Glycolic peeling: features and subtleties of application

Nowadays, the cosmetic market is full of masks, lotions, all kinds of tonics and acid peels. The great popularity of care products is due to their ability to rejuvenate the skin, eliminate scars and reduce the severity of age spots.

Peeling with glycolic acids is one of the types of chemical cosmetic peeling. It is carried out using special glycolic acid, which is obtained from grapes, unripe beets and sugar cane. By the way, references to the use of the latter for anti-aging procedures date back to the times of Ancient Egypt.

Since then, science has made great strides forward, and in the 70s of the last century, scientists found a scientific basis for the effectiveness of fruit acids. It has been proven that they actively affect the keratinized upper layers of the dermis, reduce the bonds between dead cells and stimulate collagen production.

Glycolic acid concentrate was first tested on humans in 1996, when more than 40 people with a variety of cosmetic problems took part in the testing. Already after a month, 90% of the subjects showed a significant improvement in skin condition, a decrease in the stratum corneum, a decrease in the number of superficial wrinkles and an improvement in complexion. This is what led to the ubiquity of glycolic acid in the beauty industry.

The procedure has the most beneficial effect on the skin:

• Rejuvenates - due to the penetration of acid deep into the skin, an intensive production of collagen begins, as well as fibroblasts, which are responsible for the elasticity of tissues. The consequence of these processes is an increase in skin turgor, a smoothing of the relief, as well as a reduction in the depth and number of fine wrinkles.
• Cleans - glycolic acid, in comparison with other fruit components, has a rather low molecular weight, so it penetrates much deeper and effectively fights dead cells in various layers of the epidermis.
• Demonstrates a lifting effect, that is, it simply tightens the skin. The essence of this phenomenon is associated with the fact that when the acid contacts the intercellular space, the cells swell, the result is an increase in the elasticity of soft tissues, the evenness and tightening of the floating contour of the face.

• Eliminates Inflammation - Glycolic acid is widely used to effectively combat acne and ugly acne. The effect of the active ingredient significantly reduces inflammation and reduces the manifestation of foci of infection on the skin of the face.
• Moisturizes - after the procedure of chemical fruit peeling, the skin becomes more hydrated, the acid-base balance is normalized, the work of the sebaceous glands is enhanced, and all metabolic processes in the skin are optimized.

The benefits of peeling based on fruit acids are obvious:

• the patient practically does not experience pain during the procedure;
• wrinkles are smoothed out very quickly;
• the first results are visible after a few hours;
• the recovery period is rather short.

However, we must not forget that the ideal cosmetic procedure has not yet been created, and glycolic peeling, like many other cosmetic manipulations, is no exception.

The disadvantages of this cleaning include:

• the likelihood of complications (peeling, redness, puffiness);
• lack of result in some cases;
• high cost of salon procedures.

Fruit acid peels can be superficial. middle and deep. For each of them, a different concentration of glycolic preparations is used - from 5 to 70%.

Surface treatment allows you to get rid of the keratinized layer. The same method is optimal if it is necessary to prevent acne and acne. This procedure makes the skin softer, removes freckles and age spots, and also smoothes fine wrinkles.

Median peeling affects deeper layers, in some cases even penetrates into the tissues near the basement membrane. At the same time, fruit acid almost completely affects the epidermis, due to which the effect of smoothing wrinkles is achieved, scars and scars are eliminated, and skin creases are minimized.

Deep peeling is the most aggressive type of action, but at the same time the most effective. In this case, fruit acid (its concentration reaches 70%) reaches the reticular skin layer, due to which the processes of its active restoration are launched.A similar procedure is used to combat deep wrinkles and folds, reduce pigmentation and smoothen large scars. From a medical point of view, such peeling is comparable to a surgical intervention, which is performed with mandatory anesthesia (local or general).

The period of skin recovery after deep glycolic peeling is at least 20 days, and sometimes up to 1.5 months.

Cosmetologists advise turning to glycolic rejuvenation of the epidermis in the following situations:

• active aging of the skin;
• the appearance of fine wrinkles;
• the presence of scars and scars left after acne;
• dryness and severe flaking of the skin;
• the formation of stretch marks, which often occur after pregnancy, as well as due to serious weight loss;
• excessive greasiness of the skin;
• pigment-type neoplasms;
• laxity and reduced elasticity of the skin.

Glycolic peeling is a very serious procedure, regardless of the concentration of the solution used. Even a minimal violation of the technology of conducting, as well as improper skin care during the recovery period, quite often harm the skin and, instead of the expected effect, lead to additional problems.

Peeling, especially chemical peeling, has a number of contraindications, including:

• inflammatory processes in the treated area of ​​the skin;
• the presence of an allergy to the active component of the drug;
• herpes in the acute stage;
• fresh tan (usually reddish);
• the presence of warts in large numbers;
• purulent inflammation on the surface of the skin.

Peeling is not recommended for some diseases:

• oncology;
• diabetes;
• fever, high temperature;
• diseases of the cardiovascular system;
• asthma.

Do not peel with glycolic formulations for pregnant and lactating women, as well as for persons with individual intolerance to the formulation.

The glycolic peeling procedure includes two main stages - preparation and peeling itself. The sequence of actions and their time must be strictly observed; even a minimal excess or, conversely, a reduction in the duration of the exposure is not allowed.

Facial skin peeling with glycolic acid is carried out in a strict sequence of manipulations. Deviation from the rules of procedure is absolutely unacceptable.

Glycolic peeling must be preceded by preparation, which begins 10 days before the procedure and consists in the gradual introduction of fruit acid into the care products in a weak concentration - no more than 5%. In addition, you should use cosmetics, the pH of which is in the range of 3-5%, which will even out the acid-base balance of the skin, soften its upper layer and prepare it for further powerful effects of the chemical component.

For different skin types, the preparation scheme for glycolic peeling varies:

• if the skin is oily, then within one week, cosmetics with additives should be applied once a day, and from day 7 to day 10, slightly increase the number of effects to two - in the morning and in the evening;
• with normal skin, apply the product twice a day, but if the skin begins to peel off, then the number of procedures should be reduced to one;
• for dry skin of the face, the drug is used once a day throughout the entire stage of preparation for dry cleaning.

2 days before the procedure, it is necessary to apply the main agent that is planned to be used for peeling on the hand at the place of the elbow bend - if itching, burning or swelling develops, then this can be considered a sign of an allergic reaction to the agent. In this case, the concentration of the active component during the treatment should be taken to a minimum, or other cleaning options should be tried, for example, milk exfoliation.

Peeling is performed in the following sequence:

1. First, the face is cleansed, the remnants of decorative cosmetics, as well as traces of dust and dirt are removed - for this, lotions and gels are usually used.
2. Next, the skin is degreased. It is known that fat particles retain glycolic acid and do not allow it to enter the epidermis, so if you do not get rid of the fat, you will not have to expect any effect from the procedure. That is why, before peeling, the cosmetologist wipes the skin with a special degreasing tonic, paying special attention to all the mouths of the sebaceous streams.
3. Next, the beautician pours the active ingredient into a small container and, using cotton swabs, distributes it over the entire face. This must be done quickly so that the composition penetrates into the deep layers as evenly as possible. To prevent the patient from experiencing pain during deep and middle peeling, a stream of cold air is directed to her face, which relieves her condition.
4. After a few minutes, the acid composition is neutralized. Most often, saline is used for this. Its use stops the action of the acid and brings the pH back to a normal value, the disappearance of discomfort and burning sensation.
5. A special soothing mask is applied to the face, followed by a nourishing cream.

Some women do their own glycolic peels at home. Professional cosmetologists are categorically against independent manipulations with acid solutions, but the woman's desire to become more beautiful by spending a minimum of funds makes many to ignore such advice.

In this case, you should know how to properly conduct glycolic rejuvenation at home without harming your health and appearance.

Proceed in accordance with the following instructions:

• traces of cosmetics are removed, and the cleansed skin is covered with lotion;
• using a cotton swab, carefully apply the drug with a minimum concentration of fruit acid;
• after 5 minutes, take a cotton swab again, treat it with a neutralizer and rinse off the glycol composition:
• wash your face with cool water;
• apply an emollient cream.

During the recovery period, the skin requires special care for 7-40 days, depending on the depth of penetration of glycolic acid.

During the first week, you should limit your exposure to the sun, but if you still need to go outside, you must use sunscreen without fail, even if the peeling was carried out in winter. Otherwise, the likelihood of pigmentation is high.

For 10 days, you should not visit the sauna or bath, it is also better to refuse going to the solarium.

For at least 7 days, you need to forget about decorative cosmetics, and as a care product, use only those preparations prescribed by a cosmetologist, since they, as a rule, have an increased regenerating ability and stimulate a more active renewal of skin cells.

You should not play sports during this period, since high activity causes an increase in body temperature and a rush of blood to the skin, including the face.

It is very important: at the stage of skin healing, the skin is renewed, and this process is accompanied by severe peeling.In this case, the dead tissue is separated and hanging down, forming small crusts. Rip them off is not worth it under any circumstances. The most that can be done is to carefully cut them off with nail scissors.

When working with any chemical substances in the cosmetic industry, it is extremely important to use products from reliable manufacturers, the quality of which is beyond doubt. Let's give a small overview of the most popular tools.

"New Line" is a Russian peeling created by the "Cora" company.

The assortment list includes several options for preparations containing glycolic acid.

• Raspberry peeling is used for problem skin prone to acne. Under the action of the drug, bonds between dead skin cells are weakened, which leads to exfoliation of the dead layer and the launch of regenerative processes that stimulate the active appearance of new cells. The content of glycolic acid in this peeling is 26%, pH is 2.3.
• Cranberry peels are used to combat age-related skin changes, including photoaging and hyperkeratosis. The concentration of the active ingredient is 40%, the pH is 2.3. Peeling is used for medium and deep cleaning only under the supervision of a cosmetologist.
• Lingonberry peeling is recommended for effective rejuvenation on dry skin. This medication can be used at any time of the year, but in the summer its use should be accompanied by the use of sunscreen during the recovery phase.

Glycolicpeel Whitening is another Russian brand that produces peels that are widely used to slow down the aging process, rejuvenate and improve the condition of skin prone to excessive pigmentation.

The Spanish brand NEOpeel has also created an excellent range of aggressive peeling products based on fruit acids. Depending on the type of product, the concentration of glycolic acid in it can be from 20 to 70%, and the pH varies between 1.5-3.3.

Glycilic cosmetics are optimal for effectively combating aging processes; they are most often used on mature skin with clear signs of age-related changes.

Allura Esthetics is a peeling that actively resists natural aging, and in addition, eliminates hyperpigmentation, reduces the severity of scars and stretch marks. This drug fights well against any unaesthetic effects of acne and stimulates the synthesis of collagen fibers.

Tockani Cosmetics Premium is a glycolic acid peel that not only effectively removes the top layers of the skin, but also increases the production of elastin fibers.

The preparations "Belita", Caudalie and products with chitosan have proven themselves well.

Despite the fact that the use of glycolic peels is considered a relatively safe procedure, as evidenced by reviews, in some situations complications may appear. Let us dwell in more detail on the problems and negative consequences of cleaning and their causes.

A burn of 1 or 2 degrees often occurs if the concentration of the drug is chosen illiterately or if the duration of the procedure was overestimated. In this case, there is a burning sensation and painful sensations appear. You should immediately apply a neutralizer and wash your face abundantly with cool water, then apply an anti-burn agent and wait for full recovery.

Pigmentation can be the result of violations of the rules established for the recovery period - exposure to the sun, swimming pools and saunas, as well as solariums, improperly selected care products.It is easier to prevent the occurrence of such an unaesthetic effect, it is much more problematic to get rid of it.

A rash can be the result of an allergy to the main component of the drug. That is why it is very important to carry out a skin test before starting the procedures. In any case, if irritation develops, you should consult a specialist, but if the reaction to peeling is accompanied by swelling and shortness of breath, you should immediately call an ambulance.

Excessive dryness is a common consequence. In this case, it makes sense to visit a beautician who will prescribe more effective moisturizing care products.

For information on how the glycolic peeling procedure is performed, see the next video.