How to clean fur at home?

Fur things, be it a fur coat or a collar, are cozy and attractive, they warm us in the cold season, give joyful emotions, decorate and allow every girl to feel irresistible. In the days of our grandmothers, luxurious fur products did not lose their luster for years, however, in a modern city, the fur gets dirty very quickly, which is associated with a complex ecology and the presence of a mass of impurities in the air. Fur that has lost its appearance can be dry-cleaned or cleaned at home.

Cleaning the fur is necessary in order to rid natural fibers of abrasives (dust and dirt) that settle on them and are absorbed into the natural oils that cover every lint. At the same time, the prolonged presence of contamination can lead to abrasion of the fur and truly disastrous results in the form of bald patches and bald patches. That is why furriers recommend cleaning the fur at least once a year, preferably in the summer when things are not in demand for wearing.

In cases where the owner of the fur smokes, it is worth cleaning the fur in the middle of the winter season. Regular cleaning with proper methods and proper care can really help extend the life of your fur garment.

Exactly how you can clean fur at home depends largely on its type and category. The product can be made of smooth or fluffy fur, for example, a fur coat is made of seals or mink. Accordingly, the methods of cleaning such things will differ. Among furs, long-haired furs are distinguished, for example. raccoon, silver fox, red fox, lynx and arctic fox, which require a slightly different approach to reading than short-haired fur, such as mink or beaver.

Some experienced housewives recommend cleaning fur products with ammonia or hydrogen peroxide. Perhaps, in the days of our grandmothers, these funds were quite effective, but in modern conditions they are ineffective, since the chemical composition of mud in the modern urbanized world is becoming richer day by day.

Means for making furs are also changing, for this they use strong enough emulsions, which partially remain in the finished product and can enter into a chemical reaction with ammonia and peroxide, making the pile dry and brittle.

This method is to cover very dirty fur with a lot of salt (up to a kilogram of this substance can go to a fur coat). Then the product is left for 12 hours, after which it is carefully knocked out. Together with the salt, dirt and debris accumulated in the fur leaves. This method is simple and cheap and, at least, is not capable of harming a fur product. But it will not help return the original shine to the fur coat, although it will make it cleaner.

Experts do not advise experimenting with various complex home-made compositions and recommend using either certified preparations or shampoos intended for humans or animals for cleaning and caring for expensive fur.

Today, in our country, the most famous is the cosmetics for the care of fur, which is called Biofur. These preparations are positioned by the manufacturer as gentle and hypoallergenic products for the care and cleaning of natural furs.

Biofur can affect all kinds of dirt, from street dirt to tough stains such as blood or egg yolk marks. Also Biofur eliminates unpleasant odor, oily sheen and grease. This tool is suitable for all furs, including such expensive ones as sable or chinchilla fur, but it has a rather high price tag. The volume of the purchased bottles is sufficient for cleaning a demi mink coat.

The Biofur kit includes 3 cleaning emulsions:

1. Foam for cleaning especially dirty stains;
2. Medium intensity cleaner;
3. Restorer of fur.

The set also contains a brush for processing fur, comb, terry cloth, gloves and oilcloth.

How to clean fur with Biofur:

• Particularly strong stains are treated with foam soap, which is applied to stains with a brush; at the same time, do not rub too hard, so as not to destroy the structure of the pile;
• Leave the product for 2-3 minutes for exposure, then rinse it off with a damp cloth, while not allowing it to get wet to the flesh;
• The entire surface of the fur coat is cleaned by spraying a cleaner, while maintaining a distance of 15 cm from the surface of the fur;
• Leave the sprayed agent for 30 minutes for exposure, then rinse it off with a damp terry cloth, preventing the flesh from getting wet, because in this case it may shrink with further drying;

• After cleaning, the fur coat should either be spread out on a flat surface or hung on a mannequin; the use of a hair dryer in order to accelerate the drying process is strictly prohibited, as it will lead to deformation of the product.
• During drying, the fur should be shaken and combed as often as possible with the comb supplied in the kit.
• Fully dried fur is treated with a spray that restores its shine, after application it is left for about 3 minutes, then removed with a damp cloth and the fur coat is dried again.

The following tools will help you quickly and correctly clean a fur product:

1. Cleansing emulsion Netbril-o concentrated (France);
2. Means Shine-finish / TCHB / TCHB / Parva-cremie (Germany).

Emulsion Netbril-o concentrated has a cost of 1290 rubles, the volume of the bottle is 250 ml... To use it you should:

1. Dilute with alcohol in a ratio of 1/3, it is best to do this in a blender.
2. Apply to fur with a sponge.
3. Leave the thing to dry in a straightened state, remembering to shake it from time to time.

Shine-finish / TCHB / TCHB / Parva-cremie Designed for quick cleaning of moderately soiled furs. In addition to cleaning, this agent is recommended to be applied as a topcoat that protects the fur fibers from the adhesion of dirt, grease and moisture.

In addition, the Shine-Finish / TCHB / TCHB / Parva-cremie emulsion can be used as an antistatic agent for fur with long hair, such as raccoon, silver fox or lynx fur. The cost of 250 ml is 1,300 rubles.

The use of this tool is quite within the power of any girl:

1. The emulsion is applied to the fur with a spray bottle;
2. The exposure time is 10 seconds;
3. The fur is combed against the pile;
4. The product is thoroughly shaken and hung out to dry on bulky hangers.

In the event that the fur thing has strong dirt and greasy stains, dry cleaning with sawdust will help. However, do not use regular sawdust that can be purchased from a construction sawmill. To clean fur, special types of wood are required that do not emit sap, let alone resins, and have a soft texture that cannot damage the fur. Such sawdust, for example, Eco or Topper Clean, can be purchased for 750 rubles. The weight of one package of such sawdust is 400 g, which is enough for several cleaning procedures.

Mode of application:

1. It is necessary to soak the sawdust with Netbril-o Concentrated, trying to create a soft, but not runny, slurry;
2. The resulting product is rubbed into the fur, especially dirty places are rubbed several times;
3. The maximum exposure time is 30 minutes, after which the sawdust must be removed by carefully shaking out the product;
4. The damp product is laid out on a flat surface or hung on a mannequin to dry naturally;
5. During the drying process, the fur is combed and shaken to give it an attractive appearance.

The easiest to clean are furs of a small format, for example, a fur pom-pom on a hat, which does not require any special treatment at all. It does not even need to be stripped from the cap when washing, naturally, in the case when washing is done by hand.

For the best result it is worth using gel detergent. It is best to dry such a hat on a three-liter glass jar, turning it upside down so that the wool does not deform. It is not recommended to wash in a washing machine, as in this case the product will inevitably stretch and lose volume.

A small fur insert that attaches to the lapel of a down jacket or jacket can also be hand washed at home using a wool gel, such as a brand "Laska" or zoo shampoo. It is important to squeeze the fur strip well after each wash and rinse. This can be done by rolling it up with a tube and then squeezing it out with your hands.

You can also squeeze out a similar insert in the washing machine, having previously rolled it into some bulky material, for example, an old towel. In this case, when wringing, moisture will pass from the fur to the fabric, as a result, the fur will dry faster.

To dry, the fur must be straightened, gently combed, laid on a soft base and shaken periodically all the time while it dries. The resulting fur edge may have a slightly stiff flesh (in the event that it was not well dressed), but this can be corrected by pressing it with your fingers until it is soft.

It is not recommended to wash furs of a larger volume in the literal sense of the word. It must be remembered that it is impossible to wring out large products made of natural fur in a washing machine due to the danger of their deformation. And when the wet base of fur (flesh) dries out naturally, it most often becomes similar to cardboard paper, that is, it acquires rigidity and fragility. As a wash, you can apply a foam shampoo to the surface, taking the utmost care not to get the skin wet.

Often, fairly well-preserved light-colored fur loses its attractiveness from the fact that it begins to turn yellow. This is typical for the fur of the Arctic fox, lynx and silver fox, as well as the bleached fur of the mink. To eliminate such unpleasant manifestations, you can use a repair agent from the Biofur series. The manufacturer recommends processing with this reducing agent. every three monthswithout waiting for yellowness to appear on the product.

In the event that the light fur has already turned yellow, a remedy such as Magic Snow can help. With its help, it will be possible to renew the white fur of a polar fox, mink or light tips on the fur of a silver fox. Its application is very simple and does not cause any difficulties.

Mode of application:

1. Combine the product with a solution of hydrogen peroxide 1 to 4, mix thoroughly, creating a homogeneous consistency;
2. Hang the fur product on a hanger or lay it out on the table if the collar is being processed;
3. Using a spray bottle, spray the composition onto the yellowed fur;
4. Leave to dry completely by combing the fur and shaking from time to time.

In order for a fur product not to lose its visual appeal for a long time, you need to properly care for it. This is especially true of those cases when a fur coat or collar fell under wet snow and began to look unattractive due to the stuck pile.

In this case, it is necessary to shake the fur well immediately upon returning home to remove wet drops. Then it should be combed with a special brush or a comb with rare teeth and left on a hanger, not placed in a cabinet until it dries completely. From time to time, you need to shake the fur and comb again. Thanks to this, the fur coat will dry without creases, bumps and deformation.

For information on how to care for fur, see the next video.