Chemical peeling: when and how can it be done?

The very term "peeling" means "scrape". Thanks to him, keratinized and dead cells are removed from the skin, and the process of restoration and rejuvenation of the skin is also underway. This procedure can be carried out on any part of the body that needs it.

Peeling cleanses the skin. Due to the fact that dead cells are removed from the surface, new ones grow faster, the skin becomes healthier and smoother. You can peel with a laser, mechanical, chemical method.

One of the most common skin rejuvenation methods is chemical peeling. It effectively fights surface irregularities, eliminates traces of acne and post-acne, age spots, corrects wrinkles and much more, in a word, allows the fair sex (and sometimes the stronger half of humanity) to look young as long as possible.

The essence of any type of chemical peeling is that the skin is exposed to various formulations based on acids in different concentrations. These drugs can not only cleanse the skin of traces of acne or wrinkles, but also prevent their appearance in the future.

Taking into account the seriousness of the procedure, it is advisable to undergo it in a clinic with a good reputation with a qualified cosmetologist.

Fans of this procedure will name a lot of its advantages.

Among them are such as:

• The skin is cleansed of the stratum corneum.Thanks to the acids included in the peeling, dead cells of the epidermis soften and are easily removed. As a result, the complexion improves, and its relief becomes much smoother.
• The sebaceous glands begin to work better. Because of this, chemical peels are indicated for people with oily skin. Acid-based formulations cleanse sebum from the sebaceous glands, normalize its production and tighten pores. This makes the skin smoother and the acne goes away.
• Due to the renewal of the upper layer of the skin, a rejuvenating effect is achieved, and wrinkles are smoothed out. During the recovery period, the skin intensively produces collagen and elastin, due to which it becomes more firm and elastic. This is how mimic wrinkles are corrected.
• Healing of other skin defects. In addition to the above, chemical peels are often used to remove scars, scars and acne. In addition, it is effective for getting rid of hyperpigmentation foci. This is due to the fact that the upper layers of the epidermis, after cleansing with acids during the renewal process, produce the pigment melanin.

If you strictly follow the protocol of the procedure and do not apply peeling to those people for whom it is contraindicated, negative consequences are excluded.

The disadvantages of the procedure include the following:

• Discomfort during the session. Even the smallest concentration of acid can burn, tingle or tingle the skin.
• Redness is a mandatory skin reaction to peeling. The duration of redness is individual, it can last from several hours to two to three weeks.
• Burns and crusting on the face. As a rule, this is an individual skin reaction. Requires close supervision of a cosmetologist and receiving recommendations for proper skin care at this time.
• Peeling is a natural reaction of the skin to the action of acids. This cannot be avoided, this is how the peeling "works". You should constantly use moisturizers recommended by your beautician.
• The sensitivity of the skin to the action of sunlight increases. Therefore, you should avoid exposure to the sun without a wide-brimmed hat, and in the period from noon to 4 pm, try not to be outside during periods of solar activity at all.

However, there is such a thing as post-peeling reaction.

It includes the following consequences:

• swelling of the face;
• hyperpigmentation;
• the appearance of blisters;
• exacerbation of herpes (if the virus is present in the body);
• itching, burning of the skin;
• chemical burn.

Chemical peeling is divided into three groups according to the degree of how powerful acids act on the skin:

• surface;
• median;
• deep.

Often this type of peel is used in combination with other, more powerful types to prolong and strengthen its effect.

Median type peeling acts on the epidermis - a layer that is affected by deep scars or wrinkles. This type of peeling is suitable for use at any age, even a young one.

As for deep peeling, this is the most radical effect on the skin, because it is when using this type of acids that all layers of the epidermis are treated.

Let's dwell on the most popular types of surface peeling.

Peeling based on mandelic acid, obtained from the seed of the corresponding plant, acts slowly, since it is very soft in structure. It can be used even in spring and summer when the sun is active. There are no contraindications to its use.

Peeling based on glycolic acid acts in a different way: the molecules penetrate the skin quickly and easily, providing a lasting effect of the procedure. This type of peeling is suitable for all skin types, except for very dark skin. It is ineffective for women over 50.Glycolic peels are subject to all standard procedure restrictions. You cannot do it in the summer.

This success provides the ability to fight inflammation, which, in turn, makes the skin even and uniform. Salicylic acid is an excellent remedy for acne, and not only for treatment, but also to prevent it from occurring in the future. Do not combine peeling based on this acid with zinc oxide.

Peeling can be carried out on any type of skin, but there is a classification for them (types):

• The skin of the first type is characterized by the absence of deep and mimic wrinkles. It is recommended to carry out a superficial peeling three times per year to prevent the appearance of signs of aging.
• The second type of skin is characterized by the presence of mimic wrinkles in the corners of the eyes at rest and deep - when emotions (laughter, smile, tears) are manifested. There are also small age spots. For this type of skin, fruit acids and a course of seven procedures are suitable. Cosmetologists recommend repeating it once every six months.
• People with the third type of skin have wrinkles around the eyes, mouth, and on the forehead at rest, in addition, impaired skin pigmentation. For representatives of the third skin type, a combination of superficial peeling using fruit acids with a medium peeling using trichloroacetic acid is recommended. It is necessary to do the procedures regularly, the frequency is set by the beautician, depending on the condition of the skin.
• The fourth type is characterized by the presence of deep and multiple wrinkles, as well as an uneven surface and flaccid skin turgor. The pigmentation is disturbed. As a rule, peeling with trichloacetic acid is prescribed for correction (at least three procedures), then peels with glycolic acid are prescribed. This should be done only after consultation with a dermatologist and his supervision after each procedure.

The most difficult to correct (for obvious reasons) type 4 skin, however, you can achieve a visible result with it. Of course, at the age of 60, no peeling will give the opportunity to look either 20 or 30, but it is quite possible to maintain the appearance and tone of the skin in a decent and well-groomed condition.

Any medical and cosmetic procedure has indications for use, and chemical peeling is no exception.

Age indications are as follows:

• people under 25 years old with the help of chemical peeling get rid of acne, acne, skin imperfections, and also treat molluscum contagiosum;
• clients from 25 to 30 years old treat problem skin, post-acne, age spots, actinic dermatitis, and also carry out prevention of early skin aging;
• persons over 30 years old get rid of age spots, keratosis, correct wrinkles, folds, remove warts and papillomas, and also prepare the skin for plastic surgery on it.

Acid peeling sessions are shown:

• persons wishing to rejuvenate the skin, get rid of photoaging and correct age-related changes;
• people with foci of hyperpigmentation on the face of various origins: freckles, chloasma, melasma or lentigo;
• persons suffering from acne and acne, as well as rosacea (here you need to make a reservation that peeling is possible only if the acne is pink, that is, not inflamed);
• improvement of skin relief, narrowing of pores, leveling of tone.

In addition, peeling can be a preparation for laser rejuvenation and photorejuvenation procedures.

One should not think that only the face can be subjected to chemical peeling, although most often it is it that is treated with acids.

The areas of the body on which this procedure can be effectively carried out are:

• hands in the area of ​​the hands;
• neck and décolleté;
• areas of the body that have scars, papillomas, age spots, stretch marks or acne.

For the skin of the body, the most suitable type of peeling is the middle one, since the superficial one will often no longer solve the problems that the client has. Well, to get rid of stretch marks, middle peeling is the best solution and obvious benefit.

There are two absolute obstacles to this cosmetic procedure: high sensitivity of the skin and the presence of an allergic reaction to the components of the peeling.

Also, you do not need to combine this procedure with the intake of substances that increase the sensitivity of the skin to the effects of sunlight - astakstantin, estrogen, antibiotics based on tetracycline, retinoids, antipsychotics, since the risk of dark spots appearing on freshly peeled skin increases.

Chemical peels are contraindicated in women during pregnancy and in nursing mothers. Also, the procedure is not performed for persons suffering from infectious and viral skin diseases, diabetes mellitus, systemic diseases in the acute stage, hypertension, coronary heart disease, as well as oncology of all types.

Peeling is also prohibited:

• if there are neoplasms of any type;
• if there are papillomas on the skin;
• when the skin is damaged or irritated;
• the skin is affected by active herpes;

• if the skin has increased reactivity and sensitivity;
• if there is an allergic reaction to the components of the peeling;
• if acne has worsened;
• if you recently received radiation therapy or used the drug "Roaccutane".

It is best to carry out procedures in the fall, when solar activity is declining. During the period of strong exposure to direct UV rays, the skin will recover for a long time after being destroyed by acids, which is why late spring and summer are not the best time for these procedures.

The most widespread constituents of chemical peels are alpha hydroxy acids (AHA), beta hydroxy acids (BHA), retinoic and trichloroacetic acids.

Hydroxy acids are divided into alpha and beta hydroxy acids. The first ones are used in superficial peeling. This type of acid includes glycolic and fruit acids - citric, tartaric, malic, and lactic.

As for the formulations based on beta hydroxy acids, they are more suitable for people with oily and / or sensitive skin suffering from acne or acne. The well-known salicylic acid belongs to betahydroxyacids. Beta hydroxy acids penetrate deeper into the skin pores than alpha analogues. Therefore, they can be used in a less concentrated form. The properties of salicylic acid, in addition to the exfoliating properties, are antiseptic, it also dries up inflammation and is fat-soluble.

Trichloroacetic acid most often used in a concentration of 25 to 30% for a mid-peel. If you take this acid at a concentration of 40%, it can be used in deep peeling. Often, preparations based on it are called blue peeling because of their color.

Another "color" peeling is yellow. It is composed of a mixture of retinaldehyde, vitamin C and acids.First, the face is "prepared" with a 20 percent glycolic acid preparation. Next, a peeling with retinoids is applied. Kojic and phytic acids remove age spots, azelaic, in turn, regulates the degree of oily skin and fights free radicals. Collagen production is accelerated by vitamin C, while retinoic acid controls sebum secretion.

Despite the complex composition, chemical peels can be done at home. It is important to observe the sequence of actions and the formulation of the drug.

For chemical peeling, three compositions are independently suitable: based on fruit acids, lactic and almond.

Recipes for home chemical peels:

• Using aspirin. You will need 3 tablets of the drug, they must be thoroughly crushed and mixed with 0.5 tsp of pure water. After mixing and the formation of gruel, add a teaspoon of natural (not whipped) honey. The mixture should be infused for 10 minutes, after which it is applied in a circular motion to a previously cleansed face, avoiding the area around the eyes. You need to keep the composition for 5 minutes, then do a light massage lasting about one and a half minutes. The mixture is thoroughly washed off with plenty of warm water.
• Composition with sodium chloride, or, more simply, with table salt. One teaspoon of salt should be mixed with a tablespoon of 20% sour cream. The face should be clean and steamed. The mixture is applied to the skin with a cotton pad or ball, massaged for two minutes and washed off. The last rinse should be with cool water. After it, you must definitely apply a rich nourishing cream.

• Another simple procedure is one ampoule of calcium chloride "Hammered" into the face (applied in layers, waiting for the previous one to dry). 5-6 layers are enough. After that, the fingertips are lathered with baby soap and the skin is massaged until it begins to roll into small lumps. As a rule, the formation of pellets is accompanied by a characteristic squeaking sound. Remains of calcium chloride are removed with a damp cloth or disc, after which a nourishing cream or mask is applied.

• Peeling based on salicylic acid. To do this, you need acid at a concentration of 15-20%. It is applied with a cotton pad or swab to a clean face, it must be kept for about 20 minutes (no longer). After the specified time, the acid is washed off with plenty of cool water.

• To prepare activated carbon composition, you will need charcoal, water and gelatin in crystals. Crystallized gelatin is diluted in three tablespoons of warm water and mixed with half a coal tablet, previously crushed. The specified composition is applied with a brush to a clean face. When the mixture is dry, the film is removed from the face.
• Peeling based on retinol ("yellow"). This peel should not be confused with retinoic acid, which is based on the appropriately named acid. As for retinol, it consists mainly of vitamin A, there are no acids in it, therefore it is much softer. As for the more aggressive peeling with retinoic acid, it is not recommended to do it at home, since the supervision of a cosmetologist is necessary.

You can also use ready-made preparations, a huge number of which are now on sale. These are the Ordinary acid-based products popular among beauty bloggers, cosmeceuticals (both economy class and luxury class), and Asian products. Products contain both alpha hydroxy acids (AHA) and beta hydroxy acids (BHA).

Each tool has instructions on how and when to use it. Having decided to do the peeling yourself at home, you must strictly follow the specified sequence of actions.

If the skin is hypersensitive and prone to irritation and rashes, it is better to opt for polyhydroxy acids (PHA): lactobionic and gluconolactone. They are similar in composition to ANA, but have a softer effect on the skin.

Anesthesia is not often needed for a peeling session, but the composition can cause a slight burning sensation. The deeper the exfoliation is done, the stronger the sensation. Therefore, median peeling is carried out after a person has taken an analgesic and tranquilizer, and if the pain threshold is low, local anesthesia can be used.

As for deep peeling, it is carried out exclusively under general anesthesia. The procedure is attended not only by a professional dermatologist-cosmetologist, but also by a plastic surgeon, as well as an anesthesiologist who monitors the patient's condition.

At the beginning of the procedure, the skin is treated with a composition either based on alcohol or containing acetone. Thus, it is degreased. They also provide eye protection to prevent acids from entering them. After that, the peeling mixture is applied directly. After the allotted time, the solution is carefully removed, and protective and moisturizing preparations are applied to the skin.

Unfortunately, unpleasant effects of peeling are possible. These include:

• Soreness of the skin of the face. It is most often felt after a median or deep peel and lasts 3-5 hours.
• Redness of the skin. It depends on the depth of the peel. Superficial peels cause slight redness for several days, while middle and especially deep - intense red complexion lasting up to 30 days.
• Itching of the skin, the face is very flaky. Usually superficial peeling does not give such "side effects", but individual characteristics of the skin can cause peeling after it.
• Allergy to peeling is not common, especially if an allergy test was performed on the bend of the elbow before the session. But in order to avoid undesirable consequences, if a person is allergic to anything, it is better to take antihistamines before and after the procedure.

In addition to the usual consequences, chemical peels can cause a number of complications:

• A chemical burn is theoretically possible with a median or deep peel. It comes from the wrong choice of the composition, the incorrectly calculated duration of the procedure. To minimize the risk of burns, median and deep peels are best done by a beautician with a medical education.
• Folliculitis or acne occurs if moisturizing and emollient creams that are unsuitable for the skin type are used after the procedure. To get rid of acne, you will need to take a course of antibiotics.
• Infection - bacterial or fungus. This complication is very rare, but leads to scarring. Superficial peeling does not cause such complications. Before carrying out the procedure, it is necessary to find out what equipment and in what conditions it will be performed.

• An increase in herpes most often occurs if a person who has the human papillomavirus in the presence does not mention this to the doctor and, as a result, does not take prescribed antiviral drugs or immunostimulants before, after and during the procedure.
• The appearance of age spots is usually temporary, but in some cases the spots persist for up to 2 years. They are treated with hydroquinone or other similar agents.
• The loss of pigmentation in individuals with dark skin can persist throughout life.
• Asterisks of blood vessels. In another way, this phenomenon is called telangiectasia. Most often they become noticeable at the end of the peeling. They are removed using laser therapy.

• The demarcation line appears after a median or deep peel and marks the border between the area where the peel was carried out and where it was not.
• Scars are an extremely rare complication. Constant itching combined with redness of the skin can become their harbingers.

Medium and deep peels are performed only by dermatologists. When choosing a salon or clinic, you should pay attention not only to the reputation of the institution, but also to the qualifications of the master you are planning to contact.

At least 7 days should elapse between treatments. It is important to remember that rehabilitation after one peeling session can take several hours or several weeks. It is necessary to provide for this and, if possible, limit access to fresh air.

After the procedure, the face acquires a red tint, this should not be scared. To avoid irritation and rashes, you need to strictly follow the instructions of the cosmetologist both before and after the peeling: use a protective cream and moisturize the skin on an ongoing basis. If you decide to replace the cream with a similar one, it is better to consult with the specialist who performed the procedure about this: is it possible to change the funds, what can be considered analogs, whether there will be an effect from the replacement - all these questions should be asked to the doctor before doing anything.

Before the procedure, you need to test your skin for allergies: apply a small amount of the drug of the same concentration that you plan to work on on the back of the hand or the bend of the elbow, hold for about ten minutes, then rinse thoroughly and examine the skin for reactions.

Before visiting a beauty salon, you need to bring your physical condition back to normal. You should have a normal body temperature, working pressure, and no signs of colds or skin diseases.

If the skin is unhealthy, peeling should not be done! Only acne is an indication for the use of acid-based preparations, any other rashes or wounds on the face are a ban on the peeling procedure.

It is important to remember that all chronic diseases, the presence of which you did not tell the beautician, and the consequences associated with this, are not his fault.

The dermatologist makes a decision on the possibility or impossibility of carrying out the peeling procedure on the basis of the information received from the client, and the more complete it is, the better, first of all, for the client himself.

If peeling is recommended once a year, it is better to do it in October or November, but if it is necessary to carry out the procedure twice a year, the optimal time for re-peeling is March.

The basic rule of any peeling: the composition should not burn the skin and should not cause pain. If a feeling of severe discomfort appears on the skin, the skin "bakes", it "burns", you need to rinse your face with cool water in large quantities as soon as possible and immediately apply creams with moisturizing and soothing effects.

At the end of the peeling procedure, you need to make sure that not a drop of the composition is left on the face.Even a small amount of an acidic mixture can be irritating and uncomfortable.

As a rule, women are more willing to try superficial peels, respectively, and there are more reviews about it. Since this is the least traumatic type of peeling, and the skin after it recovers faster, the fair sex, who tried this procedure, note an improvement in facial relief, skin quality, narrowing of pores and getting rid of fine wrinkles.

In addition, a tangible advantage of surface peeling is the fact that preparations with such properties are sold ready-made, and, without the desire to visit a beautician, you can buy a miracle remedy and arrange a beauty salon at home.

You can learn more about chemical peeling in this video.