Keratin hair curling: features, compositions and technology

One of the most modern, effective and at the same time gentle ways of long-term hair curling is the use of technology based on the effects of keratin. Thanks to the keratin perm, you can not only create a new, bright and playful look, but also heal your hair.

Beautiful curly hair is perhaps the dream of many girls. However, not everyone is given silky curls by nature, so the fair sex is forced to resort to all kinds of tools for winding the strands.

Therefore, stylists have created a permanent chemistry perm. But she also did not become an ideal solution to the problem - such processing greatly overdried and spoiled the curls, and the technique was not suitable for every type of appearance. Cold curling slightly expanded the possibilities of forming tight curls - it did much less harm to the hair, but, unfortunately, not every hair could be curled in this way.

Only after scientists disassembled human hair into separate components and identified several active amino acids, gentle curling has become possible even for the most weakened and discolored curls.

For curling curls, keratin of animal or vegetable origin is taken. The first is obtained from the wool of a goat - it is believed that it is as close as possible to human hair in its structure. It is from it that animal keratin is obtained. The principle of operation is simple here. Keratin from goat hair under the influence of chemicals breaks down into 18 amino acids, and the one in the hair of people - by 19. Due to the lack of one amino acid, compositions based on analog keratin are not permanently included in the structure of human hair, but only for up to six months , and then their gradual washing out begins.

Keratin, synthesized from the plant, contains only 12 amino acids, therefore such a wrap on the hair lasts no more than 2-3 months.

The peculiarities of curling and, accordingly, the cost of services largely depends on the type of keratin used: the technique on a herbal preparation is cheaper, and on a protein one - more expensive.

Keratin perm has its own advantages and disadvantages.

The main advantage of the drug is its harmlessness. Keratin does not contain any toxic substances, therefore it is completely safe for the life and health of women.

Another advantage of such chemistry is its smooth convergence, the curls straighten gradually, thanks to this, the difference between the curled part and the regrown hair is almost invisible.

The keratin perm is versatile - it can be used for any hair type.

Other benefits include:

• creating curls of various sizes;
• the ability to do the procedure quite often - up to 4 times a year;
• filling all damaged areas of the hair shaft with keratin, as a result, the strands look healthier, shiny and silky;
• you can do it both in a hairdressing salon and at home on your own;
• curls look natural.

Despite the fact that the composition acts quite sparingly, perm perfectly holds its shape and therefore is optimal for texturing individual strands, and thanks to the use of styling products, you can create the most interesting and effective styling.

There are few disadvantages of this kind of perm - it is a short duration of exposure, as well as a rather high cost of services in hairdressing salons.

It should be noted that keratin perm has its own contraindications. Certain categories of clients should refrain from using this technique.

• Persons under the age of 18. The fact is that the hair shafts of adolescents are not fully formed, and the scaly layer cannot hold the active drugs for a long time. Therefore, the perm will not last long.
• Women in the period of hormonal imbalance: expectant and lactating mothers, as well as during menstruation and with diseases of the endocrine system. In all these cases, as the reviews show, the result of the chemistry will be unpredictable - the perm may turn out to be less intense than necessary, or the hair may not curl at all. In addition, overdrying of curls and an increase in their fragility is possible.
• It is necessary to refrain from a beautiful curling with an individual intolerance to the composition, which is why a test must be carried out before any exposure. To do this, a little ready-made solution is applied to the skin of the wrist, as well as to a small strand, and the reaction is monitored for 15-20 minutes. Any manifestations of allergies (painful sensations, swelling, swelling, redness or rash), as well as blackening of the hair, will signal that the use of the drug should be abandoned.

For keratin curling, several types of drugs are used:

• alkaline - these compositions are optimal for women with gray and hard curls;
• exothermic - allow to curl damaged and colored strands;
• acidic - are used for light or too thin hair.

With alkaline perm, complex disulfide bonds are formed due to the entry of amino acids in the hair into a chemical reaction with similar elements in the active solution.

Exothermic curling solutions include keratin as well as fibroin, they form peptide chains, thereby forming disulfide bonds. When in contact with sulfur under the influence of oxygen, they begin to generate a lot of heat, and thus a resilient curl is formed. This perm is referred to as a permanent technique, since in this case the desired result is achieved due to the release of heat.

Keratin perm allows you to create a wave of any shape and thickness. The most popular option is considered to be large curls for long hair, but here, too, some nuances are possible - depending on the structure of the shock, the presence of damage and natural features, curls can be smaller and larger... In practice, the variety of results is impressive: with keratin curls, you can make large structured curls or "beachy" natural curls, and curls can resemble the hair of Victoria's Secret models - the results are largely influenced by the shape of the bobbin and its size.

An important factor is the professionalism of the master. Many women note that if the curling was done correctly, the result lasts up to six months. But if the "wrong" curlers were used, a low-quality composition, or the technique of performing the curling itself was not followed with due precision, then you can rejoice in your hairstyle for a couple of months. That is why it is better to contact an experienced specialist who has extensive practice with hair of different types and will be able, taking into account all the features of the original hair and the client's wishes, to choose the optimal preparations, exposure time and method of applying the composition.

Now let's dwell on the procedure itself. It includes several stages.

Keratin perm always begins with a thorough shampoo, for this use special deep penetration shampoos. Such preparation contributes to the fullest disclosure of scales on each hair, due to which the keratin is fully absorbed.

After shampooing, the hair is lightly dried with a hairdryer and blotted with a waffle towel to get rid of excess moisture. After that, the curling itself begins. To begin with, all hair is divided into thin strands and each is abundantly smeared with keratin solution. The strands are processed starting from the back of the head towards the frontal.

After all the hair has been processed, you should wait 15-25 minutes, then proceed directly to the formation of curls.

This stage is quite difficult, here it is extremely important to twist the bobbins and fix them so as not to damage the structure of the curls. In beauty salons, for procedures using keratin, special devices are used, thanks to which the pinch does not touch the hair itself - this allows you to form perfectly smoothed and identical curls so that they literally lie “hair to hair”.

The processed strands are slightly dried with a hairdryer, but you do not need to completely dry them, they should remain slightly moisturized.

After all the strands are wound, it is necessary to wait for the time indicated in the instructions for the preparation, while you can slightly dry your hair with a hairdryer, but so that it remains slightly moist.

Next, the keratin abundantly applied to the hair is washed off, otherwise the strands will turn out to be too oily and heavy, the excess moisture is blotted out with a towel and a neutralizing solution is applied.

At the end of the exposure time, the hair is washed with water. without the use of shampoo and treated with a medicinal balm.

For information on how to make a keratin perm and root volume, see the next video.