inventory.

Any suede is quite demanding to care for, so when buying products from it, you need to take into account some points. So, suede clothes made of microfiber and natural linen can be easily washed and even soaked for a short time in warm soapy water, but the water temperature should not exceed 40 degrees. After washing, it is recommended to lightly soak the product with an absorbent cloth and hang it on a hanger. It is strictly forbidden to squeeze out suede items. During the drying process, it is necessary to blot the fabric with a towel from time to time, otherwise numerous smudges may appear on the surface, which will be difficult to eliminate without repeated washing. You don't need to iron your stretch suede skirt or coat. The material is not prone to creases and bruises and perfectly restores its original shape.

In addition to washing, it is necessary to carry out regular dry cleaning of things. To do this, you can use a rubber brush, moving it in one direction of the pile. Freshly planted dirty spots should never be wiped off. In such cases, you need to wait until the stain is completely dry, then shake off the dried dirt with an elastic brush and clean it with a silicone sponge. To remove greasy food stains, sprinkle the contaminated area with talcum powder and leave for three hours. Then gently shake off the powder with a brush and comb the product with a rubber brush. In the absence of talc, you can use starch diluted with ammonia to the consistency of gruel. In case of incomplete removal of the stain, mix water with ammonia in a ratio of 4: 1 and blot the stain.

Pile that has caked after long storage must be held over steam and combed with a hard toothbrush. If the stains are fresh enough and have not yet had time to eat into the material, then you can try to remove them with a cotton swab dipped in soapy water. To prepare a solution, instead of soap, it is better to use shampoo, taken at the rate of 20 g per liter of water. After treating the stain with such a composition, it is necessary to collect the foam and quickly blot the area to be cleaned with a dry towel. Such cleaning should be carried out very quickly so that the material does not have time to get wet.

It is recommended to dry suede products away from heating devices and direct sunlight. Brown things are cleaned well with coffee grounds, and light and white ones - with skim milk and soda, diluted in a ratio of 0.5 tbsp. l. soda for half a glass of milk. Renewal of the color of clothing is carried out using spray paint for suede. The use of stain removers and acetone-containing compounds is strictly prohibited. Light dirt can be removed with a regular soft eraser.

When caring for shoes and bags, it is necessary to use a sponge soaked in soapy water, while preventing the product from getting too wet. After processing, the thing is dried. and then combed with a stiff brush. In winter, saline stains from reagents can be removed with 5% vinegar solution. To do this, moisten a soft cloth in the solution and try to gently wash off the stains, paying more attention to the borders of the stain. However, many troubles can be avoided by treating new suede shoes with fluorocarbon or silicone water and dirt-repellent impregnation.

Furniture maintenance consists of regular washing of removable covers. As a rule, microfiber is used for their manufacture, so they are washed well. If the upholstery is not removed, then the cleaning of stains and other contaminants is done in any of the ways described above. The only prerequisite for cleaning non-removable upholstery is as little moisture as possible, which is due to the risk of moisture penetration inside and the associated difficulties. When buying furniture with suede upholstery, it should be borne in mind that the height and density of the pile has a strong influence on the abrasion resistance and the difficulty of care. So, products with a short nap have higher performance characteristics and are most preferable as furniture upholstery for regular use. If the suede sofa is already many years old and it has begun to get greasy, then a special brush, which has a combined design with the presence of metal and rubber elements, or an ordinary eraser, will help to correct the situation. As for everyday care, such furniture should be regularly vacuumed, cleaned with dry salt and periodically brushed with a soft brush.

For information on how to properly care for suede, see the next video.