Jacquard: description, types, advantages and disadvantages

For about two hundred years now, it is difficult to imagine a full-fledged choice of curtains or table textiles without jacquard fabric, but in fact, today the production of the same curtains and tablecloths is possible using a different technology. However, jacquard never gave way to them completely - it has its own advantages and disadvantages, which force us to consider such material more closely.

Let's start with a little history. In 1804, the French inventor Joseph Marie Jacquard proposed a new loom, which involved a more intricate weaving of individual threads, which made it possible to produce a very beautiful and at the same time quite durable fabric. In France, where the demand for everything exquisite and beautiful is very high, this solution was appreciated very quickly, and from there it spread over time to the whole world. Grateful descendants named this fabric jacquard - in honor of its inventor.

However, these days it will not be entirely correct to believe that jacquard fabric is any one specific material. The fact is that the Frenchman proposed only a method of weaving the threads, but not a single description of the technology contains an exact indication of what they should be made of. Accordingly, in the modern world, both natural and synthetic threads are used for jacquard weaving, and the output is different fabrics, each of which has its pros and cons.

If we talk about some common features for all jacquard fabrics, then, in addition to weaving, which only specialists understand, a characteristic feature is the weaving pattern, which is not applied with dyes, but is formed due to a special interweaving of individual threads. Unfortunately, today some enterprising sellers also reward other fabrics with the same name, on which designs are applied by printing or stuffing, which, of course, has nothing to do with the original technology. Real jacquard is somewhat reminiscent of a tapestry, but differs from it in a number of features., for example, thinner and cheaper threads, as well as their lightness.

Even the original technology of jacquard weave does not put forward the slightest restrictions on the thread material, therefore today such fabrics are made from almost any existing thread. This situation creates a huge variety in the sewing materials market, and although a good choice helps to achieve perfect results in sewing certain textiles, sometimes this abundance is even a little confusing. To understand, let's try to briefly go through the basic classification of jacquard fabrics.

Perhaps the main differences between the finished product are what the individual threads are made of in the weave. As a rule, the finished fabric largely adopts the main features of the material from which it is made.

It makes no sense to consider absolutely all the options, therefore we will highlight only the most popular and frequently encountered ones.

• Jacquard organza, like the usual one, is made from threads of different materials - most often polyester or rayon threads, often in combination with silk. With an abundance of synthetic material, it is possible to achieve a particularly accurate transfer of the conceived pattern, in addition, it is quite easy to weave metal threads into the structure of such a fabric. You can see this kind of matter not only in the decoration of windows, but also in many modern wedding dresses; it is also often featured in various theatrical clothes that imitate the exquisite decorations of antiquity.

• Stretch or stretch jacquard enjoys great success in knitwear production, because it has the ability to stretch and then return to its former shape. To achieve the notorious stretching effect, modern stretching materials are used as the main components, including lycra, elastane and even ultra-modern velsoft. However, for a better appearance and increased tenderness of matter, classic solutions like cotton or even poplin can be added to it. Today this material is very common, it surrounds you, even if you have never thought about it, because it is from it that everyday and outerwear is often sewn.

• Cotton jacquard Is another popular material that is based on natural raw materials and has additional strength and durability. Although modern synthetics in many ways push such solutions into the background, satin jacquard can still be found in everyday clothes, and even in mattress covers.

• Silk jacquard, unlike many other fabrics, where silk is included in small quantities, it assumes a significant proportion of silk itself, although it is not so important whether we are talking about a natural material or about its synthetic substitutes. Silk jacquard fabrics, in turn, can be divided into a large number of individual varieties, among which satin jacquard and satin jacquard are considered to be especially popular. The scope of such fabrics is usually called lace underwear and evening dresses, curtains, bedding, and even casual wear.

Since jacquard is not even an exact pattern of weaving, but only a mechanism for how several types of weaves can be combined in one fabric, today jacquard fabrics can use different such types, which gives another reason for their classification. The most primitive version of jacquard weaving is the so-called simple, when there is only one system of warp threads and one more - weft threads. Thanks to this technique, relatively cheap jacquard fabrics such as crepe de Chine, satin or marshmallows appear. Of these, table textiles are usually sewn (reusable napkins and tablecloths).

If there are several systems of warp and weft threads, then jacquard weaving is called complex, and, in turn, is divided into several groups:

• double-sided jacquard is intensively used for sewing suits;
• two-layer or double jacquard is most appropriate for the production of tapestries;
• pile varieties of jacquard fabric have found their application as upholstery for upholstered furniture.

A feature of jacquard fabrics is their complex, relief structure, thanks to which they are beautiful in their own way, even without any coloring. That is why many manufacturers produce white jacquard, which is bleached specifically in order to give it a special solemnity and emphasize the delicate work of the weavers. Of the monochromatic varieties of such matter, the black variety also enjoys a certain success, but in general, both of them are not among the most in demand - they are used mainly to create expensive designer suits.

Multi-colored jacquard is another matter, because in combination with a relief pattern, a variety of colors and shades can create a truly bright picture. At the same time, here, too, there is a certain space for the classification of materials, because some types of jacquard fabric are made from multi-colored, pre-dyed threads, while in another case, a single-color piece of ready-made fabric is then dyed.

Since jacquard fabrics are made from completely different raw materials, in each case the pros and cons can be special, therefore you always need to make a certain discount on what a particular cut is made of. However, the specificity of the weave also leaves a special imprint on the matter. On average, the following positive properties of jacquard weaving can be noted:

• the highest density of such fabric reaches 250 g / m2, which significantly increases the strength of woven products;
• if we compare jacquard weaving with other fabrics of similar strength, then usually it turns out to be much lighter in weight, which significantly expands the potential scope of application;
• the very specificity of weaving significantly prolongs the life of the finished material, since here the weave is very tight and dense, and the twisting of individual threads prevents the loops from unraveling;
• things made of jacquard fabric are very resistant to external mechanical influences, as well as to temperature extremes, therefore, their useful life in some cases can significantly exceed a decade;

• jacquard fabric always retains the original properties of the material from which the threads are made, therefore, if necessary, you can find completely hypoallergenic options;
• fabrics made thanks to jacquard weave do not wrinkle or form folds, they almost never require ironing;
• in most cases, the structure of the weave itself simplifies the care of the fabric - it simply does not require any special care, since it does not even collect dust on itself, and this is an ideal option not only for curtains, but also for any other textile products;
• finally, jacquard is very beautiful, and it is also pleasant to the touch, therefore it enjoys well-deserved popularity among consumers.

If jacquard fabrics had many shortcomings, they would have already gone out of fashion by this time or have lost much in popularity, however, in fact, we are almost witnessing the flourishing of this type of weaving. However, this does not mean that this technology does not have certain weak points.

First of all, in a real fabric, produced by jacquard weaving from raw materials of natural origin, the main disadvantage is the rather high cost... While the performance properties of such a fabric do not give rise to any doubt that the price is reasonable, for some consumers it seems more acceptable to buy something cheaper, even if the purchase turns out to be less durable. And already in the beauty traditional for classical technology, jacquard today has many competitors who are ready to offer a result comparable in quality for much less money.

Another, typically modern problem of industrial production is that manufacturers, in pursuit of cheaper products, often abandon some original prerequisites, which is why modern counterparts are much cheaper than the classics, but at the same time do not have its quality. Today, any kind of fiber can be present in the composition of jacquard fabric., and if you purchased it for modest money and have never heard of the manufacturer before (or, worse, did not find any information about it), it is possible that the fabric will also be harmful to human health. In this regard, some of the advantages described above may be canceled out by the manufacturer's desire to attract a buyer at an extremely low price.

Finally, we will repeat what has already been said above: not everything that is called jacquard is in fact. Many manufacturers, taking advantage of the inexperience of consumers, call this any colorful fabric, but by the weave it does not always at least imitate the original technology. In principle, one should not expect any of the advantages described above from such products, since it is only the appearance, but not the essence, that has in common with a real jacquard fabric.

The use of various modern synthetic yarns in jacquard weave has made it possible to significantly expand the potentially useful qualities of fabrics, opening up such uses for them that, perhaps, Jacquard himself could not have thought of. It is safe to say that today such fabrics are used almost everywhere. Despite the fact that even casual clothes can be sewn from such fabrics, the main field of application is upholstery and curtain fabrics. Why curtains and upholstery for a sofa and other upholstered furniture are sewn from this fabric is easy to understand - just look at the list of advantages of such a fabric.

Three points should be especially highlighted:

• durability allows you to significantly extend the life of the product, without forcing you to regularly change the design of the room;
• the absence of the need for regular care greatly simplifies the daily life of the owners;
• aesthetically pleasing appearance allows you to achieve an atmosphere of comfort or even just to interest the consumer.

In all other branches of the textile industry, jacquard weaving is more of an auxiliary value. Such fabrics are often used to make clothes that should imitate classic lace - these are both everyday clothes and underwear, and even table textiles. However, in these areas, jacquard weaving cannot be called as fundamental as in the upholstery of furniture or the production of curtains, since in these two cases its use is massive.

It is not always advisable to compare jacquard with knitwear. In terms of raw materials, it can be the same material, however, it has a characteristic weave. If we talk about the main "competitors" of jacquard fabrics, then in the field of furniture upholstery, eco-leather and flock should be distinguished, in terms of sewing curtains - velor, and in the production of bed linen - polycotton.

Eco-leather for upholstery is a fundamentally different solution, nothing like jacquard, except for most of the advantages. It is not even a fabric, being an artificial polymer material, plus of which is that it does not allow water to pass through, and therefore does not absorb pollution. At the same time, any drawings are never applied to it, it is always monochromatic, and although this has its own aesthetics, the same criterion can be its disadvantage in comparison with jacquard.

Flock, like jacquard fabrics, is even too different in quality. In ideal performance, they are practically "brothers", only the flock is also distinguished by the fact that it does not absorb water, which in the first minutes can be simply wiped off with a rag. In addition, it is cheaper than traditional jacquard, but this is playing a cruel joke with the consumer, because budget options do not have many advantages, in particular, they wipe off much faster, tear more easily, wrinkle.

The advantage of polycotton over jacquard in terms of sewing is a lower cost, as well as a more delicate texture to the touch, which is important for a comfortable sleep. However, then this material acquires a lot of disadvantages, which in the original are unusual for jacquard fabrics - first of all, it quickly rolls down, is easily electrified, and also poorly permeates air, and is even capable of causing irritation on the skin because of this.

Although the fabric based on jacquard weave almost does not require special maintenance, at least from time to time it is still needed. In each case, its exact parameters depend on the raw materials used in the production, but in general, with the same washing in a machine, a few simple rules should be followed. Jacquard fabric is always washed, being turned inside out, it is advisable to carry out the procedure in water with a temperature of no higher than 30 degrees, since it is not always possible to accurately determine the composition of the matter.

Contrary to all the vaunted wear resistance, jacquard also does not like aggressive bleaches., therefore, you need to choose the mildest agent and in no case deviate from the instructions for its use. The optimal washing mode is “delicate fabrics”, the number of revolutions should be small, and it is not recommended to overload the machine, otherwise folds and creases on this fabric may still appear. To counteract the same problem, you need to remove the washed items immediately after the end of the program.

It is not recommended to carefully twist the jacquard after washing. - it is better to squeeze it out a little with your hands and let it dry on its own, even if it takes longer. Woven things need to be straightened right there, avoiding fixing the formed folds, but they should be dried only indoors - the hit of bright sunlight on wet fabric can give an unpredictable result.

Since you are unlikely to remove the upholstery from the furniture for washing, in case of any contamination, there will be only one cleaning option - try to wipe it off with a damp sponge. Finally, if you also decide to iron the jacquard fabric, please note that this can only be done from the wrong side.This is the only way you can ensure that you do not spoil the design from the outside by burning the intricate weaving.

In most cases, Internet users leave positive comments about jacquard weave fabrics. They note that such fabric really makes beautiful and durable curtains, pleasant to the touch and to the look of upholstery for upholstered furniture, as well as good clothes for everyday wear. In order not to spoil the delicate work, during the washing process, you have to observe some precautions, but the bulk of people perceive them as a necessity, realizing that such is the price of using truly beautiful things.

True, there are also opposite opinions in which jacquard weave is criticized. It should be noted that most of these commentators purchased these things for very little money, and were not even interested in where such a product was produced. In many cases, the fabric is criticized for the fact that in the process of washing, which is nevertheless necessary for everyday clothes or underwear, it is quite easy to spoil the thing, but nothing can be done about it - the conditions must be read carefully and followed carefully, otherwise all durability matter will come to naught.

For information on how to choose a jacquard fabric for a sofa upholstery, see the next video.