Enzyme peeling: features and rules of application
Not every woman can boast of perfect skin. The causes of problems can be improper diet, polluted air, hard water, lack of vitamins, improper selection of cosmetics, etc. Enzyme peeling can correct the situation. It helps to cope with many problems, transforms the skin, making it fresher and more beautiful. Let's consider the features of this procedure and the rules for its application.
What it is?
Enzymatic peels, also called enzymatic peels, are suitable for all skin types. Enzymes are enzymes that accelerate the breakdown of the stratum corneum. Protein molecules (enzymes) do not act aggressively on the skin. Thanks to their delicate action, this procedure is prescribed even to girls with rosacea (vascular mesh on the face).
Peeling not only helps to get rid of dead skin cells, but also perfectly "polishes" it, helps to eliminate age spots and acne. Compared to acid peels, enzyme peels are considered gentle.
All processes in the human body proceed under the action of enzymes. They are also found in the cells of the dermis and epidermis. Enzymes act as catalysts (speed up the reaction) and as inhibitors (slow down the reaction). In total, scientists have identified 5000 types of enzymes, but they are all divided into 6 classes. Each class regulates the process of one type of reaction, for example, hydrolases regulate the decomposition of substances with water (hydrolysis), and lyases are responsible for the decomposition of substances in the absence of water. The composition of the products recommended by cosmetologists most often include hydrolases.
However, not all hydrolases are used in cosmetology. For the healing and transformation of the skin, protease, carbohydrase and lipase are usually used. Protease promotes protein breakdown when exposed to water. Carbohydrases are also excellent at this task, but only with carbohydrates. Lipases decompose fats by hydrolysis.
Types of peeling enzymes
All enzymes are specific. Each enzyme reacts differently to the same compound (or does not react at all). Enzymes, as mentioned earlier, are found in almost every living organism. They regulate vital processes by influencing the rate of the reaction. Plant, animal and bacterial enzymes are isolated. But in cosmetology, enzymes are often used that are similar to the protease of human skin.
Typically, plant enzymes are obtained from fruits such as kiwi, lemon, coconut. Also, the necessary substances are contained in berries.
Let's consider what plant enzymes are used for peels.
- Papain is an enzyme derived from the juice and pulp of papaya. Its concentration in preparations for enzyme peeling is higher than the concentration of other enzymes. This element helps to exfoliate dead skin cells, while it perfectly nourishes the dermis.
- Bromelain is a complex molecule. This substance is found in pineapple. This enzyme helps to get rid of fine wrinkles on the face, removes traces of pigmentation.
- Ficin is a component found in the cells of the foliage of the fig tree. It speeds up the processes by which collagen is produced. Collagen is present in the cells of our body, but with age, it begins to be produced in a smaller volume, which is why the skin begins to sag. Collagen adds elasticity to the tissues.
- Actinidin is an enzyme in the kiwi fruit. It makes the walls of blood vessels denser and stronger, therefore it is good for combating rosacea. The substance unclogs dirty pores and reduces them.
- Arbutin, a substance that is part of lingonberry and mulberry, has a lightening effect, with the help of it you can get rid of age spots.
Animal enzymes are also used in the production of various enzyme peels.
- Muramidase is an enzyme that is derived from the protein of a chicken egg. It has anti-inflammatory and bactericidal properties. The preparations containing this enzyme disinfect the skin and fight against the appearance of acne.
- Pepsin is an important component of enzyme peels. It is excreted from the stomach lining of horses, cows, pigs and sheep.
Trypsin is an enzyme obtained from the pancreas of calves. Has healing and disinfecting effects.
Bacterial enzymes are produced by fermentation of certain types of bacteria.
The enzymes obtained from fermented milk products are especially important, they soften the skin and nourish it.
- Herbase is an active enzyme that promotes the separation of the stratum corneum of the skin. Herbal preparations help to get rid of pigmentation.
- Subtilisin is a very important enzyme that stimulates regeneration processes.
All of these enzymes are actively used in the manufacture of enzyme peels. But not all enzymes can work together; everyone needs certain conditions. Therefore, all of these elements are never applied together.
Indications
Despite the mild action of the enzyme peeling, it can relieve the skin of the face and body from many problems.
A big plus of this procedure is that it suits oily, normal and dry skin.
Enzyme peeling can be called a universal remedy.
It is often recommended by specialists for such skin imperfections:
- dark spots;
- acne and pimples, as well as marks from them;
- shallow wrinkles on the body;
- clogged pores;
- unnatural gray skin color;
- scars, post-acne;
- increased skin oiliness.
Also, this type of peeling is carried out by cosmetologists before subsequent procedures to cleanse and prepare the pores.
Contraindications
There are few contraindications for the remedy, but still they are, which means that you need to familiarize yourself with them.
There are a number of reasons why you should stop using enzyme peels:
- individual intolerance to any substance that is part of the composition;
- aggravated skin diseases (itching, bruising, cracks);
- diabetes;
- diseases that reduce immunity;
- wounds on the skin;
- viral disease - herpes.
Advantages and disadvantages
Let's consider the main advantages and disadvantages of this type of peeling for a complete assessment of the procedure.
There are quite a few advantages.
- The substances that make up the drug are less aggressive than acids. But the result from the use of enzyme and acid peels is the same.
- Cosmetologists are allowed to use such a tool all year round. Enzyme peels can be done even in summer.
- The procedure helps to get rid of most of the defects. At the same time, there are no scrubbing particles in the composition of the cosmetic product. This means that people with rosacea can safely use this method of cleansing.
- After a home or salon enzymatic peeling procedure, the skin will be renewed, and beneficial substances will enter it faster. The effectiveness of using masks, lotions and creams after peeling increases.
Changes are visible after the first procedure. Of course, to get rid of post-acne and other noticeable problems, you will need a set of procedures. But the skin will be transformed after the first application of the product. It will become silky, smoother, and most importantly, clogged pores will open, cells will begin to breathe.
- No rehabilitation period is required. After peeling, there is no flaking or redness, so there is no need to sit at home, waiting for the skin to "come off" from the procedure.
- You can cleanse your face with this method not only in the salon with a beautician, but also at home.
- Enzymes slow down hair growth. This is undoubtedly a big plus for girls.
- Peeling is great for cleansing your face and body.
- During pregnancy, the use of the drug is allowed, but only after consulting a doctor and a beautician.
There is only one drawback - such drugs will not get rid of deep wrinkles and scars.
Procedure steps
Before the first procedure, you need to make a test to make sure that the drug will not cause you an allergic reaction. To do this, apply a small amount of the product to the inside of your wrist. The peeling can be washed off after 10 minutes. If there was no burning sensation and allergies (redness), then the product can be used to cleanse the face.
Peeling is a serious procedure, so it is important to follow all preparation rules. There are not many of them.
- Before enzyme peeling, do not use products that contain acids or retinol. This is due to the fact that in addition to enzymes, many enzyme peels also contain these components. Too much of these substances can damage the skin. It will become dry, begin to crack, and inflammation may appear in the corners of the lips. Dermatitis is possible.
- Do not epilate the day before the enzymatic peeling procedure. But you can, on the contrary, carry out peeling before epilation. Usually, cosmetologists advise scrubbing the desired area before removing hairs, but the scrub can be replaced with an enzyme peeling. It will not only cleanse the skin, but also help avoid ingrown hairs.
- Enzyme peeling should not be performed 5 days before the laser resurfacing or dermabrasion procedure. In the process of cosmetic resurfacing, the upper dead layer of the epithelium is removed with a special laser. Dermabrasion scrapes off a layer of skin. This procedure is designed to remove post-acne, scars, age spots. Both procedures severely injure the skin. Peeling gently removes the stratum corneum, but the sensitivity of the skin increases. Therefore, when carrying out laser resurfacing or dermabrasion after enzymatic peeling, there is a possibility of severe damage to the dermis and epidermis.
Let's move on to the procedure itself.
First, let's look at how the procedure is carried out by specialists in the salon.
- The beautician cleans the skin of make-up and impurities with special products. It is recommended not to dye your eyes and eyebrows before visiting the salon, because a film will be applied to your face. Otherwise, your eye makeup may deteriorate. There is also a high probability of getting decorative cosmetics on the mucous membrane of the eye, from which a burning sensation will appear.
- Peeling is applied. Usually they start from the forehead, then the cheeks, chin, nose. Last but not least, the neck and décolleté are treated with an enzyme peel. Each specialist uses different professional cosmetics, so the beautician may have a ready-made enzymatic peeling in a tube or in the form of a powder, which must be diluted before use. In addition, some cosmetologists add other preparations or solutions to the peeling that improve the effect. For example, an antioxidant concentrate is often used as an additive. It slows down the breakdown of collagen and elastin. The skin remains firm and the aging process of the tissues slows down.
- After applying the product, the face is covered with a film. Typically, the waiting time is 10-30 minutes, depending on the composition of the peel. This method of cleansing the skin is gentle, so clients do not experience tingling or other unpleasant sensations.
- The product is washed off with warm or slightly cool water. Sometimes it is necessary to use an alkaline neutralizer to remove acid residues from the skin that may be part of the product.
- After the peeling, the beautician can do a few more procedures. The treatment is tailored to the age and skin type of the client.
- After any type of peeling, it is imperative to moisturize the skin. For this, masks, various serums are used.
- At the end of the procedure, the master applies a cream with SPF, which will protect the delicate renewed skin from ultraviolet radiation.
You can do an enzyme peel yourself at home. The algorithm of actions remains the same as in the salon. Apply the cream to dry, clean skin of the face, neck and décolleté. Perform an express massage for 3-5 minutes, cover the skin with a film and a towel for 10 minutes to activate the enzyme. Rinse off any leftover product.
There is also a second way. It is suitable for those who like to relax during water procedures. Lying in the bath, apply the product to your face, massage a little. There is no need to use a film and a towel, the enzymes will become active from the warm temperature of the water. Rinse off the cream after 10-15 minutes. After home exfoliation (especially if you have dry, dehydrated skin), you can apply a moisturizing mask or use a nourishing cream.
The effectiveness of professional peels and home treatments varies. Specialists add various oils and concentrates, while taking into account the type and characteristics of the patient's skin. After the procedure, the cosmetologist uses special means to restore the moisture balance of the skin. The procedure has a cumulative effect, so the salon must be visited 5-10 times at intervals of 7-10 days.
At home, it is recommended to use the product 1-2 times a week for oily skin. For dry and normal skin, it is usually sufficient to carry out 1 procedure every 7 days.
Follow-up care
Post-peeling care necessarily includes moisturizing the skin and protecting it from external factors. For dry skin after peeling, it is recommended to use oily creams so that the cells make up for the lack of nutrients and moisture. In summer, you should not use too dense products, they clog the pores and make it difficult for the cells to “breathe”. Milk or foam is perfect for cleansing this type of skin; such products will not damage the hydrolipid mantle. Take a closer look at the tonic. Many do not use it in their daily skin care, but in vain. The tonic prepares dry skin for subsequent procedures: applying a cream, mask or gel, and it also restores the acid-base balance.
Experts recommend moisturizing oily skin after peeling with a cream with a light texture. Anti-inflammatory and antiseptic lotions are suitable for daily care. You can treat your face not only in the morning and in the evening, but also in the middle of the day, so as not to clog the renewed tissues with dust.
Normal skin also needs hydration. A moisturizing and soothing cream is applied to it. Depending on the season, you can change your skin care cosmetics, using lighter creams in the summer and more oily creams in the winter.
For any type of skin after peeling, it is necessary to use sunscreens with an SPF of at least 15. Ultraviolet rays reduce local immunity, provoke rashes and pigmentation. In the first hours after the salon peeling, refrain from applying any cosmetics. For at least 4 days, do not scrub the skin with scrubs, this is not necessary, because the skin has already been cleared by enzymes. Scrubbing particles can damage the dermis.
Recommendations
Enzyme peeling can be a preparatory process for subsequent procedures. As already mentioned, experts often recommend using this product before shugaring and depilation, enzymatic peeling is an excellent substitute for scrubs. It does not cause irritation or redness, unlike scrubbers. The use of peeling will also relieve the problem of ingrown hairs, which begin to bother many girls after epilation.
Cosmetologists advise peeling before cleansing your face. Already at this stage, the pores begin to cleanse, and mechanical cleaning helps to achieve the maximum effect.
Experts prescribe enzyme peels before a program of intensive moisturizing and rejuvenation with ampoule concentrates or before electroporation (a procedure using an electric current, which results in skin rejuvenation). Of course, both procedures are best performed on the renewed skin of the face. In this case, it is important not to damage the cover, therefore, enzymatic peeling is used for such tasks.
Popular brands
Salicylic Enzyme Peeling StopProblem
The product from the StopProblem line contains salicylic acid, which has an antiseptic effect. The drug is allowed to be used both by adolescents with problem skin of the face and by women who want to avoid the appearance of acne.
Enzyme peeling works well with excess sebum, cleanses and tightens enlarged pores.
Reviews of this product are good, especially buyers are pleased with the price-quality ratio.
Klapp enzyme peeling
This tool is popular among cosmetologists, so it is often used for professional care in salons. But you can also cleanse your skin with this peeling at home. The tool can be ordered on the website or purchased from a beautician. Klapp is hard to find in regular beauty stores. Peeling removes dead cells, has an antibacterial effect, and increases the effectiveness of subsequent care. The tool has a high efficiency of action, the main disadvantage is the high price.
Enzyme peeling ARAVIA Papaya Enzyme Peel
This peel has a creamy texture and the color of the product is white. It removes impurities, helps to get rid of pigmentation, and is suitable for sensitive skin. The tool is quite economical to use, it lasts more than a year of regular use.
Judging by the reviews, any enzyme peeling option helps to get rid of fine wrinkles., pigmentation, enlarged pores, delicately cleansing the skin. The procedure does not require large financial costs. But it is worth considering that if you are trying to get rid of more serious problems, for example, from deep scars, scars, active rashes, then this type of peeling will not suit you.
How to do an enzyme peel at home, see the video below.